Need Engine Gurus!!! - Page 6 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #76 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 11:31 PM
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From experience, its not too bad a job to drop the pan and start pulling bearings. If you're also thinking of pulling heads again, it may be better to just yank the motor and go through it again on a stand. It's a bummer but it'll be easier to inspect everything and clean the junk out. Aluminum in oil will appear as a golden color so it could be bearing material. Did you find a lot of material? Could be leftover machining junk if you didn't personally clean the block when you got it, or did you have the machine shop build the bottom? When I had my block machined they claimed to have cleaned it but I went through 3-4 cans of brake clean once I got it home just rinsing it out and the junk that came out of the oil galleys and such surely would have doomed my rebuild.
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post #77 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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From experience, its not too bad a job to drop the pan and start pulling bearings. If you're also thinking of pulling heads again, it may be better to just yank the motor and go through it again on a stand. It's a bummer but it'll be easier to inspect everything and clean the junk out. Aluminum in oil will appear as a golden color so it could be bearing material. Did you find a lot of material? Could be leftover machining junk if you didn't personally clean the block when you got it, or did you have the machine shop build the bottom? When I had my block machined they claimed to have cleaned it but I went through 3-4 cans of brake clean once I got it home just rinsing it out and the junk that came out of the oil galleys and such surely would have doomed my rebuild.

I didn't find too much, just some small flakes. I think I'm going to pull the pan and look at a few bearings. If they're bad, then I'll pull the engine. My dad's jeep is under the hoist and its engine is on the stand, so it may be a couple weeks before I can pull it if that's what I end up needing to do.
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post #78 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the thrust cap and one rod bearing. Rod bearing looked good. Thrust bearing looked like this:
What do you guys think? Mains too tight causing the bog when they heat up and expand? I believe they plastigauged at .0015" when I built it.
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post #79 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 03:45 PM
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Odd wear pattern.
Almost like something’s not straight or is out-of-round.

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post #80 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:27 PM
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When I pulled my mains after 2500 miles because I had a Piston issue, none of my bearings looked polished like that, they all mostly looked as they did when they came out of the box with some light marks. Seems to me you're probably out of spec there if that's what it looks like after as little run time as you have
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post #81 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:58 PM
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Odd wear pattern.
I would agree.

What rpm do you plan to spin that engine gikort? I ask because I've read "loose is fast" so I went with bearings that are .001" smaller on the mains putting me at .002" on them. My rod bearings are tighter at .0015". Not sure that would make any difference on the thrust bearing to what you are seeing though...

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post #82 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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That looks like they machined the mounting/bolt face flat but did not line bore the cap to get the overall diameter correct again.
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post #83 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:54 PM
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gikort,
You may have a situation where the ring grooves in the piston are not deep enough for the rings you are using. This would show by the rings sticking up above the side of the piston when the piston is held on it's side. IF the rings stick above the side of the piston , they WILL bind as the piston grows with heat and stop the engine from running. As soon as they cool enough , the engine will " start right up" until the heat causes the ring to bind again. You would be surprised how many guys have had this happen. After listening to all of the well meaning ideas others have given I feel confident this s what's happening to you.
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post #84 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:45 PM
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What about the thrust surface? That looks like something is going on too.

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post #85 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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I would agree.

What rpm do you plan to spin that engine gikort? I ask because I've read "loose is fast" so I went with bearings that are .001" smaller on the mains putting me at .002" on them. My rod bearings are tighter at .0015". Not sure that would make any difference on the thrust bearing to what you are seeing though...

Allen

Hey Allen, built to spin to 7kish. The wear is on the journal surface, not the thrust (no wear on the thrust). I plastigauged all of them between .0015 and .002 but something does not look right now.
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post #86 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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That looks like they machined the mounting/bolt face flat but did not line bore the cap to get the overall diameter correct again.

It was line honed, but something sure doesn't look right.
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post #87 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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What about the thrust surface? That looks like something is going on too.

That is why I pulled the thrust bearing to start with, but there isn't really any wear on the thrust surface at all (except a tiny little scuff on one side).
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post #88 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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gikort,
You may have a situation where the ring grooves in the piston are not deep enough for the rings you are using. This would show by the rings sticking up above the side of the piston when the piston is held on it's side. IF the rings stick above the side of the piston , they WILL bind as the piston grows with heat and stop the engine from running. As soon as they cool enough , the engine will " start right up" until the heat causes the ring to bind again. You would be surprised how many guys have had this happen. After listening to all of the well meaning ideas others have given I feel confident this s what's happening to you.
Randy

I want to think this isn't the case since the rings and pistons came as a kit, but it very well could be the cause. The main bearing has me wondering if that's not causing it however. I need to check the rest of the mains and see how they look still.
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post #89 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:20 PM
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Hey Allen, built to spin to 7kish. The wear is on the journal surface, not the thrust (no wear on the thrust). I plastigauged all of them between .0015 and .002 but something does not look right now.
Just as a clarification, I am talking about the thrust bearing and not just the part that you are calling the "thrust". I think most others are as well. We call it the thrust bearing because that's the name of that particular bearing. We all see the wear on the part that goes around the journal.

Hope this clears it up a bit. Still hoping you find the solution...

Allen

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