Export brace - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Export brace

So, as I'm assessing my car to try and formulate some plan on getting back into it (car is a freshly painted shell, dynomat insulation, new headliner, windshields, etc.). As I pull back the cover and stand admiring the nice job the Mopar place did I suddenly realize, "My export brace and Monte Carlo bar are not there". Yeah, I'm not the most observant I guess. I will go back and see if he has these lying around, but it's been years, so I'm not holding out much hope.

So, are there better or worse ones out there? Don't care about "correct" as much as I want a good one that will do it's job.

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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 12:12 PM
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Scott Drake one piece export and *ideally* a straight monte carlo bar.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:29 PM
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I have Scott Drake heavy duty . Had to use Monte Carlo with semi-circle for the air cleaner. they made a huge difference in handling and more solid on the road.
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by happystang View Post
Scott Drake one piece export and *ideally* a straight monte carlo bar.

I've actually heard that the curved ones are actually stronger due to the same engineering miracle that makes an egg such a perfect structure ;o))))))
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:02 AM
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I've actually heard that the curved ones are actually stronger due to the same engineering miracle that makes an egg such a perfect structure ;o))))))
Ut Oh. You just opened the flood gates. :-)

I did three things to strengthen and take the flex out of the front end. On my 64.5 D Code Coup. I used the Scott Drake heavy duty export brace. I used the curved Monte Carlo Bar to clear the air cleaner and I added switched to a 1" sway bar. While at it I did the Shelby/Arning Drop.

On my wife's 65 I6 200 Convertible I added the Scott Drake export brace and the 1" sway bar along with the Shelby Drop. I haven't added a Monte Carlo bar yet but will when I find one the fits with the I6 motor.

Last edited by tom991; 04-14-2019 at 08:07 AM.
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:32 AM
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Ut Oh. You just opened the flood gates. :-)



Yea, things are kinda boring this morning, thought I would spice things up...

I did three things to strengthen and take the flex out of the front end. On my 64.5 D Code Coup. I used the Scott Drake heavy duty export brace. I used the curved Monte Carlo Bar to clear the air cleaner and I added switched to a 1" sway bar. While at it I did the Shelby/Arning Drop.


One more thing left, Z ray type bar under the motor to replace the brace that is there. They tie the lower control arm mounts on either side together.


On my wife's 65 I6 200 Convertible I added the Scott Drake export brace and the 1" sway bar along with the Shelby Drop. I haven't added a Monte Carlo bar yet but will when I find one the fits with the I6 motor.

abc
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:54 AM
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I have the Shelby drop, and export brace, and a 1" sway bar. The car feels pretty good on the turns now but after reading all this I guess I'll get the curved Monte Carlo as well. That plus my planned new 15x7 wheels with 215/60 fronts and 225/60 rears should be fine.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies, even dobrostang because comedy is important. To clarify, I KNOW that the export brace and a straight Monte will stiffen up the front end (Monte, stiffen front end, there's probably some British humor there somewhere). I know this because I had a brace and bar in there before, along with the Arning drop, 1" front sway bar, midolyne bushings, 620 -1" coils, yada, yada. What I didn't realize until after about 1 year after getting my car back from complete bodywork and painting was that they are NO LONGER THERE. I hope he still has them lying around somewhere, but he's a Mopar restorer so he probably thinks they are trunk support parts or radio braces. I mainly was wondering if there was a stronger than stock version out there or if it was really worthwhile to go aftermarket. Triangulation is a thing you know....

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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:13 PM
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On the NPD website they link to a video with those two hammy guys. They install an export brace without removing the old brace mounts. Is that advisable? What are the odds that I'll have to push the shock towers out? Greater than 50/50?
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:23 PM
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On the NPD website they link to a video with those two hammy guys. They install an export brace without removing the old brace mounts. Is that advisable? What are the odds that I'll have to push the shock towers out? Greater than 50/50?
I put mine in without removing the old brace mounts. The new brace covers them up nicely. As far as the shock towers, you might try installing a Monte Carlo bar first. That should give you a good idea of how much your shock towers have flexed. Mine nearly dropped into place with just a little work to align the bolt holes.
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:12 PM
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On the NPD website they link to a video with those two hammy guys. They install an export brace without removing the old brace mounts. Is that advisable?
No, not advisable. Looks like hell, imho. super easy to drill out 3 or 4 spot welds and get rid of the useless appendages.


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Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
I've actually heard that the curved ones are actually stronger due to the same engineering miracle that makes an egg such a perfect structure ;o))))))

did you know that from inside the egg shell can be cracked with about 10% of the force needed to crack it from the outside in ? Otherwise the poor little chick could never get out.

Z
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Last edited by zray; 04-17-2019 at 05:14 PM.
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:20 PM
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On the NPD website they link to a video with those two hammy guys. They install an export brace without removing the old brace mounts. Is that advisable? What are the odds that I'll have to push the shock towers out? Greater than 50/50?
When I repainted my engine compartment, I took the time to remove the original mounts from the shock towers. It looks so much better.
Your shock towers may be fine right where they sit. I was curious as to how much movement I could get from my front end without the MC bar, so I slipped a short piece of pattern makers wax on the down flanges of each fender to fill the gap between fender and hood. I took the car out and found a parking lot where I could corner to the limits of my suspension and found that there was no crushing of the wax, which indicates that there was no movement. That test convinced me that I did not need a Monte Carlo bar for street/highway use my car will see. I do have the heavy gauge export brace.


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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:27 PM
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My '66 has an export brace installed and the original brace mounts in place. I agree that it looks bad. I'll be removing those when I pull the front end apart. One or the other, not half-arsed.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:48 PM
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When I repainted my engine compartment, I took the time to remove the original mounts from the shock towers. It looks so much better.
Your shock towers may be fine right where they sit. I was curious as to how much movement I could get from my front end without the MC bar, so I slipped a short piece of pattern makers wax on the down flanges of each fender to fill the gap between fender and hood. I took the car out and found a parking lot where I could corner to the limits of my suspension and found that there was no crushing of the wax, which indicates that there was no movement. That test convinced me that I did not need a Monte Carlo bar for street/highway use my car will see. I do have the heavy gauge export brace.
I would feel more confident about the results of your test if you had put some material at the top corner , not where there was already a gap. I don't think the MC bar, any MC bar, is going to smash any material down the side of the bracket. All the force is at the top where the bar angles around the Ford sheet metal, where the bar is already tight. Measuring extra pressure at that point is going to tell you something more usable, imho.

You could even just leave the bolts finger tight, and see if there were forces that smashed your improvised "plastiGauge" where it was getting all,the action.

Z
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:59 PM
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I would feel more confident about the results of your test if you had put some material at the top corner , not where there was already a gap. I don't think the MC bar, any MC bar, is going to smash any material down the side of the bracket. All the force is at the top where the bar angles around the Ford sheet metal, where the bar is already tight. Measuring extra pressure at that point is going to tell you something more usable, imho.

You could even just leave the bolts finger tight, and see if there were forces that smashed your improvised "plastiGauge" where it was getting all,the action.

Z
After swapping engines last year I did just this ^ I dropped a couple of really long bolts done through the top of my MCB whilst tuning and playing with the distributor , My car accepts a MCB very nicely but I could detect movement of the bar after driving with it just "pinned" in with long bolts from the top


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