Advice on brake pads - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Advice on brake pads

My GT has front disc brakes, and I have to really push the pedal hard to stop because the brakes do not really grab the rotors. The Calipers are working ok. I have not taken it apart yet. What have you found best for pads? I do not want metal specs floating around. What has your experience taught you?

Thanks for the info!!


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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:45 PM
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Organic Brakes pads I have found work the best without making noise and barely wear your brake rotors...though they may wear a bit faster than Semi-Metallic Pads, I have found them to be the best. Semi-Metallic Pads stop well, but wear the Rotors more and also make noise.

Pads with Kevlar I have tried also....I literally hated them... I had to be Superman in order to stop the brakes..and their Fade resistance was absolutely horrible.

Go for the Fully Organic Pads... That's my Advice.. and you'll be happy..

)

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:59 PM
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Ceramic pads work great, I ordered online and I got the front for 20.00
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:02 AM
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I am using organic D11 pads on my Kelsey Hayes / SSBC combo to save my rotors. They make a little dust but it washes off easily. If your rear brakes are drum and the springs are really old you may benefit from new hardware there, and if brake hoses are old, they swell and flex and can even burst. Beyond that, an adjustable proportioning valve can help balance your brakes. Manual brakes take more effort anyhow. There are aftermarket low profile boosters for disc/drum and disc/disc setups for those of us getting long in the tooth or just want that more modern squeeze.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:15 AM
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I switched from OEM to EBC redstuff 3000 ceramic pads. They are pricey but I could feel an improved of braking performance. No issues with noise or anything.
I personally would not go cheap on brake pads. It is an important component to stop your car.




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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:06 PM
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High-performance brake pads can help, but if you currently have to stand on your pedal to stop the car, your problem goes beyond pads.

I have non-power discs with factory style pads on my Mach 1 and stopping the car hard requires little effort. Even my old '69 Cougar with non-power drums all around was easy to stop.

You might wan't to check your brake system; master cylinder, distribution block, proportioning valve. And, are you certain the calipers are working perfectly?

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:27 PM
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65/66 stock front disc do take a bit more effort at the pedal. They do tend to be far easier to modulate and
control is far better than any drum setup (unless the drums were just maintenanced 5 seconds ago).

Like someone else said, don't cheap out on disc pads. The crap at the chain stores is just that.
I personally like Porterfield R4S pad and shoe material. There are EBC fans on here too...... I was never
bowled over with enthusiasm for them when I was in the brake industry though.

A good deal would be a ceramic, but I'm not aware of a true ceramic in a D11 puck. True ceramics dust
less and actually wear the rotors less because you have both friction and adhesion elements stopping
the rotor. Most brake material relies mainly on friction.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 01:38 PM
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Pushing really hard is relative so can't help with that. I run these Bendix ceramics on my 65 GT disc brake car. They function as one would expect with no drawbacks. Brian
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klutch View Post
High-performance brake pads can help, but if you currently have to stand on your pedal to stop the car, your problem goes beyond pads.

I have non-power discs with factory style pads on my Mach 1 and stopping the car hard requires little effort. Even my old '69 Cougar with non-power drums all around was easy to stop.

You might wan't to check your brake system; master cylinder, distribution block, proportioning valve. And, are you certain the calipers are working perfectly?
I rebuilt my front and rear brakes and had to stand on the pedal just to get the car to slow down from 15 mph. I used SSBC's slotted rotors up front and a stock drum setup on the rear. The front pads were a set of semi-metallic that came with the rotors. I adjusted the rear and re-bled the entire system and had no change.

I decided to put a set of EBC Yellow pads on the front, and the first time out, no changes other than the pads, I could lock up the front tires with about 1/2 the pressure I was previously using to try to stop the car.

I am not sure how they will affect the rotor wear, but mine is not a DD and they are not the original rotors so that is not a worry for me. They do make a little dust, but it just rinses off my clear coated rims. The most important part, I have complete confidence in how my car stops now.

Edit: Why I chose the EBC Yellow Stuff

it may be more than the Op is looking for, but for me, when it's not sitting in a parking lot at a show, I do a little "spirited" driving. Drag racing only requires that you be able to slow down/stop at the end of the strip. I am looking forward to doing a little parking lot Autocross events, so performance braking with the factory setup was much desired.

EBC Yellowstuff Fastest Street, Race & Drift Racing Brake Pads
High friction formula improves brake effect 30%.
Fastest brake pads for Street, Drift & Race
Zero brake fade makes this material perfect for fastest driving
Capable of repeated heavy brake use without brake “Fall-Off”
Very minimal disc/rotor damage characteristics
Suitable for shorter track events and race use
Medium hardness material feels good at pedal
If all you need is stopping power, this is the material choice
ECE R 90 type approved for most cars
Features red “brake in’ surface coating for instant safe braking after install

EBC Yellowstuff 1793 compound is a true winner all round, it has high friction from cold, not requiring warm up for street use yet when loaded up and really hot the brakes just get better. Even up to truck weights these pads grip and do not heat fade.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:39 PM
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the ebc redstuff pads have worked very very well for me. Safe & straight stops from over 100 mph (repeatedly), with no fade or drama. Many people here who drive 10,000 miles yearly on their classic Mustang also are using them with great results.

There's probably an equal number using the Porterfield R4-s pads. Either choice is going to be a substantial improvement over the stock OEM pads, or any pad included in the aftermarket brake kits.


Whatever you choose, be sure to have your rotors re-surfaced for maximum effectiveness.


Z

for the 4 piston stock GT (Kelsey-Hayes) brakes:



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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zray View Post
the ebc redstuff pads have worked very very well for me. Safe & straight stops from over 100 mph (repeatedly), with no fade or drama. Many people here who drive 10,000 miles yearly on their classic Mustang also are using them with great results.

There's probably an equal number using the Porterfield R4-s pads. Either choice is going to be a substantial improvement over the stock OEM pads, or any pad included in the aftermarket brake kits.


Whatever you choose, be sure to have your rotors re-surfaced for maximum effectiveness.


Z

for the 4 piston stock GT (Kelsey-Hayes) brakes:




Do those kick off a lot of dust? Had an ebc set of pads on my truck and just tossed them. They kicked off too much dust. I can’t remember what version they were.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:36 PM
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1st off look at the pads and see if they are wearing evenly. Great pads aren't going to reduce effort by a great amount.
Experience tells me that even a cheap pad will stop these cars very well when the other stuff is right. Ive got both EBC Reds(free) and R4S's(bought while on sale) sitting on the shelf just waiting till....
Pushing "hard" is very much relative, I hope you don't mean pushing far as in pedal fading away. Anything should at least have the ability to start slowing you before anything close to what I'd call hard.
You might try de-glazing or re-bedding them. There are a few methods to do this which include repeated stops from a good speed to get everything hot and stinky then driving enough to cool them usually helps anything revive its initial bite.
Before doing that, test on a loose or wet surface where a hard tromp at low speeds should produce a short skid or at least mild whiplash with any pad, even a hard dry surface for that matter. Also to make sure the rears aren't doing most of the work.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:53 PM
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I've got the red EBC. I switch from the stock SSBC pads and the difference was very noticable. I have no problem with cold stops and no problem with high speed stops.
Also I have not noticed any excessive brake dust. Very happy with them.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:58 PM
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Yes, I forgot to mention Ceramics. They are really good too.. They are a bit harder than Organic Pads, but stop very well and are also satisfying..

Thanks for mentioning Ceramics...

)

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:01 PM
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EBC Red Stuff for me too, I think I am on my third season with them. They stop great, no noise, and are very low dust, my wheels stay clean.

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