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Engine & trans install info needed.

5K views 15 replies 12 participants last post by  alex1965 
#1 ·
Within the next few weeks I will hopefully be installing the 5.0 engine & T-5 trans into my 69 Coupe. I will be doing this myself with the help of my wife, my question is should I install the engine first, then install the trans after, or install them together?. I will be working on the ground in my driveway with no access to a lift. I could install the engine, then put the Mustang on metal ramps in the front & jack stands under the rear axle housing & install the trans from under the car. I have an engine hoist but all I have to raise the trans in place is a floor jack. What do you all think would be the best way?.
 
#3 ·
IMO, dealers choice. Installing with the trans attached can be easier if you can get enough of a downward angle on the trans to get it to clear things without hitting. There's a higher chance you'll scratch the snot out of the core support. I've found getting the car the 'right' height for the hoist is important. You dont want it too tall that you cant get the hoist all up but so short that you cant easily get under it.

A t5 isnt hard to install underneath though, similar to my TKO600. Putting them in separate is safer for paint and easier to manage but it'll add a couple extra hours to your install getting the trans in.

Get the car up as high as you can for the trans install. If you have or have access to an ATV lift put the trans on that angling the input shaft up about 3-4", crank and insert.
 
#4 ·
5.0 in a '69 is like slipping your size 8 foot into a size 14 shoe...... cake. It's not like you're dropping in a big block, right? I'd stab the trans and engine together- less crawling around under the car later.
 
#5 ·
What I've done in the past when I actually had a cement driveway was put the engine and trans in at the same time. If you have a floor jack that rolls pretty easy, then even better. Cover the radiator core support with some soft padding - I use a moving blanket. I use the floor jack with another, small pad on it like an old small towel, t-shirts, etc. Use the floor jack to support the tail end of the transmission and as you push everything back after clearing the core support, the floor jack helps keep the trans up a little bit and guide it to the rear.

Or get an engine leveler. :)
 
#6 ·
An engine leveler will make it a lot easier. If you can't borrow one, they're $30-$40 at HF. A little grease on the threads before you start makes it even better. Never checked, a leveler may be one of the tools that autozone will loan you. worth a call to find out.
 
#7 ·
I usually do my installs with the engine and transmission together as one piece using an Engine Pivot Plate https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTD-701001. A bit pricy but have used it a few times and for me it was worth the cost.
For the install I also left all the engine pulleys and brackets off to help clear the radiator support.
I also have a solid lift plate and an adjustable sling but prefer the pivot plate. Good luck, Jim
 
#8 ·
Jacking up the rear of the car as high as you can get it while leaving the front tires on the ground should allow a steep enough angle for the engine/trans combo (with load leveler) to be tilted into place. As the load is lowered it is leveled. Note that with only two people, it might be a bit of a challenge but it is definitely doable. In my experience, having a "crew" with assigned tasks (ie: under the car guiding the trans tail shaft up into alignment for the trans mount) makes it smoother. Note it is possible for a single person to do it but it will take more finesse and more time.

Here is a youtube video with 4 people and NO leveler from 7 years ago:


 
#10 ·
Be patient with your wife and explain exactly what you are doing or what you want her to do .
 
#11 ·
It's kind of personal preference. I like to work solo and put transmissions in from underneath. A T5 is about the easiest at 75 pounds. You want to install the clutch and bellhousing first. That way you can just "stab" the T5 in from underneath. If you don't want to be underneath as much, put them in as one. You would guide and have the wife work the hoist. Before you get the engine in the car, have her work the crane WITH the weight of the engine on it. Your main points would be that she has a feel for "let it down slow" and "let it down just an inch". And be really sure of which way to turn the valve for stop and release. Hydraulics require a little feel and tend to release all of a sudden if you're not prepared or get nervous and turn the wrong way. One reason I work solo. I might mess up something I would have to fix later but no chance of bodily harm for the person working the jack and you can't work a jack and really be up in the engine at the same time. I know people with missing tips of fingers and other unamusing injuries from engine swaps.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot for the responses everyone, I am going to try to get a buddy to help me & my wife. I do not have an ATV lift, but I do have the engine lifting plate that bolts to the intake manifold that is shown in the attached video above by JeffTepper. I did a google search for the engine leveler & can get a 3/4 ton capacity heavy duty load leveler for $29.99, or a 2 ton unit for $39.99 from Harbor Freight.
 
#13 ·
I threw my leveler in the scrap bin years ago. Don't worry about it. The carb plate will let you swing and tilt just fine, especially with an extra hand. If you really need a bunch more tilt you can't quite hold by hand, creative use of a regular ratchet strap (like you use to strap a motorcycle on a trailer) will do fine.
 
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