Dreaded over heating topic again...I know guys sorry - Page 10 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #136 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:52 PM
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How about the shroud? Fan half in and half out? What about adding a pusher fan on a relay to help? If it is an automatic transmission, how about and independent cooler to take the trans heat away from the coolant? Sorry if these don't apply...I haven't read every post in the thread.

My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Dealer A/C • Console
•Dual Exhaust • Power Steering

Younger son's 1st car...
'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory A/C •Console
WAITING FOR RESTORATION

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post #137 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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@myfirstcar66 it's a manual. Fan is half in and half out. I thought about a pusher but with the AC condenser I don't have much room. I would have to pull the latch system and use hood pins (which I don't mind at all and think looks cool anyway.)

Last edited by PA_cob; 06-15-2019 at 10:42 PM.
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post #138 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 10:44 PM
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Use small engine throttle/choke cable bracket(s) to position the thermocouples tube.
BRACKET

Ever consider louvering the rear aprons to let heat escape?

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

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post #139 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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@Woodchuck I was considering that vs the hood scoop. But definitely need something. How do you louver the apron? And what thermocouple tube are you talking about?
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post #140 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to try the electric fan route. I bought a 16 inch flex-a-lite trimline that is rated for 2215 cfm. It fits with about an inch to spare between the fan and the water pump pulley. After getting it connected through a thermostatic controller I can tell you that it flows more at idle than the clutch fan for sure. I will have an opportunity today to see how it cools when it's hot. Will post back with results.
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post #141 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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On way home from work today outside temp was 95 degrees. I was stuck in stop and go traffic for 30 minutes. Highest temp reached was between 215-220 degrees. That was right before traffic cleared. Took 30 minutes to get to that temp. Previously would have seen 230+ with old fan. While the temp never reached over heating levels it was still slowly creeping up once I got going again, albeit slower than before. Electric fan is an improvement. I am ok with where it's at now but think a 24 inch radiator and contour fans are in store for the future. Still think a way to vent heat out of the engine compartment would help some.
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post #142 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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This car really has me frustrated. I have done everything under the sun. Was just driving a little but ago came off the highway, my temp gauge said 195. I stop at the gas station and see steam. Open the hood and fluid is puking out from under the cap and flooding the reserve system as well. Upper radiator hose was super tight. It's as if the radiator wasn't flowing as fast as my pump was flowing and it created a back pressure.
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post #143 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:59 PM
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if you have a pressure holding cap(and you should) that would explain the tight hose, if you have to much coolant in the system that could explain the puking.
Air pocket ?
headgaskets on wrong ?
radiator plugged ?
lower hose collapsing ?


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post #144 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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if you have a pressure holding cap(and you should) that would explain the tight hose, if you have to much coolant in the system that could explain the puking.
Air pocket ?
headgaskets on wrong ?
radiator plugged ?
lower hose collapsing ?
The cap is a 13lb stock type cap made by motorad. I let air out of the system when I filled it, and burped it a couple of times. The head gaskets are new, installed with the word front to the front on both sides. Lower hose has a spring in it. Radiator could be plugged it's only a year old, but I have seen rust bits in the system. I flushed it recently with citric acid.
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post #145 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PA_cob View Post
The cap is a 13lb stock type cap made by motorad. I let air out of the system when I filled it, and burped it a couple of times. The head gaskets are new, installed with the word front to the front on both sides. Lower hose has a spring in it. Radiator could be plugged it's only a year old, but I have seen rust bits in the system. I flushed it recently with citric acid.
2 row Champion and a upper hose filter done


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post #146 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:43 PM
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I think you should pull the heads and verify you have the correct gaskets and they are installed correctly. Something basic is wrong. With all you have tried and done you should not be experiencing this.
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post #147 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I think you should pull the heads and verify you have the correct gaskets and they are installed correctly. Something basic is wrong. With all you have tried and done you should not be experiencing this.
I just put those gaskets on. Like a month ago. I placed the gaskets on both the block and the heads before installing to make sure that they were correct and the ports matched.

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post #148 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:53 PM
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Tongue its not the bore job,....

PA, if you have water pump and pulleys and radiator figured out, hows the mixture in the carb ? Are the certifugal and vacuum advance both working properly ? And forget the bore, thats not the problem. 289s and 302s have been getting bored .060 for decades. It is not a problem. The folks who think it is don't understand how their engine works. The cylinderwalls job is too contain the piston & rings, the cylinder walls are NOT insulators !!
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post #149 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 10:47 AM
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If you decide to go this way....

https://www.mustangsteve.com/radiatorcutdetail.html.

I am perplexed by your over heat issue. I do have a 4 row desert cooler that has been cleaned and Rodded sitting on my shelf waiting to go into my 65. If you want try it out just to see if it works, I could loan it to you for a trial. Let me know. These old motors do shed a lot of rust flakes. I know you said you’ve done citrus flush...and I think you said you’ve done thermocure as well? Something doesn’t make sense. Timing can also cause a lot of unnecessary heat.

I have used the el cheapo eBay 24 inch aluminum radiators. I like them and like the price. That might be the way to go if you decide to cut it. I have a brand new in box 24 inch radiator for my 68 in garage. Contact me if u decide to cut it.


65 FB 289/3sp Rangoon Red/Red interior
68 Coupe 200/6 T-5 Diamond Blue/Blue interior
68 Coupe 302/C4 Black interior
69 Coupe 250/6 C4, Blue/Black interior
70 Coupe 390/C6 Auto Gold Metallic/Ginger interior
2010 Gold V6/Auto Sunset Gold/Black interior
65 Falcon Vintage Burgundy/Palomino interior

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post #150 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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PA, if you have water pump and pulleys and radiator figured out, hows the mixture in the carb ? Are the certifugal and vacuum advance both working properly ? And forget the bore, thats not the problem. 289s and 302s have been getting bored .060 for decades. It is not a problem. The folks who think it is don't understand how their engine works. The cylinderwalls job is too contain the piston & rings, the cylinder walls are NOT insulators !!
LSG
I have tried everything. As far as I can tell the carb is fine. I tuned idle using vacuum and get almost 22 inches. Vacuum advance works and and centrifugal advance as well. I have the reluctor on 10, initial timing is 18 total timing is 38. Time is all the way in by 3000 rpm. Right now I have it running on manifold vacuum (idles smoother and seems to run slightly cooler). Right when cap is off radiator and thermostat opens the flow is very fast and seems fine. Not sure what else I can try.
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