What thermostat are Florida folks running? - Page 4 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #46 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:35 PM
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Sorry, been out in the sun too long. Will likely become more irrational as time goes on. I'm not one to go gently into that "good night", like it or not, the big sleep is getting closer



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LOL, I hear ya Z
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post #47 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:28 PM
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Sorry, been out in the sun too long.

Z
Well, if you change your internal thermostat to a lower one. You could stay out in the sun even longer.
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...Marco

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post #48 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:44 PM
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OK guys, Thankx for all the input. I ordered a Stant 45359 Thermostat and probably change my anti freeze mixture to a 50/50 mix which has a boiling point to 225F. I had read that more water than antifreeze transfers heat better i.e. 80/20 mix which equals a boiling point of approx. 216F. The information I have is as follows:
90/10 =214BP
80/20 =216BP
70/30 =220BP
60/40 =220BP
50/50 =225BP
I may just leave it @ 80/20 and see how hot it gets driving up a mountain. If water transfers heat better than antifreeze there shouldn't be a problem unless it reaches over 216 degrees. I really don't need my heater here in southern cali.
Thanks Again for all your responses.

'66 Conv. 289, C4 Automatic, Pertronix I ignition, Flamethrower coil, 8mm Street Fire plug wires, MSD rotor and cap. Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 Synthetic.
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post #49 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:37 PM
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80/20 has no benefit, in fact it will do more harm than good on a street engine long term.

By reducing the boiling point of the coolant, your cap will vent sooner and more frequent in hot weather.

Antifreeze has inhibitors that reduce electrolysis and rust formation in the cooling system.

Also noticed that you mentioned the mountains. As elevation increases, the boiling point of water decreases. At 2000 ft elevation water will boil at 208-209 degrees, at 5000 ft it boils at 203 degrees.


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post #50 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post
OK guys, Thankx for all the input. I ordered a Stant 45359 Thermostat and probably change my anti freeze mixture to a 50/50 mix which has a boiling point to 225F. I had read that more water than antifreeze transfers heat better i.e. 80/20 mix which equals a boiling point of approx. 216F. The information I have is as follows:
90/10 =214BP
80/20 =216BP
70/30 =220BP
60/40 =220BP
50/50 =225BP
I may just leave it @ 80/20 and see how hot it gets driving up a mountain. If water transfers heat better than antifreeze there shouldn't be a problem unless it reaches over 216 degrees. I really don't need my heater here in southern cali.
Thanks Again for all your responses.
This is correct, water transfers heat better that straight coolant.
Coolant adds corrosion protection, freeze protection, and raises the boiling point.
But don’t forget that pressure does even more to raise the boiling point. Which is exactly what your radiator cap does.
At sea level, a cooling system running straight water and a 7 psi radiator cap will not boil until about 221 degrees F.

Most use a 12 psi (or greater) cap along with a 50/50 mix, so boiling point will be even higher.

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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:36 PM
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with a 12 lb radiator cap you can safely run straight water (distilled or better) with a bottle of water wetter for lubrication and improved heat transfer.

At 12 lb pressure, Straight water w/ WW won't boil until you are over 240 F. I don't see a problem with those numbers as long as you don't need the freeze protection of antifreeze.

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/tech...ling-point.pdf

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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:29 AM
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I'm running a 13 lb. pressure cap. So what i'm to conclude is that I should just run a 50/50 mix with a 195 degree thermostat. and just be done with it.
CORRECT

'66 Conv. 289, C4 Automatic, Pertronix I ignition, Flamethrower coil, 8mm Street Fire plug wires, MSD rotor and cap. Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 Synthetic.
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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:18 AM
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I'm running a 13 lb. pressure cap. So what i'm to conclude is that I should just run a 50/50 mix with a 195 degree thermostat. and just be done with it.
CORRECT
yes, you could do those things and be done with it.

Is it below 32 F in the SoCal winter ? If your car doesn't encounter freezing temperatures, then you could just as easily run 100% distilled water with a bottle of water wetter additive. And be done with it, as well.

personally, I prefer to use 100% water with a bottle of water wetter added. I'll run that 9 months of the year, and then in the wintertime use 60% to 80% water / to 40% to 20% antifreeze Plus the bottle of water wetter of course.

I've never had boilover issues when using 100% water with the water wetter. Water wetter is another product that works as advertised. It won't reduce your engine coolant temperature by more than 5% to 10%. But sometimes thats enough to put a problematic engine back into the comfort zone. Plus the lubrication it provides makes running with all water an easy decision.

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/f...ech%20Info.pdf

Z


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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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Ok. Being from California. Northern, so it is not as hot. I run distilled water with a bottle of Kool It. So do most of my buddies. 180 TStat

I also drive to Reno in August for HAN. 100+ degrees. Driving in traffic in Sacramento or over the Sierra's I never have a problem.

...Marco

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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:23 AM
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yes, you could do those things and be done with it.

Is it below 32 F in the SoCal winter ? If your car doesn't encounter freezing temperatures, then you could just as easily run 100% distilled water with a bottle of water wetter additive. And be done with it, as well.

personally, I prefer to use 100% water with a bottle of water wetter added. I'll run that 9 months of the year, and then in the wintertime use 60% to 80% water / to 40% to 20% antifreeze Plus the bottle of water wetter of course.

I've never had boilover issues when using 100% water with the water wetter. Water wetter is another product that works as advertised. It won't reduce your engine coolant temperature by more than 5% to 10%. But sometimes thats enough to put a problematic engine back into the comfort zone. Plus the lubrication it provides makes running with all water an easy decision.

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/f...ech%20Info.pdf

Z
Very seldom does the temp drop below 32 F, and if it does, I don't take it out of the garage. This car is not a daily driver. A little history. It was born in Monterey,CA and has pretty much been in Cali since. I acquired the car after my dad died back in 1987. He had purchased it from a neighbor who had it in storage for over 12 years, so it needed a lot of TLC to get it back on the road. Since I've owned it, it has boiled over only a couple of times. I had the radiator roded and installed a fan shroud (that's where if found out the radiator was not a 66 because the shroud would not fit, so I got one for a 67) Everything is pretty much stock, even down to the smog pump except for a Pertronix I ignition and a flamethrower coil with some Street Fire 8mm wires and MSD cap. It has 53,000 original miles and I don't drive it as much as I should (my bad). So I'm going to put in a 195 F thermostat and go with the Water wetter after I drain as much of the fluid as I can (probably not the block) and refill with distilled water and Water wetter and go from there. Thanks everyone for your input.

'66 Conv. 289, C4 Automatic, Pertronix I ignition, Flamethrower coil, 8mm Street Fire plug wires, MSD rotor and cap. Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 Synthetic.
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:33 AM
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Ok. Being from California. Northern, so it is not as hot. I run distilled water with a bottle of Kool It. So do most of my buddies. 180 TStat

I also drive to Reno in August for HAN. 100+ degrees. Driving in traffic in Sacramento or over the Sierra's I never have a problem.
I'll probably go with Red Line Water wetter since they carry it at my local Oreilly's, but what is Kool It, who makes it and where do you get it? And how does it compare to Red Line ?

P.S. does anyone have an opinion on spark plugs for the 289. I was running Champion RF9YC's but debating on these Champion RF11YC or Autolite 45 or NGK V-Power.

'66 Conv. 289, C4 Automatic, Pertronix I ignition, Flamethrower coil, 8mm Street Fire plug wires, MSD rotor and cap. Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 Synthetic.

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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:22 AM
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I'll probably go with Red Line Water wetter since they carry it at my local Oreilly's, but what is Kool It, who makes it and where do you get it? And how does it compare to Red Line ?

P.S. does anyone have an opinion on spark plugs for the 289. I was running Champion RF9YC's but debating on these Champion RF11YC or Autolite 45 or NGK V-Power.
I don't know about the "kool it" product.

The basic Autolite 45 spark plug is a good choice. It is a wide range plug and can be used in the 289 / 302 engines successfully, even with non stock engines having different tunes and HP output. The more expensive 45 platinum series , 45P and 45PP, are not needed.

Z

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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:15 PM
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I don't know about the "kool it" product.

The basic Autolite 45 spark plug is a good choice. It is a wide range plug and can be used in the 289 / 302 engines successfully, even with non stock engines having different tunes and HP output. The more expensive 45 platinum series , 45P and 45PP, are not needed.

Z
OK. Thanks. I have both sets of plugs Autolite (gap @ .035) and the NGK V-POWER (WR5 gap @.044)
Guess I'll just run the Autolites.

'66 Conv. 289, C4 Automatic, Pertronix I ignition, Flamethrower coil, 8mm Street Fire plug wires, MSD rotor and cap. Amsoil Z Rod 20w-50 Synthetic.
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