Shelby drop...car is too low now. - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:14 PM
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I Far as I can tell, the tires are only rubbing the front bottom corners of the fenders. .
In that case it might be solved with less +caster I had that problem with adjustable strut rods before I realized I had +6* caster pulling the front of the tire forward. Its one of those cases they might cause it but they might also fix it if you don't have them.
If you think you could stand a larger gap fender/door you can loosen all the bolts and tug the fender forward for a bit more clearance.
You'll have one well skinned cat if you try all these suggestions.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 12:50 PM
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I've got the 1" polyurethane spacers at the top of my shocks and have had no problems with them for over 15 years.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1ofAMillion+ View Post
In that case it might be solved with less +caster I had that problem with adjustable strut rods before I realized I had +6* caster pulling the front of the tire forward. Its one of those cases they might cause it but they might also fix it if you don't have them.
If you think you could stand a larger gap fender/door you can loosen all the bolts and tug the fender forward for a bit more clearance.
You'll have one well skinned cat if you try all these suggestions.
I had wondered about the strut rods. Are the OEM rods not adjustable? It seems if I were to spin the nuts the same number of times it would push the LCA back. The nuts are currently threaded up to the solid part of the rod and it seems like they are pulling the LCA's forward. I had to loosen the passenger side rod a lot to get it to connect to the LCA, but the driver side LCA bolted right back up to it.

I still need to lift the car back up either way, I don't like how low it's sitting at the moment.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:47 PM
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I apologize for that, I got my years mixed up again. Yes, yours are somewhat adjustable. On the earlier ones that aren't they can move and people get rubbing like that, mostly in reverse. Your do however still have rubber that is compressible and move a bit.

The taller spring rubbers should be your fix then since you want a taller stance anyway. If it doesn't quite do it you could then loosen your strut rods to push the tire back then have a shim added to the front bolt of your UCA to regain the same amount of caster. Some people do it like that to keep the tire more centered in the wheel well or to make sure both tires look the same in the wheel well.
Good Luck.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sycostang67 View Post
I had wondered about the strut rods. Are the OEM rods not adjustable? It seems if I were to spin the nuts the same number of times it would push the LCA back. The nuts are currently threaded up to the solid part of the rod and it seems like they are pulling the LCA's forward. I had to loosen the passenger side rod a lot to get it to connect to the LCA, but the driver side LCA bolted right back up to it.

I still need to lift the car back up either way, I don't like how low it's sitting at the moment.
OEM 67+ Mustang strut rods are adjustable
65/66 are not I made my own with rod ends. I have 3.5ish castor cuasing the the bottom front of the fender t rub ,I cut it off with a body saw. It's not visible

I wouldn't want to loose castor to such a minor rub, I like handling vs anything else


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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:03 PM
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 10:36 AM
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OEM 67+ Mustang strut rods are adjustable
65/66 are not I made my own with rod ends. I have 3.5ish castor cuasing the the bottom front of the fender t rub ,I cut it off with a body saw. It's not visible

I wouldn't want to loose castor to such a minor rub, I like handling vs anything else
You can also rebuild the upper control arms with attaching shaft moved forward (moving the arms themselves backwards relative to the car) while using adjustable strut rods to move the lower control arm forward. This allows much more castor without rubbing. I have about 6 degree of castor. See: https://dazecars.com/dazed/UCA.html about three paragraphs down.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I shouldn't have any rubbing once I get the height back up, but if I do, trimming the corners would be no big deal. Will I need another alignment when the car goes back up an inch?

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 07:48 PM
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https://www.harborfreight.com/high-s...hoCs3AQAvD_BwE

or go big or go home
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 07:59 PM
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I shouldn't have any rubbing once I get the height back up, but if I do, trimming the corners would be no big deal. Will I need another alignment when the car goes back up an inch?
Yes, you will need another alignment. While you have it apart I would install a 1/8" shim in the front bolt of both upper control arms. This will increase your caster without pulling the front wheel as far forward.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 08:03 PM
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The man shows a quality tool and you go all elcrappo on him! Good price though!
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 08:30 PM
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The man shows a quality tool and you go all elcrappo on him! Good price though!
ok fine


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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:55 AM
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I assume you have adjustable strut rods? Do you have the wheels located in the center of the wheel opening or a little forward?
You can always shim the front side of the upper arm and then lengthen the strut rod to move the wheel to the center of the opening and gain clearence at the front.

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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I got the spacers installed and added a shim to the front bolt of each UCA. The rubbing is 99.9% gone. The driver side tire just barely touches when turning so I'll do a little massaging with a grinder before I go in for the alignment on Monday.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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