My Very Own 1968 Stang' Radiator Thread! - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Talking My Very Own 1968 Stang' Radiator Thread!

So I reused the 289 radiator that came with the car. It's a pretty good condition brass radiator. However, cruising around and ducking in and out of stop n' go traffic during low 80's temps I've been consistently noticing it tops out at about this range on the temperature guage (2/3 up the dial at max). Wondering how typical for most Mustangs this is. When moving air at 30mph or so to highway speeds it's more like 1/2 way up the guage which seems more normal. Most of the time thankfully it's been running in the middle.

Now that the engine and transmission and rest of the car have proven out I'll spring for a new one.

Do I need a bigger rad going from 289 to 302?

I have a 180 deg thermostat, a plastic shroud, 6-blade metal fan, new water pump and the thermostatic valve is new but have not hooked up yet. I read it was mostly to raise idle through vaccum advance for air conditioning to help keep cool. I'll plug it into my vaccum advance and see what it does soon. A/C is the after market kind but I have not yet installed condenser and compressor.
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File Type: jpg Temp Guage.jpg (416.6 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 68 Back.jpg (567.9 KB, 8 views)

Last edited by jsbenami; 05-07-2019 at 11:10 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:13 PM
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Sounds perfectly normal. You should see a difference with your DVCV connected.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:20 PM
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That is pretty typical. But you can do better. Your radiator is likely clogged up. My 68 used to overheat on long hard drives or idling for long periods.

I took a pristine looking date coded radiator to a radiator shop. They pressure and flow checked it. Even though it look excellent it only flowed 60% of the rated value after a professional flush.

I replaced it with a new 3 row, stock shroud and stock clutch fan. The temp hasn’t moved past 1/2 way since. Thanks includes a 400 mile dive to the NPD car show averag8ng 75 most of the way.

No difference in radiator between a 289 & 302, however with A/C you need to use the 24” radiator. It mounts differently but is a simple bolt in operation. Once you get the right mo7nts.

Flade
68 289 convertible Candy-apple red & white
66 200 coupe Blue
94 GT convertible Red & black
98 GT convertible White & black
98 V6 convertible White & tan


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting.....so if 24" is an upgrade what size is this? Car had A/C before but it's the kind that was added in in the 60's or 70's after the fact. Not factory in-dash. When I get that going again the blower unit under the dash still works strong. But would need an R134a.

I also must get a coolant catch can. It shot out hot steam and coolant after I shut it off yesterday.

The clutch fan....does this add any extra cooling or just stops the horsepower drain and noise?

Also Flade if you don't mind...what kind of fan/spacer did you go to with on the clutch and new radiator? Did you get the kit from NPD?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 01:23 PM
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I think thats why so many people put in 180* t-stats, to feel better about where the needle is most often
Just a comparative guess would be is your 2/3rds up is ~215* or a bit more, still a ways from overheating. Seeing your gauge actual move is a good sign.
You should treat it almost as if it were overheating now with a citrus flush or Thermocure, if for no other reason than its good maintenance.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 01:30 PM
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I also must get a coolant catch can. It shot out hot steam and coolant after I shut it off yesterday.
If after it spews and cools down check the level. If water is above the fins that may be its happy level.
When you fill it make the water be just above the fins, at this level it is high enough so that it flows into the upper rad hose so that the engine should be at full capacity. It also gives the water room to expand as it gets hotter and should be enough room to keep it from spewing unless it gets a huge heat spike.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Had no idea what stat to go with so I went with the factory setting of 180F. I'm definitely getting a can...maybe it can drawn in more fluid when it needs and that could only help. I flushed it once right after the engine ran for the first time because it browned up. New engine had rust in the galleys from sitting and probably the old rad as well. After refill it's a bit tinted but still green. Probably will flush it again and redo a summer mix. It was filled in February cold. Maybe put in an additive too.

But I think down the road this summer a better radiator would be the way to go. Do they make stock fitment radiators that are better and still fit? Or do I need to get new mounts for a bigger 24". I'm guessing mine is a 20".

I've read the aluminum rads are much better than the old copper/brass. So same size might cool better.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:07 PM
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Had no idea what stat to go with so I went with the factory setting of 180F. I'm definitely getting a can...maybe it can drawn in more fluid when it needs and that could only help. I flushed it once right after the engine ran for the first time because it browned up. New engine had rust in the galleys from sitting and probably the old rad as well. After refill it's a bit tinted but still green. Probably will flush it again and redo a summer mix. It was filled in February cold. Maybe put in an additive too.

But I think down the road this summer a better radiator would be the way to go. Do they make stock fitment radiators that are better and still fit? Or do I need to get new mounts for a bigger 24". I'm guessing mine is a 20".

I've read the aluminum rads are much better than the old copper/brass. So same size might cool better.
I'm using a champion 3 row core 20" aluminum radiator, 6 blade fan, the original type sheet metal shroud, 195 degree thermostat, and flowkooler water pump. So far, I run a consistent 197-199 degrees whether at idle or at 80 mph on the highway. We'll see how well it does when the outside temps get up into the 80s and 90s.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:56 PM
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https://www.championradiators.com/product/EC340
a upper hose filter would be good as well , pick your flavor.I have a Gano

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all, I love these kinds of tips and advice!! For example I had NO clue a rad hose filter even existed

If you go electric fan, how much electrical work is needed? Juicier alternator? Wiring harness and soldering?
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:11 PM
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Interesting.....so if 24" is an upgrade what size is this? Car had A/C before but it's the kind that was added in in the 60's or 70's after the fact. Not factory in-dash. When I get that going again the blower unit under the dash still works strong. But would need an R134a.

I also must get a coolant catch can. It shot out hot steam and coolant after I shut it off yesterday.

The clutch fan....does this add any extra cooling or just stops the horsepower drain and noise?

Also Flade if you don't mind...what kind of fan/spacer did you go to with on the clutch and new radiator? Did you get the kit from NPD?
The clutch fan has a spacer built in. I used the stock Ford fan, shroud etc. I bought the radiator & shroud from NPD. The clutch and fans are original Ford pieces.

The clutch allows you to use a more aggressive fan without paying a power penalty.

Flade
68 289 convertible Candy-apple red & white
66 200 coupe Blue
94 GT convertible Red & black
98 GT convertible White & black
98 V6 convertible White & tan

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Where did you buy the stock style Fan & Clutch? I have a 20" fan shroud from CJPP. Perfect fit...but plastic of course. I've got the 20" brass style 3-row radiator. No idea how old and a clutchless (I'm guessing 17" or 18") 6 blade fan. Once I get through some brake and rear suspension issues I'm going to probably get an alumium 20" rad and swap to fan and w.clutch at the same time. Most of the ones I see are thermostatic.

Master cyl started leaking gotta swap that first....it's ancient.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Today, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Folks,

I learn new things all the time from searches and threads....read that the support in a 68' is a bolt-in operation for upgrading to a 24" big block style radiator. How true is this?

"The ’67-’68 Mustang core support opening is larger than the ’65-’66 opening to accommodate this larger radiator (the small-block radiator used bolt-on block-off plates on each side)."

I do remember those block off plates when reinstalling my 20" 3-row copper/brass. Can you just drop in a 24" aluminum rad, add a new shroud & fan and call it a day? If so that would be great especially if I get the A/C running on this thing again next year.
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