Engine Bay and frame rails - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Bay and frame rails

Hi all,

kind of a newbie here. I have a '67 Coupe with a 289. We just removed the engine to see how much sheet metal work needs to be done in the engine bay.
Two big things that need to be repaired are both side Front frame rail and floor supports. Both are a rusty swiss cheese mess.

The drivers side shock tower has some very strange welding and the passenger side battery apron is a complete mess.

Other than that the engine bay is OK.



So here is my question. I'm looking at buying the "Full shock tower" for both drivers and passenger side (from CJ). Those seem to come as a complete kit (sans the engine mounts) but require a bunch of work and welding to get these in. Also purchasing the floor supports. Together these look like they will have everything i need to get back to 'original'

-Or- i'm looking at buying Total control products full "Slip" system. This system seems to be complete too but requires some aprons to be purchased to get rid of the rust.


The TCP changes from Original to modified but gives me 'new' technology and a better ride. I'm not trying to make this car a street racer or performance machine... jsut keep it a Sunday driver.

Anybody have this same debate? Any experience with the TCP product?

"Carl" Mustang
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 01:00 PM
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Have at look at Jo Daddys garage utube video series where he rebuilds his 67 mustang. For your stated end goal, I would just stay stockish. You can add lots of bolt in or weld in items that will make it better. Save the vin number stamps! I would also check out NPD over other mustang vendors. Always more issues, work and money than you originally think..... Are you doing the work yourself?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlproject View Post
Hi all,

kind of a newbie here. I have a '67 Coupe with a 289. We just removed the engine to see how much sheet metal work needs to be done in the engine bay.
Two big things that need to be repaired are both side Front frame rail and floor supports. Both are a rusty swiss cheese mess.

-Or- i'm looking at buying Total control products full "Slip" system. This system seems to be complete too but requires some aprons to be purchased to get rid of the rust.

The TCP changes from Original to modified but gives me 'new' technology and a better ride. I'm not trying to make this car a street racer or performance machine... jsut keep it a Sunday driver.

Anybody have this same debate? Any experience with the TCP product?
I installed the full front clip from TCP in my 70 Mach 1. The TCP front clip is an expensive solution if you are going to keep the 289. You really don't need to eliminate the shock towers which is one of the main reasons to go with a front clip like the one from TCP. Just based upon cost, I would look at this solution as one of last resort. You can purchase complete frame rails with shock towers and inner fender aprons much cheaper. The mods for the TCP front clip is a lot of surgery too, something to consider. Take a look at my build thread link in my signature, it will give you an idea of what you would be getting into. I too wanted to replace damaged frame rails, but needed to remove the shock towers to fit the Coyote, and I wanted added strength. The TCP solution did everything I needed it to do, just not cheap. With the level of suspension, sway bar, and shocks I purchased to go with the front clip, into it for on the order of $7K.
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Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlproject View Post
Hi all,

kind of a newbie here. I have a '67 Coupe with a 289. We just removed the engine to see how much sheet metal work needs to be done in the engine bay.
Two big things that need to be repaired are both side Front frame rail and floor supports. Both are a rusty swiss cheese mess.

The drivers side shock tower has some very strange welding and the passenger side battery apron is a complete mess.

Other than that the engine bay is OK.



So here is my question. I'm looking at buying the "Full shock tower" for both drivers and passenger side (from CJ). Those seem to come as a complete kit (sans the engine mounts) but require a bunch of work and welding to get these in. Also purchasing the floor supports. Together these look like they will have everything i need to get back to 'original'

-Or- i'm looking at buying Total control products full "Slip" system. This system seems to be complete too but requires some aprons to be purchased to get rid of the rust.


The TCP changes from Original to modified but gives me 'new' technology and a better ride. I'm not trying to make this car a street racer or performance machine... jsut keep it a Sunday driver.

Anybody have this same debate? Any experience with the TCP product?
Frankly, replacing the entire tower and apron assembly is less work than replacing the tower. Do the worst side first, using the remaining side as a dimensional guide (and a high-quality export brace).



There's a whole series of photos of a 68 GT350 at the Mustang Barn site getting both full assemblies done.

https://www.mustangbarn.com/gallery
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Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlproject View Post
...kind of a newbie here... I'm looking at buying the "Full shock tower" for both drivers and passenger side (from CJ).
Before you pull the trigger, you might want to do a search on the VMF for CJPP and see what comes up. (Look on the right side of your screen where it reads "Google Custom Search".) Just sayin', since you're new and all...
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Bill

6F07C
Color: Y
Trim: 22
Axle: 6
Trans: 6
Build Date: July 18, 1966


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:57 AM
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If you want to save time and money check out our MTF full subframe. We have a professional car builder that has done both TCP and ours. He's going to be doing a testimonial explaining how much easier ours is to install. We make everything to fit and just fall into place. Our headers are a breeze to install. Go to YouTube mustangstofear and watch the video.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:02 AM
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Do check with your state about what to do - legally - about the vin numbers on that original sheet metal. Or years from now there will be another thread about "the missing numbers".

Roddster
67 GT 350: MCA & SAAC Gold winner
67 S code GTA coupe
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Roddster View Post
Do check with your state about what to do - legally - about the vin numbers on that original sheet metal. Or years from now there will be another thread about "the missing numbers".
Very true. The Feds and most states have no problem with re-stamped VIN in the course of legitimate repair. Michigan, IIRC, is an exception, basically no-how, no-way.

McMaster-Carr and others can provide the stamps should you need them. Of course, 68-up would not need this.

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Roddster View Post
Do check with your state about what to do - legally - about the vin numbers on that original sheet metal. Or years from now there will be another thread about "the missing numbers".
An alternative to restamping new sheet metal would be to transfer a portion of the old fender aprons containing the VIN stamps. If the old sheet metal containing the VIN is solid, just cut the area around the VIN and move these pieces to the new sheet metal. Not that hard to do considering all the other surgery needed to replace the frame rails.

Alan
1970 Mach 1 Coyote powered restomod in progress. Started 10/2016.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...mod-build.html
2017 Mustang GT AT donor purchased 9/2017.
FFR MK4 sold 3/1/2018.
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