Sometimes everything just seems to go right - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes everything just seems to go right

Other times, not so much. My stroker which has still only seen limited time on the street has decided sudden like to spring oil leaks on the top and the bottom. They just showed up one day like the engine decided it needed to take a leak. They are very small leaks but they are leaks and I hate leaks.



I think the intake leak is probably because of the .060 gasket. I am most likely going to have to go back to the .090 even though the gasket port openings are a bit large(but not obsessively large) for my current heads. I had thought that maybe my carb adjustment quirks I was struggling with were being caused by the .090 gasket setting up a vacuum leak but they weren't. I just had to learn where this engine wanted to run is all and I did finally get that squared away.



The oil pan leak at the back is going to probably require a more thorough and painful investigation. I'm not sure where it is coming from but it is at the back end somewhere and we have 3 choices with that. This thing has the one piece rear main seal which "they say" is virtually leak proof. Yeah, ok. It broke in fine and ran fine with no leak until one day when it just decided to leak back under there somewhere. I did, as always, particularly remember to seal the flex plate crank bolts of course. My first suspicion is the Canton oil pan which I had powder coated. I specifically told them not to blast the yokes and even left them taped. They blasted them anyway. The situation with that though if it is the pan is that I will have to pull the engine I think. To say that the pan fits like a glove would be fairly accurate. There is no drop down room and now the down side of my boss lower cross member becomes apparent. It also barely clears the center link but that is easy enough to deal with. The cross member isn't. It will be easier to just pull the engine up.



I have decided to postpone these oil activities until I finish the 20 some hours and counting working on my trunk lid to get it in primer, paint and back on the car. It is a new aftermarket deck lid which means the edges difn't fit the car on any side including the lower lip to the tail panel and it had half a dozen mysterious brand new deck lid dents in it when it came out of the box.


I'm in the middle of it and don't want to stop until it is done. I'm not going anywhere in the car for quite a while still and the oil leaks are very small so they can wait.



I'm starting to get that old familiar fantasy urge again where molotov cocktails are involved and the car goes rolling down into the woods with flames coming out everywhere. Eh, this too will pass. Its just another segment of time consumed when I could be moving forward on the body and paint.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 05-16-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:10 PM
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I can't offer anything constructive, but I'd buy you a coffee or a beer right now.
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1967 289 Coupe - AOD, Edelbrock heads, Victor Jr, EZ-Efi, roller front suspension, S197 front brakes, 3.55 gears
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:40 PM
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Oof...i feel your pain. About the time i was ready to get my car legal and start driving it, both the clutch slave cylinder lines started leaking. Had to take the trans out to replace them (Tilton bearing). Once i got it back in, the o2 sensor died and the fuel injection started acting up. New intake manifold, distributor, and o2 sensor later it's back up and going...but now the clutch is soft again so i have to re-bleed it and hope that fixes it.

Life with old, modified cars...
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:13 PM
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Before you get too set tearing off the oil pan and such, check the back of the intake. Don't LOOK back there, use your fingertips to feel all the way across the rearmost part of the intake. Because they can and do leak back there and it will be totally invisible until it forms actual drips at the very bottom of the engine.

Not saying it IS leaking there, just that it is so easy to check and might save you some heartache. Before I go attacking oil pans and rear seals I want to KNOW the leaks aren't coming from further uphill first.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:00 PM
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I've been a little reluctant to admit to this, but I recently crushed my oil pan on my '65 in an unintended offroad excursion (pulled a surprise spin-to-win maneuver that left me on the wrong side of the highway, facing backwards, astraddle of a road ditch, with 2 cops scratching their heads and me waiting for a wrecker....)

Anyhoo...the oil pan had been leaking at the back for sometime anyway.

I dropped the steering linkage by removing the pitman arm bolts from the frame, taking the nut loose that attaches the power steering ram to the frame, and popping the tapered joint at the steering box apart with a puller. This allowed the linkage to drop down about a foot where the power steering hoses let it hang. I also removed the cross member. That gave me god-awful-plenty of room to work with.

On the new pan, I used the fel-pro 1 piece gasket and used a liberal amount of RTV at the back and front, not only at the corners (where everyone says) BUT ALSO along the whole 180 degrees of the arched portion (learned that the hardway when trying to get a 5.0 engine to seal last winter).

Once I put the pan back on, I put all 5 quarts of my OLD oil back in the engine and 5 more quarts of the cheapest engine oil I could find and let it sit to check for leaks at the pan rail.

When I didn't find any, I went ahead and drained the oil and replaced it with fresh.

Then I put the cross member back on and reattached the steering linkage.

QED and leak fixed.

That being said....Gypsy is right. You can't fix an oil pan leak if the oil pan isn't leaking...so verify that first.

Phil



"Two barks means faster!" Enzo

Last edited by HoosierBuddy; 05-16-2019 at 03:06 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierBuddy View Post
I've been a little reluctant to admit to this, but I recently crushed my oil pan on my '65 in an unintended offroad excursion (pulled a surprise spin-to-win maneuver that left me on the wrong side of the highway, facing backwards, astraddle of a road ditch, with 2 cops scratching their heads and me waiting for a wrecker....)

Anyhoo...the oil pan had been leaking at the back for sometime anyway.

I dropped the steering linkage by removing the pitman arm bolts from the frame, taking the nut loose that attaches the power steering ram to the frame, and popping the tapered joint at the steering box apart with a puller. This allowed the linkage to drop down about a foot where the power steering hoses let it hang. I also removed the cross member. That gave me god-awful-plenty of room to work with.

On the new pan, I used the fel-pro 1 piece gasket and used a liberal amount of RTV at the back and front, not only at the corners (where everyone says) BUT ALSO along the whole 180 degrees of the arched portion (learned that the hardway when trying to get a 5.0 engine to seal last winter).

Once I put the pan back on, I put all 5 quarts of my OLD oil back in the engine and 5 more quarts of the cheapest engine oil I could find and let it sit to check for leaks at the pan rail.

When I didn't find any, I went ahead and drained the oil and replaced it with fresh.

Then I put the cross member back on and reattached the steering linkage.

QED and leak fixed.

That being said....Gypsy is right. You can't fix an oil pan leak if the oil pan isn't leaking...so verify that first.

Phil
You're right about the sealer on the U portion of the oil pan gaskets...those damn things always leak!

By the way, those gasket sets usually include multiple intake gaskets for all small-block Ford applications. They look VERY similar, but the coolant passages are not the same and if you used the wrong ones accidentally, this can be a place where a leak will begin...learn from my mistake!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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So I went down to the shop and looked at my intake oil leaks again. Sure enough it is leaking not just at the middle but also at the right side rear corner, down the back of the block and onto the back plate. At that point I think the oil, since it is a slow leak, seeps down between the block and the bell housing and that is what I've been feeling under there at the access plate.


I finished up my trunk lid sanding. It looks really smooth and straight now and the gaps are all good. I re-installed it on the car one last time just to re-check the fit. I'm ready to shoot it in epoxy tomorrow.
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65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 05-17-2019 at 02:14 AM.
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