Let's talk Shocks for a 68' Coupe! - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:09 AM
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I bought a set of Konis way back when you could buy them from your Ford dealer. Ran them for many years and was always very happy with them. One of them froze up on me so I looked into having the set rebuilt. A new set of Bilsteins was a whole lot less expensive. The rebuilder told me that unless you are either building a race car or doing a concours restoration that rebuilding isn't cost effective. In my case it wasn't.


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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:33 PM
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I've used every shock they sell at parts stores and have never been happy with any of them except the Koni Str.t and bilsteins. Nothing Monroe or Gabriel makes seems any better than the 15 dollar no name jobbers. If you just need to hang some part to keep it together then get the 15 dollar shocks.

The Str.t's are fine for your daily driver VW or whatever. If you want it to ride like it has some purpose in life then you need the Bilstein's or better. I know they are 100 bucks a stick, but it's better to spend 400 and be happy than to spend 200 and feel like you wasted 200.

1966 Mustang 302ci 4r70w, csrp front discs, 8.8 rear, EPAS, Fitech for fuel
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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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My philosphy exactly copracr.....I didn't spend thousands on this car and months of backbreaking work just to not use quality stuff. One of the things I love about this Forum.

New Radiator and fan/clutch go in tomorrow. The rear leafs and 4 Bilstein shocks will be next weekend. But they are now here.
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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:25 PM
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You won’t be disappointed!

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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:33 PM
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My philosphy exactly copracr.....I didn't spend thousands on this car and months of backbreaking work just to not use quality stuff. One of the things I love about this Forum.

New Radiator and fan/clutch go in tomorrow. The rear leafs and 4 Bilstein shocks will be next weekend. But they are now here.
Awesome!

-Chris

'68 Mustang
347ci that has a lot of neat stuff in it
T5 manual trans, alum driveshaft, 9" w/3.70 gears
Suspension parts from SoT, Global West, Maier Racing, and a few others. Works for me!
TCP manual rack (love it)
EPAS (Love this the most)
VWW V45 wheels (like these too)
SoT 13" brakes (stopping is good)
And I finally got a paint job!
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 10:36 PM
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You'll love the bilsteins. It will probably ride like a completely different car.


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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 07:12 PM
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A lotta folks around here run their ricer machines and modern cars, and for some bizarre reason Escalades as well(!) but don't ask me why, with ultra low profile tires aka high buck fancy dancy rims with an O-ring of a tire on it. They gotta just love all the potholes and frost heaves we have up here in the Peoples Republik of Kanada.
My old school 70 series profile tires on the Mustang look like flippin' balloons compared to the modern stuff people run -- and they soak a lot of them those frost heaves and minor potholes with no issues at all. Sometimes there IS an advantage to old school.
To the OP - congrats and good call on the shocks. I'm running Koni Classics, but you will be very pleased indeed with the Bilsteins. I think they are double adjustable well, which is an advantage over the Koni's, but I could be mistaken on that.
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[/SIGPIC]67 Fastback GT -- original colour (Frost Turquoise), original 289 A code engine. Pic is of me and the Mustang taken in May of '67, with original F70-14 Wide Ovals. Same car is now restored to "as new" but 3 speed tranny swapped out for 4 speed back in the mid '80's, with tach dash, original Equalock rear, Koni's, Opentracker UCA, LCA, roller perches and idler arm, roller bearing pedal cluster, Cibie headlights, 4100 carb (old 4300 put in storage probably forever)
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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by copracr View Post

The Str.t's are fine for your daily driver VW or whatever. If you want it to ride like it has some purpose in life then you need the Bilstein's or better. I know they are 100 bucks a stick, but it's better to spend 400 and be happy than to spend 200 and feel like you wasted 200.
In the premium parts business this is our mantra.....
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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:16 AM
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I think they are double adjustable well, which is an advantage over the Koni's, but I could be mistaken on that.
Other way around, Koni Classic's are adjustable but Bilstein are not

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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:07 AM
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My latest 67 coupe was nearly all original when I got it last year. After having Chock rebuild the steering box for pure safety reasons, I did the shocks next. I went with Bilsteins all around. That was a huge improvement. It went from cornering like a boat with all kinds of sway to staying relatively flat (city roads, not high speed). I have been replacing more since then, but that was the most dramatic upgrade so far.

My other 67 coupe is a rotisserie restore with little expense spared so I have something to compare to from stock to heavily upgraded suspension on a very similar car, side by side.
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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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JFStang I hear ya. I have a Honda Accord 'ricer' that has 80s and no problems with potholes. Laughs at em. My Audi now has 35s and sport suspension she's smooth as ice. Can take a good hit but one of those nasty potholes you couldn't touch bottom on if you reached into it got me once. Rim survived, tire looked like you could pop it with your fingernail. I was so scared of it blowing I deflated it before I put on the spare. Roads here in VA are GREAT. However in the "People's Republic of Maryland" (as my Chinese boss called it, hilariously) there are some really forlorn roads like the one I mentioned.

Mustang run's 60's which is a good compromise. No issues there. Will have the Bilsteins on next week along with new leafs. Already soaking the bolts with my CRC Ultra Screwloose (best stuff ever gets anything moving). Amazingly though...like the rest of my undercarriage there is almost no rust....not even on the bolts and hardware. Though that does not mean they're not seized or corroded inside after half a century. I'm ready with air chisels, cutting wheels and even torches if needed.
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I just installed the Eaton 114 rear springs and the bilsteins. It truly rides like a new car between the springs and the bilsteins. Not only did it lift over an inch and almost come flush with the front....but the left rear shock was totally dead. Very happy with the new ride.

Only thing is that the L/R side vs RR is about 3/4" to an inch lower. This must be the way the car is at it's skelatal (frame) level because the worn suspension also had about the same disparity to the left side being lower.

Is there any way to shim up a leaf on one side about without going to a longer shackle?

So all in all we are about 27" even on the right sides, 26.25 on the L/R. 26.75 L/F (probably because of the drop on L/R. All new clamps, bolts, shackles and rubber installed. Tire pressure are all at 30 psi.
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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 11:56 PM
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Is there any way to shim up a leaf on one side about without going to a longer shackle?

So all in all we are about 27" even on the right sides, 26.25 on the L/R. 26.75 L/F (probably because of the drop on L/R. All new clamps, bolts, shackles and rubber installed. Tire pressure are all at 30 psi.
Make sure you are measuring from the center of the hub to the top of the wheel arch with equal pressure on level ground to get the most accurate reading. It is good to do so with the car as it will normally be loaded, as in fuel, spare tire, driver, etc. May need to put it on a good frame machine.
I don't think you could shim the spring at the spring plate instead of using a longer shackle. Whatever you do just do it SAFELY.

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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I've measured every which way. Hub to fender lip. Flat concrete floor to lip in multiple garages and the results are pretty much consistent. Even from old suspension to the new. Not sure why there is a 3/4" gap between left and right side. But putting one longer shackle on that side sounds like it would cause things to be a bit imbalanced. One guy suggested having the spring on that side professionally bent to bring it up that amount. I guess I'll have to talk to some suspension experts. The old leafs came off very easily. Nothing was rusted or seized.

I did install front Bilsteins today. No change in ride height but it did skew my alignment. It was time for a re-alignment anyhow with all this work. Might be the combined effects of new rear springs plus front shocks. The biggest thing is that the car also rides amazingly well though One of the old front shocks was completely dead and leaking it's fluid. The other very weak. All in all these Bilsteins were totally worth the money, hands down as were the new rear Eaton leafs. Rides like a new car.
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 05:34 AM
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Make sure that when you tighten up all the suspension bolts that the full weight of the vehicle is in the ground. If not, one side might end up higher than the other.
If necessary add some weight to the passenger side, then tighten up the bolts.
Most of these cars spent their entire life with only one person in the car. So the drivers side tends to naturally settle a bit lower.

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