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1968 Mustang Coupe, title says 9,691 original miles, need help...

2K views 29 replies 17 participants last post by  MustangGrande302 
#1 ·
OK, so I enjoy buying and selling and keeping classic vehicles, always have my eyes open. I found a 1969 Mustang Coupe (200ci) San Jose factory built mustang under a canopy and unfortunately under a tarp. The body was pretty straight but clearly had some minor rear end damage at one point. Everything looks factory original to include paint and interior. When I received the title, it read 9,691 original miles. The owner claims his father was the original owner, when he passed, he gave it to the guy I bought it from. He had intentions of fixing it up, but left it under the canopy and tarp for the last 20 or so years. Unfortunately, this allowed moisture to remain inside causing some surface rust on the dash and other interior parts. The drivers seat is torn and cracked near the top and close to the door where the sun got through, but otherwise the seats are not worn hardly at all from people sitting in them. Everything I can see appears to be consistent with the listed mileage, but CARFAX or any other independent company can not confirm the mileage because it's not a 17 digit VIN. The car was originally purchased and registered in California, but all of their records are purged after 9 years of inactivity. The vehicle was registered in Oregon in December 2001 and showed the correct mileage at that time as 9,691. Bottom line, I can not find any legitimate source to ultimately confirm the mileage. Can anyone from the "Vintage Mustang Forum" offer any advise? I brought the vehicle home, cleaned it up, had the starter rebuilt (using all the original casing) and I replaced the starter relay. Other than that, I have not done anything, but I plan to replace the underlayment, carpet and have the seats reupholstered. I don't know what to do with the vehicle, I'm afraid any modifications or upgrades could lower the value. I have no idea what the vehicle is worth in it's current condition, but I do know the value has everything to do with being able to justify the actual miles as original. Any feedback or advise is appreciated. I have included a couple pictures to give you an idea of the condition, I can provide more photos if necessary. Oh yes, she does run, smooth as silk, quiet and just purrs. I have not gone through the brakes, but it does shift through all gears and stops. Most lights appear to work, headlights, brake lights and running lights, blinkers are not currently working. I believe emergency brake is off, but release is stuck and does not move. Horn and wipers work. Thank you all in advance!
 

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#3 ·
You'll have to check with the concors crowd to be sure, but I think for a car with 9,000 miles (instead of 109,000) most or all of the wear items should still be the original Ford parts.

So I'd look at all the stuff you normally replace on a regular basis. Tires, belts, hoses, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, air filter, all that stuff.

I don't personally know how to identify if those parts are original 60s Ford pieces, but if you post some pictures of the markings I'm sure somebody around here can tell.
 
#4 ·
Welcome!

9,000 original miles is highly suspect.
 
#5 ·
Cleaned up nice,More pics of under the hood please and of the trunk mat---Looking for original low miles indicators. I can see what looks like a replacement rad cap already.
 
#6 ·
UHmmm- you say you have a title for a 69- I am sure thats a typo b/c what the pic shows is a 68. Assumng a typo then all wear parts should be Ford- like brake pedal rubber shouldn't be worn, radiator, water pump- (can't recall what yrs had nylon timing gears-my 69 did) Keys shouldn't be worn much
 
#8 ·
Under 10,000 original miles is a nice little thought, but no. The worn-clear-through-in-spots driver's seat alone tells a different story. The base '68 coupe I started with had 122K miles on it and the seats looked better than those. (I even sold the nice seat tracks from them to Wes, "mustang656man".)
On the bright side, given the overall condition it doesn't matter much anyway.
If most of that rust is just the surface only variety it's a nice starting point. :smile2:
 
#9 ·
When it comes to price/value the three main factors that I have seen present in high value cars include:

the car's provenance;
the car's condition;
and what exactly it is, feature and equipment wise.

While a low odometer reading is nice, whether it reflects the true mileage or not really does not have much to do with the value of that particular car in my opinion.

Starting with the car's provenance, complete ownership/registration history with credible documentation of servicing, maintenance, and repairs can add value, as can celebrity ownership/history.

Looking at the car's condition, that particular car has been neglected and the apparent condition, even after cleaning up a bit, is less than optimal. This becomes significant when the cost of refurbishing is factored into the conversation. Even if you are turning your own wrenches, I suggest that such a refurbishing will far exceed its finished value when completed.

What features and equipment are present is a big part of price/value for cars originally sold on an "a-la-carte" basis. Generally a rust free big block fully optioned fastback with a Marti report verifying the build will tend to be found at the upper end of the price/value spectrum. Unfortunately the collector market looks less covetously at a fairly unremarkable somewhat rusty 6 cylinder coupe that tends to hover at the lower end of the price/value spectrum.

Not sure what you paid for this car or what you think its value might be as it sits currently. IMHO, the value/price range would likely fall within the $5000-$15000 depending on the condition at time of sale and whether you are flipping it as-is or making repairs to enhance value.
 
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#10 ·
The title would only get the mileage listed when it was sold and then only for about 10 years before it gets marked EXEMPT. So what year is the title?

Yes to the wear items like brake shoes and plug wires, everything under the dizzy cap giving you a hint. Pedals should look nearly new. Door striker, rubber door stops, scuff plates.

I dont think the low miles will help much even if believed to be true because of the condition, not as much as if it had original paint with 10X the miles.
 
#12 ·
dzahm, yes, the 1969 in original post is a typo. I have a 1969 daily driver but the thread is about a 1968. Most have requested additional photos so I did my best at providing those. I'm emberassed as I have not completely finished cleaning it, especially the door jambs. The pedals to not appear to have much wear, just a little in bottom right of the gas petal. Drivers side carpet is a mess, but that is due to rot from water. If you look at the rubber where your heal would go, there is hardly any wear. Don't get me wrong, I am not an expert and I am not pressing the issue to insist this is a 9k mile car. I respect everyone's opinion on this post and I appreciate all the feedback. After looking at the updated pics, please let me know any further thoughts, suggestions. Thank you!
 

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#13 ·
additional photos
 

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#14 ·
final set of pics

I paid $1,300 for the car so I know I am in good shape. It runs smooth as can be, so whatever the mileage ends up being is mostly irrelevant to me because it still has great potential to be a daily driver. I just wanted to make sure, as much as possible, anything I did to it from this point forward did not ruin the value if it truly was a 9K mile car. I checked carfax and autocheck, neither can provide any vehicle history since its a pre 1981 vehicle (less than 17 digits). I called California DMV, they have no record of it, because anything inactive after 9 years is purged. The title came from California to Oregon in December of 2001. As far as my research has gone, there are no avenues out there to get any DMV and/or owner history prior to 2001.
 

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#15 ·
All I have done, other than cleaning, is oil and oil filter change, new fuel filter with additional fuel filter pre pump and the starter and relay as mentioned in the original post. I saved the original starter relay and fuel filter just in case they were the originals.
 
#17 ·
When new, these cars were driven. At 51 years old, Im guessing 200-300k on it.
 
#20 ·
Just FYI for when you go looking for parts later, that's not the original carb.

I think that's a Holley Model 1940. It's a common replacement for our six cylinders.

If it's running good for you keep using it. I just wanted to mention it in case you go to buy a rebuild kit or anything.
 
#21 ·
I'd like to thank everyone for their honest and accurate feedback. I guess I just got tunnel vision when I saw the title. I don't believe the previous owner was trying to pull a fast one or else the asking price would have been much higher, he just had no idea, not a car guy. I'm actually a little bit relieved because now I know I can do some basic cosmetic work to it to get it going as another daily driver. She will definitely need some TLC, but she will look great once all done, I think I may keep her and hand down to one of my grandkids. Thanks again, you all were great and I look forward to future conversations and reviewing forums as I pursue this project. Great site, great people! ;-)
 
#22 ·
The Certificate of Title is going to reflect the odometer reading at the time the title was issued. Since older vehicles had odometers only capable of going to 99,999, that was the most you'd see on the title. If it had turned over once, twice, etc., it would state the actual odometer reading but many states have a letter code or symbol that is usually printed next to the reading that refers to a "footnote" that says something like "Odometer reading exceeds manufacturers limits". They probably missed it on this one.
 
#23 ·
I have found in Georgia that DMV workers either know thier job or they should be selling pizzas or Kinney Shoes.
 
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#25 ·
Is Kinney shoes even still a thing?!...

I think public "service" employees are like that everywhere, either take pride in becoming a master of their craft or are worthless as teats on a turtle.
 
#24 ·
I wouldn't worry about it. I suspect the only time verifying low miles is important to value is if the car is spectacular cosmetic condition.

You got a great deal even if it had 209691 on it.

John
 
#28 ·
Yeah I do agree with most- thats more than 9k miles. I would guess 200K as my 69 had 106k miles and had much less wear.

That said- 1300 bucks is pretty good deal. I will take it for 1400 if you have remorse- LOL. I think thats gonna be a nice color combo and a nice little driver. Its gonna take a little cash and a whole lotta love. But most of what I saw was cosmetic. I wouldn't fuss over the miles- (it doesn't matter much for a 6 cyl- but the other side of the coin is you can drive it for a million miles and its still worth the same) Try that with a new mustang....
 
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