Help with wiring a PA Performance Alt in a 65 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Help with wiring a PA Performance Alt in a 65

I purchased the PA Performance 3G alt and regulator kit along with the heavy duty charging cable and have hit a snag with the wiring. It’s the infamous green/red wire hookup. I initially joined it to the original white wire coming from the stock feed that is designated for the FLD on the old alt terminal, and while the car starts, it doesn’t charge.

I started looking through wiring diagrams and videos on line for answers but none seem to work for me. I realized almost all the references are dealing with 66 and newer which don’t have the STA white with black stripe wire to contend with. Since I’m working on a 65 and the stock hookup utilizes this wire, is there somewhere it needs to go on the new 3G alt? Is that the cause of the problems?

Thanks
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:22 PM
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Did you find this diagram in your searches? it shows it working on a 65 mustang. Just look at the info in the top right section. That should help you out.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:28 PM
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You need to remove the old voltage regulator and all the wires that went to it can be removed or cut and insulated. As in not hooked up to anything and not be able to touch ground or each other.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I did, that’s probably the route I’ll try next. My hang up with it is it seems widely different than what the instructions call for and I would need to run the green/red wire from the alt to the regulator and tap the ignition wire tab.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Then what is the purpose of using PA performance’s voltage regulator to keep stock wiring? Or is that just for cars with the gauge and not the warning light?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:56 PM
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I missed the part where you purchased the regulator kit. I just installed a 3G alt just like the schematic showed with no kit. I would follow the instructions provided if you plan to use the kit and keep the regulator wiring.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 06:48 AM
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The PA Performance dummy regulator kit is designed to keep the amp gauge functional. If using a charge light, use the diagram above, and connect green/red to the original green/red that went to the I terminal at the old regulator.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:24 AM
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PA Performance will be happy to walk you through any problems you are having hooking up the 3G. They will probably tell you to ignore the wire colors and concentrate on what exactly the individual wire does. There have been numerous wire color changes through out the years and relying on the wire color alone will lead to problems. Here's a diagram that will wire a 3G into an early Ford electrical system.

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John

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 02:10 PM
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this might help:

Original Owner 69 Mach1
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for help guys. J Persons, you’re 100 percent right. I called PA today and the tech instructed me to ignore the wire colors. Basically to look for the wire with 12v coming from the regulator and ignition.

Being I’m at work and not in front of the car, I couldn’t really get into it with the PA rep. His advice makes sense, find the wire with 12v at the regulator and connect that to the green/red wire on the alt connector.

My question is... why wouldn’t one of the wires at the stock alternator plug on the passenger side carry the 12v? They’re coming from the regulator right?

Mach 1 driver- I’ve referneced that video tens of times figuring out what the difference is. It looks like that wiring harness for a 67 has 3 wires. FLD, BAT, and ground. My 65 has 4, the 3 plus a white/black for the stator. Plus his black is the bat wire but it runs through the connector, mine does not.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 06:55 PM
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I assume you bought the 3G alternator pigtail when you got the alternator.

The easiest solution for you is to remove the old 1G regulator.


With the engine off and the key on, find the wire that has 12 volts.


Connect that wire to the "I" terminal on the 3G.


Tape over any of the original wires that were going to the 1G regulator, except for the one mentioned above.


Connect a minimum 4 gauge cable from the alternator to the starter solenoid on the same post as the battery lead. Reference the drawing of the alternator in my earlier post.


Start the engine and with a volt meter, place a lead on the starter solenoid lug that is connected to the alternator. Ground the other lead and look at the volt meter, you should see between 14.3 and 14.7 volts

John

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:00 PM
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The wire you want to use to "excite" your new alternator is the GRN/RED wire going to the "I" terminal of your regulator plug. This wire comes from the Ignition Switch and has the alternator warning lamp (and bridge resistor) in-line.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
The wire you want to use to "excite" your new alternator is the GRN/RED wire going to the "I" terminal of your regulator plug. This wire comes from the Ignition Switch and has the alternator warning lamp (and bridge resistor) in-line.
Hey Woodchuck, I tried this yesterday and itís a no go. The green/red wire going to the original 1G regulator does not get 12v with the switch on, gets about 1v. I found the yellow wire does have 12v so I connected it to the green/red alternator wire and it worked! The alt was charging at around 14.3 volts. I drove around and ran some errands and all was good. That was until today when I tried to start the car and it was dead. After some poking around I realized I didnít check the yellow wire for 12v with the key off... once the battery was charged I rechecked and sure enough itís hot all the time, which probably explains why the battery died. At least I know the alternator does work with 12v, my question now is can I use any 12v switched source to excite it? Should I run a wire from a switched source in the car to the engine bay and connect it to the green/red wire on the alt?

Lastly, Iím surprised everyone who Iíve read install one of these is able to use a pre-existing wire from the old regulator connector and I for some reason canít. Iím thinking maybe this is a 65 year model only circumstance and has to do with using the white/black stator wire? It seems to be the only difference I see between my car and other newer years that donít have that wire, any other theories?

Thanks!
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