Door hinge plate(inside door) - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Door hinge plate(inside door)

So I have a new reproduction door shell for this 66 coupe...and lo and behold, it is somehow missing the lower hinge plate(this is the plate inside the door shell itself). I do have the old door I am transferring all the hardware from...but does anyone know offhand how to remove and install one of these internal door hinge plates. From what I can tell they are loose and move around for adjustment, so they must sit inside some type of bracket system, but I haven't yet been able to get a good look to see how I can remove the plate(and conversely install it) without messing anything up. To make matters worse, one of the old bolts broke off when I removed the hinge from the old door...which makes it so I cant easily slide the plate out since the stub of the bolt is still protruding into the hole in the door shell. I also can seem to find these plates aftermarket, so buying a new one may not be an option(though I suppose I can fabricate a new one easily enough if I need to...but I need an old plate to work from to do that.

P.S. In this picture its the little V shaped plate in the upper left.
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Last edited by wicked93gs; 05-22-2019 at 11:21 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:51 PM
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Can you stick a camera or your phone inside the door and take a picture?

I just checked the picture I took of my '67s door internals and it looks completely different so that's no help, but if you can get a shot inside your own door you might be able to see what's holding it.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:00 PM
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They sit in a pocket with a small metal tab bent over to hold them in place. Bend the tab and slip them out- no problem
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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They sit in a pocket with a small metal tab bent over to hold them in place. Bend the tab and slip them out- no problem
heh, I just tried that....but my arm cant fit all the way back even in an empty shell, so I have no idea how I am going to replace it once I get it out. Does anyone know if they sell these inside plates/brackets anywhere? On the off-chance I cant get this one out(or am unable to remove the broken bolt).
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:08 PM
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You could try to use one of those socket set flexible joints and attach it to your drill. You could use it to try and drill out the bolt. If not, you could try looking for a broken bolt removal tool if they have one.

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:12 PM
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My second option for you is to get something called a vibra tool. Dewalt's tool uses a blade attached to it that is changeable and vibrates to cut things. Here's a picture!
https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/...t2G-icpEx_.JPG

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I got the plate out...now I just have to deal with the broken bolt(shouldn't be too big an issue, sprayed it with WD40 and in a few hours I will torch it, with luck that will do the trick). The bigger concern is how I am going to manage to get this thing in the new shell when the tip of my longest finger is still an inch away from where in needs to sit, guess I need to find someone with smaller arms to help me out on the install.


P.S. On another note....I should almost certainly take the opportunity to rebuild the hinges. Anyone have a good source for just the bushings? I dont need pins or springs or any of the rest of it since all those are in decent shape.
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Last edited by wicked93gs; 05-22-2019 at 03:58 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:58 PM
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Nice job on getting that plate out! If your method for the broken bolt doesn't work, I should say to try and get one of those vibra tools I mentioned. Another option would be to try and get it out with pliers, dremel, or a drill of some kind.

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 06:43 PM
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Well, I got the plate out...now I just have to deal with the broken bolt(shouldn't be too big an issue, sprayed it with WD40 and in a few hours I will torch it, with luck that will do the trick). The bigger concern is how I am going to manage to get this thing in the new shell when the tip of my longest finger is still an inch away from where in needs to sit, guess I need to find someone with smaller arms to help me out on the install.


P.S. On another note....I should almost certainly take the opportunity to rebuild the hinges. Anyone have a good source for just the bushings? I dont need pins or springs or any of the rest of it since all those are in decent shape.
I find it cheaper just to replace the hinges as a full set is around $100. The rebuild kits are roughly the same. Not sure on a good source of quality bushings. I used to make my own bushings for doors when I had access to a lathe as the help brand ones (generic not mustang specific)are really cheap material and don't fit well.
Had I still had access to a mill and lathe I might try roller bearings next time. They can be had in the sizes for door hinges from aircraft suppliers but bushings are generally longer lasting in this application as they have more area to spread the load.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 09:05 PM
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sprayed it with WD40 and in a few hours I will torch it, with luck that will do the trick

The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacing. In other words it's intended use is to displace water. It is NOT a penetrating oil so you are wasting your time spraying it on a rusted bolt.
Heating the stub of the bolt red hot and twisting it with vise grips is the way to get it out. If there is not enough bolt to grab with vise grips then sit a 3/8" nut over the stub and weld the stub to the inside of the nut. The welding may heat it enough to remove. If not, heat the nut and the stub red hot and then use a box end wrench or socket on the nut.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacing. In other words it's intended use is to displace water. It is NOT a penetrating oil so you are wasting your time spraying it on a rusted bolt.
Heating the stub of the bolt red hot and twisting it with vise grips is the way to get it out. If there is not enough bolt to grab with vise grips then sit a 3/8" nut over the stub and weld the stub to the inside of the nut. The welding may heat it enough to remove. If not, heat the nut and the stub red hot and then use a box end wrench or socket on the nut.
Well, I couldn't find my propane torch(not sure how long I would have to heat it with that thing anyway), so I defaulted to my trusty TIG torch to heat it up...it worked anyway, vicegrips pulled it right out after that. I sprayed it with a quick coat of paint...didnt bother to make it very pretty since it is literally a piece you cant see even if you wanted to...will chase the threads and try to find a way to install it tomorrow...on a 66 there are 2 holes big enough to get your hand into...and neither one is even close to that side of the door....they didn't exactly consider in-door maintenance when they designed it...obviously these things were installed before the door skin ever went on originally.


P.S. The lighting in my garage is pretty bad, so no pictures I take out there at night come out very well unless I use my droplight
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Last edited by wicked93gs; 05-22-2019 at 10:38 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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I did get the plate in the new door...couldn't reach back there so I hung the plate by the big hole on the handle of my channel locks and kinda angled the bottom hole into place, then used a bolt to pull it the rest of the way into alignment...was a real pain, but good to know its possible...now I just need to rebuild the hinges(or buy new ones) and transfer all the door hardware over.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:04 PM
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They say the opposite of disassembling is reassembling, but it may not be entirely true. Hope it goes together smoothly!

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

1970 Ford Mustang Grande 302 V8

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