suspension upgrades - Page 5 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #61 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Seabseattle View Post
Hi all,

I just picked up my 65' coupe from the local mustang shop to find out that ALL my suspension is worn out and needs replacement. This car is being built to be a budget minded daily driver so I don't need racing/track pieces. I want quality handling parts, but nothing overboard. So I am now shopping suspension parts from sway bar to brushings. Just wanted to get opinions on what pieces I should spend money on? Where should I spend money and where can I save money? What parts are most important, etc.?

Thanks all,
Sea
I wish you were local to me in Fort Worth. I have a bunch of opentracker parts - upper and lower control arms, roller spring perches, strut rod and sway bar bushings, sway bar, export brace, Monte Carlo bar, and rear leafs that I’d LOVE to get rid of.

Let me know if you are interested. I’m going to CL them pretty soon. Can send pics this weekend.

Oh, they are all brand new, never installed.
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post #62 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:06 PM
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CPP custom performance parts. I like there products made in USA here in SoCal
I installed there tubular UCA LCA did there rack and Pinion set up. Subframe connectors
Upgraded lower cross member supports
Middle of the road pricing. Did the Shelby drop and Bilstein Sport shocks. On my 65 fastback. Hope this input helps you find your way.
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post #63 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Palo Alto Car Guy View Post
The Shelby drop is absolutely not required. Mustangs with stock suspension (not old worn out components) will perform fine as a daily driver. To say otherwise is just plain wrong. No one mentioned that drilling holes in your shock towers could result in cracks, if they’re not cracked already? He asked for budget options and admitted not having much mechanic experience and you want him to do the drop and add Konis or Bilsteins? Roller perches? C’mon, be real. My advice is replace the stock components and drive the car.
We are being real.

The changes to the suspension geometry of the Arning drop are well documented and have proven effective for decades now. The handling on these cars back then was considered substandard at the time let alone now. Yep they can be driven with stock components but it's probably not going to be as pleasurable for those that are used to driving a late model car. I suppose if the purpose is to replicate something that wasn't that good even in its time replacing to full stock suspension would be a way to go.

If the towers are cracked they need to be replaced. The additional holes will not in and of themselves cause that panel to crack. That's not only shown by anecdotal evidence from those that have done the mod but also by the mechanics and engineering of the structure of the panel and the impact two holes would have in it. Of course if you have some engineering data or models to support the cracking I'd love to see them.

I would agree that roller perches and uni ball strut rod are probably a bit too much for this one.
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post #64 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:41 PM
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Aside from fixing bushings and shocks that are completely shot, the Shelby Drop is still the smartest thing you can do to your car. Despite the dire warnings of some other people here, I have never seen the shock towers crack because of the extra holes.

The difference in handling, vs. the time and 'cost' involved? Best modification ever, and unless you just want to sit with your car and sip tea at car shows instead of driving, you should do it.
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post #65 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:25 PM
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Just had installed Ridetech StreetGrip kit. Admittedly, I probably should have read more here about suspension upgrades before purchasing, but I liked that the kit used a simple wedge for the upper control arms and the shocks are adjustable. No cutting or drilling required (except for 3 bolt holes in trunk for re-located driver's side rear shock mount. Whatever it is, my '67 now handles and feels great! Now just need to tighten up the steering.
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post #66 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:28 PM
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Oh, and replaced upper shock tower mounts on front.
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post #67 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tom991 View Post
Make sure the alignment shop that you take your car to will align it according to the Shelby specs. I had a shop tell me that since it's not in the book he won't align the car to the specs on my paper. Apparently his book didn't cover GT350s or Shelby Mustangs. I went elsewhere.

Also what I did when I drilled mine is, I dropped a piece of 1/4" plywood between the shock tower and the motor so not to accidently damage spark plug wires and any thing else that long 17/32" drill bit could get ahold of.
What are the specs that I should communicate with the alignment place? Is it enough to just say "shelby drop"?
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post #68 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mjzimet View Post
Just had installed Ridetech StreetGrip kit. Admittedly, I probably should have read more here about suspension upgrades before purchasing, but I liked that the kit used a simple wedge for the upper control arms and the shocks are adjustable. No cutting or drilling required (except for 3 bolt holes in trunk for re-located driver's side rear shock mount. Whatever it is, my '67 now handles and feels great! Now just need to tighten up the steering.
I was thinking about trying to say about $1,500-2,000 for now... but will that extra $500 really make that big of a difference?
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post #69 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by texasyeti View Post
I wish you were local to me in Fort Worth. I have a bunch of opentracker parts - upper and lower control arms, roller spring perches, strut rod and sway bar bushings, sway bar, export brace, Monte Carlo bar, and rear leafs that Iíd LOVE to get rid of.

Let me know if you are interested. Iím going to CL them pretty soon. Can send pics this weekend.

Oh, they are all brand new, never installed.
Hit me up about the parts. Would be glad to hear more!
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post #70 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Palo Alto Car Guy View Post
The Shelby drop is absolutely not required. Mustangs with stock suspension (not old worn out components) will perform fine as a daily driver. To say otherwise is just plain wrong. No one mentioned that drilling holes in your shock towers could result in cracks, if theyíre not cracked already? He asked for budget options and admitted not having much mechanic experience and you want him to do the drop and add Konis or Bilsteins? Roller perches? Címon, be real. My advice is replace the stock components and drive the car.
She.
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post #71 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Guidos65FastBack View Post
CPP custom performance parts. I like there products made in USA here in SoCal
I installed there tubular UCA LCA did there rack and Pinion set up. Subframe connectors
Upgraded lower cross member supports
Middle of the road pricing. Did the Shelby drop and Bilstein Sport shocks. On my 65 fastback. Hope this input helps you find your way.
Thanks for the info. I think the tubular UCA might be a little much of an upgrade for this first round. Hopefully can get some in the future though.
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post #72 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:45 PM
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What are the specs that I should communicate with the alignment place? Is it enough to just say "shelby drop"?
https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/


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post #73 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by vegasloki View Post
We are being real.

The changes to the suspension geometry of the Arning drop are well documented and have proven effective for decades now. The handling on these cars back then was considered substandard at the time let alone now. Yep they can be driven with stock components but it's probably not going to be as pleasurable for those that are used to driving a late model car. I suppose if the purpose is to replicate something that wasn't that good even in its time replacing to full stock suspension would be a way to go.

If the towers are cracked they need to be replaced. The additional holes will not in and of themselves cause that panel to crack. That's not only shown by anecdotal evidence from those that have done the mod but also by the mechanics and engineering of the structure of the panel and the impact two holes would have in it. Of course if you have some engineering data or models to support the cracking I'd love to see them.

I would agree that roller perches and uni ball strut rod are probably a bit too much for this one.
I was with ya right up till your last line


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post #74 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Palo Alto Car Guy View Post
The Shelby drop is absolutely not required. Mustangs with stock suspension (not old worn out components) will perform fine as a daily driver. To say otherwise is just plain wrong. No one mentioned that drilling holes in your shock towers could result in cracks, if theyíre not cracked already? He asked for budget options and admitted not having much mechanic experience and you want him to do the drop and add Konis or Bilsteins? Roller perches? Címon, be real. My advice is replace the stock components and drive the car.
I disagree completely. The guy is already pulling the shocks, compressing the springs, and pulling the UCAs to change them with new parts. The arning drop at this point is a no-brainer. The arning drop is not merely a performance enhancement, it also makes the car safer to drive, which for a daily driver makes a great deal of sense. Roller spring perches and premium shocks also make the car safer to drive by keeping the rubber in more constant contact with the asphalt, which is also important for a daily driver.

As far as his being a novice mechanic, I'm a disabled, self professed mechanical idiot. If I can manage steering and suspension upgrades to make my vehicle safer to drive, then I would think that pretty much any fully functional, reasonably intelligent person can do the same.

Sorry, just read the above. Please change pronouns to the female.
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post #75 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:51 PM
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To your question of whether the additional $500 is worth getting the Ridetech kit, I can't say. I suspect that with right parts, knowledge and labor, my car's ride could have been obtained less expensively. However, since I have neither the knowledge or time for the labor, I liked that this kit was all inclusive. Like others posted, good shocks are pricey. These were $185 each if purchased separately. Add in the Delrin bushings, sway bar, progressive coils and light weight composite leaf springs, it adds up.
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