I got the dreaded solvent pop - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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I got the dreaded solvent pop

It was hotter than I had anticipated and got hotter the further along I went. I glanced up at my thermometer I have hanging in my paint cube and it said over 100, 105 I think. Well, even with the slow activator it is not recommended to go above 90 and I didn't have any slow activator.



The paint laid down like black glass so I went in to town. When I got back it had a fairly uniform blanket of little raised dots all over the paint and the dots are raised such that I can feel them just barely. They are tiny little dots. The paint has set up so now they are there there now now. To borrow from the late great Dr. Smith, oh the pain.


So what do I do? I have never had a solvent pop before. I am guessing it will involve wet sanding but won't sanding these dots off create little craters then? It does look like it was the last coat but hard to tell for sure. I have 4 coat on it and I did wait plenty of time between coats but by the time the 4th coat was put down it was over 100.


I just don't know what to do.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 05-25-2019 at 01:14 AM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:10 AM
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If it was my car I'd wet sand ALL of it off. In your temps, it's probably better to do your painting at night.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:51 AM
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I'm facing the same thing, yesterday it was 93 here, it will be much hotter in the shop. I'm thinking about starting spraying paint at about 3 AM, when its only around 85
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:46 AM
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I HATE that, I laid a perfectly glass final clear coat on a TR6. I could not believe I personally shot that coat, just walked around and around the car till I decided to close the shop so nothing could happen. Came out the next morning and there were living flies all over stuck like flypaper in the clear coat. I had to sand the entire coat off. Unfortunately, I think that is the answer you were hoping not to get.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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I have a quart of slow activator on order and slow urethane reducer. Comments on this particular paint recommended shooting it 3 to 1 to 1 to thin it so it will flow out better. To make my solvent pop worse my reducer was mid temp also.



I figured I would be wet sanding it down but I am not sure what grit range I should use for this. The finest I have right now is 400.


My other challenge I just discovered is that my tight tolerance rear fiberglass bumper looks like somebody blasted it with air soft bb's. It came out of the mold that way. I didn't see it much until I got the epoxy on it.



Would I be able to smooth that out with filler primer or should I just skim coat the entire thing with 2 part glazing putty? I have some that is very nice and creamy that I picked up.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 05-25-2019 at 12:07 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 12:34 PM
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If the divots aren't deep, you can try the glazing putty. Which bumper did you go with? I have the Maier one, The fiberglass is good but the mounting is not to my liking. It also had a scooped out area in the center, near where the gas cap is. I filled it in.

John

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'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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I think my bumper is the Maier one also and it was very early production. The 4 glassed in studs are, well interesting. I put small flat washers on both sides of the tail panel which helps protect the car a bit. If you spray the outside ones body color they are not noticable at all. I had to fill in around the 2 center studs with JBweld because they were trying to come loose.


I had to put fiberglass filler on the left end of mine so it would fit the quarter panel contour. The other side lined up fine. Mine doesn't have anything for the gas cap. It is just straight and flat across the top with the notch out for the license plate on the center bottom. I looked back on the website and the close up's they show now are all carbon fiber. Is your bumper carbon fiber?


I went and got some 800 and 1000 wet or dry so I will begin to try and un-dot the underside of my deck lid as soon as the paint is cured enough. Oh joy. I just love sanding(not really). The irony of it all is that today it is only in the mid 80's outside.


Considering the shape of the bumper a regular filler spreader doesn't work very well. I'm seriously considering putting my gloves on and just smearing it like finger paint, LOL. I think that will actually work. These indents are just noticable and with a gloss black bumper they will be noticable.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
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Last edited by macstang; 05-25-2019 at 01:36 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 02:29 PM
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I painted a 65 coupe junker I picked up about 5-6 mos ago last Saturday and by 930-10 am I got love bugs all over sticking to it, if I painted it black they would not show up but being red it looks pretty bad and then had a visit from code enforcement telling me its illegal to paint ect in my driveway. Just was not my day. Wes
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macstang View Post
I think my bumper is the Maier one also and it was very early production. The 4 glassed in studs are, well interesting. I put small flat washers on both sides of the tail panel which helps protect the car a bit. If you spray the outside ones body color they are not noticable at all. I had to fill in around the 2 center studs with JBweld because they were trying to come loose.


I had to put fiberglass filler on the left end of mine so it would fit the quarter panel contour. The other side lined up fine. Mine doesn't have anything for the gas cap. It is just straight and flat across the top with the notch out for the license plate on the center bottom. I looked back on the website and the close up's they show now are all carbon fiber. Is your bumper carbon fiber?


I went and got some 800 and 1000 wet or dry so I will begin to try and un-dot the underside of my deck lid as soon as the paint is cured enough. Oh joy. I just love sanding(not really). The irony of it all is that today it is only in the mid 80's outside.


Considering the shape of the bumper a regular filler spreader doesn't work very well. I'm seriously considering putting my gloves on and just smearing it like finger paint, LOL. I think that will actually work. These indents are just noticable and with a gloss black bumper they will be noticable.
My bumper is fiberglass. I knew there would be a likelihood of having to fill and sand the bumper, I opted for the less expensive one. I didn't like the stud mounting, so I zipped them off and fabricated some mounts that would attach in the factory location. They will be glued into the bumper using 3M panel adhesive.

John

The Fauxstang. Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart SHP 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
F-150 SCab daily driver
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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I like your bumper brackets. I considered that but went with the 4 holes. I wasn't sure how I could set up the brackets and still have the bumper be a tight tolerance fit.



Well, after pulling down a hay stick sized pile of briars off my chain link fence and cutting back this springs crop of new bush and tree limb growth that didn't need to be there I sat down and wet sanded the bottom of my deck lid with 1000 grit. It is a nice shade of dull now but smooth. I decided since I'm going to re-spray it that I should prep it with scotch brite so I did that. I still have my portable parts spray boot out and the outside thermometer I have up in there read 110 by 4:30 pm or so. Due to the out gas time for solvents I will have to spray this thing kind of early in the morning and put it up somewhere in a shade before it gets so hot or I may get another pop problem. Any metal that sits out in the sun now gets so hot I can't pick it up.



Spraying the underside of my deck lid has been something of a warm up to learning everything I need to learn for spraying my car with this paint. Better to find the solvent pop problem on the bottom of my deck lid than having it cover the roof of my car.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:49 AM
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I've only painted one car so I'm far from an expert. I used SPI products and, based on talking with SPI tech support, I would suggest you go with EXTRA slow reducer. As far as I'm aware, the only disadvantage to slow reducers is increased flash time. That's a problem for a production shop, but not for a home, hobby painter.

My area is warm and very dry in the summer. I used slow reducer because the temps were under 80 degrees. For warmer weather, SPI recommended extra slow reducer.

Just before I painted my car I was at the local paint store buying sand paper. I ran into a coworker who was there lamenting he shot his car the day before and, you guessed it, he had solvent pop. Warm weather plus dry air equals solvent pop.

If I was in your situation, I would paint early in the morning AND use extra slow reducer. Painting is just too much work to take chances.

In case you haven't seen it, I would suggest you read the "Perfect Paint Job" article on the SPI web site. You might find a few helpful tips.

Good luck!

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macstang View Post
It was hotter than I had anticipated and got hotter the further along I went. I glanced up at my thermometer I have hanging in my paint cube and it said over 100, 105 I think. Well, even with the slow activator it is not recommended to go above 90 and I didn't have any slow activator.



The paint laid down like black glass so I went in to town. When I got back it had a fairly uniform blanket of little raised dots all over the paint and the dots are raised such that I can feel them just barely. They are tiny little dots. The paint has set up so now they are there there now now. To borrow from the late great Dr. Smith, oh the pain.


So what do I do? I have never had a solvent pop before. I am guessing it will involve wet sanding but won't sanding these dots off create little craters then? It does look like it was the last coat but hard to tell for sure. I have 4 coat on it and I did wait plenty of time between coats but by the time the 4th coat was put down it was over 100.


I just don't know what to do.
I'm sure you know there are a lot of variables here considering the temp and product choices...I am only assuming that you are in basecoat now as I didn't see any mention of clear...is that correct?

In the heat you are experiencing the only time of day that I would spray the car is probly around 4-5am...it has given the ambient heat from the day before a chance to dissipate and you can control that aspect of the concern.
You MUST use proper activators and hardeners developed for the temp! That is an absolute! IMHO
"plenty of time between coats" is not a measurement of time...painting is a precise art/science and you need to arm yourself with everything you can to put yourself in winning situation.

When it is hot we always put a piece of metal in the booth and wait til it "feels" the same temp as the car. After Every coat of basecoat is sprayed and timed we feel the car and compare it to the metal in the booth. The solvents in the paint will create a "cooling effect" until dissolved. Once the two metals feel the same temp it is ready for another coat.
The only way to fix it is to sand with 600-800, epoxy sealer and start over... again...JMO...I've laid some paint here and there...

Do yourself a solid and set your alarm clock for 3:30 am and spray it after and before the extreme heat is a factor...
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:19 PM
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I was hoping that @69bosssvt would respond, since he is up on the latest materials. I think macs issue is with the clear since he mentioned using activator. I thought if he was able to level the the clear and still have some material left over the base he could just re-spray his clear. That is proving he uses a fine enough grit to level the finish and not leave sand scratches once the clear is re-sprayed.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:45 PM
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Solvent pop in clear....use 320 or 400 going to have to sand it ALL off in the areas affected. I learned a trick that worked once when my production painter had a bad case of solvent pop for similar reasons...we sanded the areas of the pop...prepped the surface opened the fluid up and put a slow "heavy" coat over it...the new coat possibly "married" with the previous coat and softened it enough to let the solvent escape...only did it once but it DID work...more than likely you will have to sand/strip and redo ALL the clear, you can't scuff it and re clear it.....in the morning.....EARLY morning....
I usually like to spray a "mist" first coat...followed by regular coats when it's hot... just my 2cents...
I feel ya tho this stuff sucks after working so hard to get to this point...
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 03:00 PM
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I use this as a filler/primer for situations like your bumper... 400 wet
https://www.martinsenour-autopaint.c...rimer-surfacer


Last edited by 69bosssvt; 05-26-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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