Why does my upper radiator hose keep blowing off? - Page 5 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #61 of 65 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by j persons View Post
I used that thermostat housing port to plumb in the thermal switch for the electric fans. It works well at that location and a side benefit is that you can tell when the thermostat opens by when the fans turn on, if you have sized the temp switch to the thermostat. You should always drill a 1/8" hole in the lip of the thermostat, and position the hole upper most. This will allow the cooling system to burp itself. Some Ford thermostats come with the hole already drilled.
Thanks, while i did get the thermostat housing with the temp sensor on top, i also picked up a 90 degree heater hose fitting that had a shut off in the top of it that Im running the gauge temp sensor out of. I found that idea in another thread...credit goes to @Woodchuck :-D. The sniper is still on the inboard side. The fans are controlled by the Sniper since it's getting pure radiator temp. I have them set to start at 180 and 200 (dual fans). I think i'm going to increase the #1 fan start to 190. It kicked on once this morning and that was it.
The thermostat I switched to is a high flow with 3 bleed ports built in so no drilling required for bleeding this time.

I also noticed I have a small leak on the thermostat housing but, that's an easy resolve. More irritating than anything really. Against my better judgement, I used the paper gasket skim coated with RTV. Usually i use Hondabond or RTV and ignore the gasket.
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post #62 of 65 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
This has been a good read. One thing to remember is that any restriction in diameter of a hose is squared when it comes to the crossectional area so a small diameter change can turn into a large area change which is what is relevant to flow. You had a large restriction so teh area your car was left with was dismal. Personally, I would pull that spring from the upper hose, its only restricting things both from a slight decrease in crossectional area but also from a laminar flow point of view. IT will be better without it and may help with your resting temperature when the water pump is running slow.
I hope folks get some benefit out of my pain with this one lol. I was getting REALLY tired of cleaning antifreeze off the car.

At the recommendations in the thread, I pitched the universal hoses and managed to find a hose for a 71 mustang that had the proper bends and fitting. So i'm running a legit hose now. The lower hose is still a 'universal' but has the spring in it. I'll probably swap that out at some point in the future.
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post #63 of 65 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
"...... i think i might have to bump the thermostat up to a 190 or 195 but i'm going to observe it for awhile and see. I also am curious to see what effect the AC has on it.
note: it bears pointing out that the thermostat, of any heat rating, does NOT set the high temperature of an engine. It will only regulate the low end temperature. As previously mentioned, you need a 190 series thermostat in order to get the engine up to the FORD DESIGNED operating temperature as fast as possible in order to minimize the effects of water condensation in the oil.

Once the car has been driven for 15 minutes or so, the high temperature is only regulated by engine horsepower, the cooling capacity of the water pump, and the radiator size.

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Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
"...... Oil temp didn't break 110...
is that fahrenheit or centigrade ? 110 F is woefully low, and sounds like a sensor is giving a faulty reading. The oil temperature needs to be at least 200 - 212 in order for all the water condensation to be expelled.


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Last edited by zray; 06-14-2019 at 10:28 AM.
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post #64 of 65 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Fahrenheit although I dont think it's going to be overly accurate since it's sticking in the top of the oil pan.

I'm probably going to get a 190 since I'm going to order some new wires anyway...changing the routing / design. Anyway. I still want to observe it since the engine is significantly bigger (408) than the old one.
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post #65 of 65 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tom991 View Post
I had a chrome Mr Gasket housing that never sealed properly where it mated to the intake. I tried using the Mr Gasket gasket because it was thicker than the Felpro gasket which leaked too after a few weeks, RTV didn't solve the problem either. The only way I could get the leak to stop was to go back to an original style housing.

I've seen them leak on that side too. Apparently they just were not made well.


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