Understanding the 1965 Gear Shifter - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 11:12 PM
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There’s a really simple operational way to deal with the “what do I have” question and just driving in general.

It’s designed to default to the normal “drive” position. When you press the button and pull it past reverse heading towards neutral, let go of the button and pull straight back. It will stop at (1-2-3) Drive.

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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rui-1975 View Post
What do I look for to work out which valve body I have?

1966 289 Auto Coupe
The only difference is the notches on the side of the housing that locks the shifter in gear.

Look at this picture of a 65/66 shifter.


You can see the rail that the shifter locks into to set a gear. From the front (right side) it is locked in park. Pressing the button allows it to lift up and move back into reverse. You can see if the shifter is moved back it will slide into the next gear without the button being pressed. This long slot is actually for both Dotted gears. The front half is the small dot for ice driving. The rear half is the green dot for normal driving. You can move between these two gears any time by sliding the shifter forward or back. Pressing the button again allows you to move the shifter all the way back to the low gear. You can see that pushing the shifter forward from this gear will allow the shifter to move back into the area with the dots.

Now look at this 67 style shifter



It is similar, but instead of the large area for the two dotted gears, it has a smaller area for the standard ‘Drive’ gear, and two raised gears at the back for Low and 2. The only other difference is the two welded brackets. They are for 67/68 cars with consoles. Non console cars don’t have them. If you find or buy one of theses, simply cut off the brackets and you are all set..

Looking at these you can see why there is a problem with using a late valve body with the early shifter. The shifter will not hold the transmission in the drive position. Instead it will allow it to slip back into 2nd gear.
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Last edited by Flade; 06-11-2019 at 12:11 AM.
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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 03:08 AM
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If you are holding down the shifter button, you can feel each detent inside the transmission, without feeling the shifter contacting any of the notches in the shift plate below. Ordinarily, without bonking the shifter or pushing on it, it will not slip between gears even if you have the early style shifter plate that is 'flat' between little dot and big dot.

The shifter detent plate just adds a bit of safety. You can push forward from D (or little dot) and get into Neutral, but you can't accidentally get into Reverse. You have to press the button to get to Reverse, and again to get it to Park. The same holds true as you are trying to shift to lower gears. The early style notches allow you to shift between D and 2 (or little dot-big dot) without ever pressing the shift button, but the '67+ style has a detent between each lower gear, so you couldn't accidentally grab 2nd (or 1st). You can, however, slip from 1st to 2nd to D, to N, without pressing the button down. You'll still feel the transmission as its little internal 'rooster comb' clicks through the gears, whether you are holding the button down or not.
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Last edited by Grimbrand; 06-11-2019 at 03:10 AM.
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 10:14 AM
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OK, now I have to take a good look at my console tonight and see what I have. I've always driven it at the spot just after N, and it shifts twice (starting in 1 then 2 then 3). I've also found that if I shift to L it will shift thru to 3. It's been rebuilt twice over the years that I know of, so maybe the rebuild made it that way.
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pony Gaz View Post
I found this on my hard drive & hope it helps someone.

So what was it you found on your hard drive Pony Gaz?

64-1/2 MUSTANG RESTOMOD
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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT View Post
You are correct, the small dot eliminates 1st gear to reduce wheelspin in mud, snow, and rain. Yes, with the original tires, you could spin the wheels in the rain even with a six-cylinder engine.

P
R
N

O
L

Low shifts the trans down to whatever is the next gear down. I can tell you this system actually works very well, but has always led to confusion.
That is the craziest thing I've seen lately. I had to go home and look at the owner's manual (for a '66) to confirm...
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:11 AM
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Flade is right. The Shifter housing has to match the Valve Body in order to work right..

)

Tony K.



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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:36 PM
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[QUOTE=NEFaurora;10176662]Confusing!?? If you look closely at the 2nd (Big Dot), There is a little "Green-Dot" inside a Big White Circle right above the "L" (Low Gear). That's the one that you need to DRIVE on.

I just had my C4 drained, flushed, filter cleaned, and a new shift kit installed by my local tranny shop which has been in business over 60 years. I'm not saying you're wrong, but my shop owner, who has rebuilt these since they first came out, told me emphatically that the "little" dot , NOT the big green one, is the correct selection for the tranny to shift up through all gears in the 64.5 through 66 models. The big greenie drops and holds it in 2nd, and of course low is well -- low. I tried it today after the rework and he's absolutely right. I put my shifter at the little dot, stomped the gas, and laid some nice rubber while Diane was shifting up nicely. He also told me that the 67s and later had the big greenie as the drive position. So I'm staying with my tranny guru.
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flade View Post
The only difference is the notches on the side of the housing that locks the shifter in gear.

Look at this picture of a 65/66 shifter.


You can see the rail that the shifter locks into to set a gear. From the front (right side) it is locked in park. Pressing the button allows it to lift up and move back into reverse. You can see if the shifter is moved back it will slide into the next gear without the button being pressed. This long slot is actually for both Dotted gears. The front half is the small dot for ice driving. The rear half is the green dot for normal driving. You can move between these two gears any time by sliding the shifter forward or back. Pressing the button again allows you to move the shifter all the way back to the low gear. You can see that pushing the shifter forward from this gear will allow the shifter to move back into the area with the dots.

Now look at this 67 style shifter



It is similar, but instead of the large area for the two dotted gears, it has a smaller area for the standard ‘Drive’ gear, and two raised gears at the back for Low and 2. The only other difference is the two welded brackets. They are for 67/68 cars with consoles. Non console cars don’t have them. If you find or buy one of theses, simply cut off the brackets and you are all set..

Looking at these you can see why there is a problem with using a late valve body with the early shifter. The shifter will not hold the transmission in the drive position. Instead it will allow it to slip back into 2nd gear.
So from the feel of it (I only need to push the button in to go from R to N, and then from big dot to L) I have the 65/66 shifter.
However, when I'm driving, the little dot takes me through 3 gears; the big dot only through 2 gears.
To add to the confusion, it seems the big dot actually only takes me through 1st and 2nd, because after that Billie just revs higher without shifting into 3rd.
Mine seems to be set up like @DustoffMedic's. Were there different transmissions? Or has the PO swapped my transmission whilst keeping the same bezel?

Wtf?

1966 289 Auto Coupe

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Last edited by rui-1975; 06-12-2019 at 06:48 PM.
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:52 PM
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"Mine seems to be set up like @DustoffMedic's. Were there different transmissions? Or has the PO swapped my transmission whilst keeping the same bezel?"

Did you check the Ford Factory Tranny Mold Reverse Stampings and Date Coded Tranny Tag on the Transmission first?!??

If you haven't physically looked at the Transmission Casing, Then you are just "guessing"...

Crawl under the car, Take some pics with your camera phone and look as well...then report back..

)

Tony K.



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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
"Mine seems to be set up like @DustoffMedic's. Were there different transmissions? Or has the PO swapped my transmission whilst keeping the same bezel?"

Did you check the Ford Factory Tranny Mold Reverse Stampings and Date Coded Tranny Tag on the Transmission first?!??

If you haven't physically looked at the Transmission Casing, Then you are just "guessing"...

Crawl under the car, Take some pics with your camera phone and look as well...then report back..

)

Tony K.
will do! Thanks!.
I like that you called it a camera phone, which implies you are as old as I am!

1966 289 Auto Coupe

***
1966 Coupe, 289 C code, auto
- mostly stock except: Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold; Summit Racing 4 barrel 500cfm carburetor
- absolute amateur - willing to learn and work hard
***

Last edited by rui-1975; 06-12-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 08:03 PM
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So I managed to get a photo of the transmission tag, but it is pretty worn. (Attached)

From what I can gather, it is either C8 652 (which makes no sense) or C8 GS2 (which would imply it is from a 68 comet or mustang.

Am I on track? Is there anywhere else I can check? I confirmed that the small dot shifts through 1-2-3, and the big dot seems to stay on 2 (and if I shift from small dot to big dot it goes down to 2nd and stays there). Yet I can move between small dot and big dot without pressing the button.



1966 289 Auto Coupe

***
1966 Coupe, 289 C code, auto
- mostly stock except: Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold; Summit Racing 4 barrel 500cfm carburetor
- absolute amateur - willing to learn and work hard
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 11:31 AM
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The other thing that I noticed when I started paying attention, is the way the bezel 'highlights' with a raised line the places to shift. And without really trying, when I was out Tues night, it seemed to drop right into the green dot when coming down from R. I'll get a chance to see how the shifts are at the different spots this weekend.
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rui-1975 View Post
So from the feel of it (I only need to push the button in to go from R to N, and then from big dot to L) I have the 65/66 shifter.
However, when I'm driving, the little dot takes me through 3 gears; the big dot only through 2 gears.
To add to the confusion, it seems the big dot actually only takes me through 1st and 2nd, because after that Billie just revs higher without shifting into 3rd.
Mine seems to be set up like @DustoffMedic's. Were there different transmissions? Or has the PO swapped my transmission whilst keeping the same bezel?

Wtf?

1966 289 Auto Coupe
That’s exactly what mine did causing me no end of confusion until I realized I had a late model valve body, and an original 66 shifter. I swapped in a 67 shifter body, and not all is good.

Flade
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66 200 coupe Blue
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:40 AM
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That’s exactly what mine did causing me no end of confusion until I realized I had a late model valve body, and an original 66 shifter. I swapped in a 67 shifter body, and not all is good.
Well that got mangled by autocorrect. It should say “ I had a later model valve body, and an original shifter. I swapped in a 67 shifter body and all was good.”

Flade
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