convert alternator to 1-wire? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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convert alternator to 1-wire?

I saw this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reg...af73a69d363ce2


My existing alternator is working fine, but I'm installing an AAW wiring harness, and thus need a 1-wire alternator. Is this the easiest way for me to go?

1966 289 2V coupe with removeable hardtop roof
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 04:14 PM
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Are you using the Modern Update kit? If so, is it basically going to be stock? (Stock radio, headlights, mechanical fuel pump, fixed/clutch cooling fan, etc). If you plan on upgrading any electrical systems, I think you'd be better served with a 3G upgrade and adapter. It's what I've chosen to do with my AAW upgrade kit...if that means anything . Plus, if you're on the road and the regulator goes out, you can get a replacement at just about any auto parts store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Au...ss!64601!US!-1

That said, if it is a stock harness, or you have no immediate plans up upgrading electrical systems, what you suggest should be adequate in my opinion.

Just remember, the 1G alternator you have is probably around 55amps, so you don't really don't have any head space to work with...which includes upgrading headlights.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 04:39 PM
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I have that kit it looks like....
Seemed to work fine....




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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the recommendations. As I have upgraded the headlights to halogens, I have ordered a 1-wire 130 amp alternator.

1966 289 2V coupe with removeable hardtop roof
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:16 PM
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The 130a may be a little bit of overkill, but hey... I have a 100a 1 wire. I basically abandoned all the wiring running to the regulator, and install a 6awg wire from the alt to the battery side of the starter solenoid. You will also need to add a 10awg or better ground wire from the alternator body to the engine block. The only issue I've heard of with an alt. that big is that it's hard to get the belt tight enough to not squeal.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 01:07 AM
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This may help..

)

Tony K.
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File Type: jpg Ford One-Wire alternator '65-'70 Hookup.jpg (80.1 KB, 12 views)



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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Tony,
Is that diagram for the use of the original 3 wire alternator?


Thanks for your advice!

1966 289 2V coupe with removeable hardtop roof
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:16 AM
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I'm not Tony, but looks to me like it is for a 3-wire.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPOHara View Post
Thank you for the recommendations. As I have upgraded the headlights to halogens, I have ordered a 1-wire 130 amp alternator.
I hope you ordered a 2 belt pulley and another belt

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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The alternator has a two belt pulley. I will get the second belt!

1966 289 2V coupe with removeable hardtop roof
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPOHara View Post
Thank you for the recommendations. As I have upgraded the headlights to halogens, I have ordered a 1-wire 130 amp alternator.
You do realize that halogen headlights don't use any more amperage than the original incandescents, right?

Alternators should be sized according to the design requirements of the electrical system. If you total all your concurrent loads then you want to size your alternator to be able to satisfy them as well as recharge the battery at a suitable rate. Buying a 130 amp alternator when you have a 40 amp load requirement doesn't make a lot of sense.

The fact that your AAW harness doesn't include a regulator harness doesn't preclude you from using the original 1G alternator and external regulator...it just means you need to buy (or use the original) a suitable regulator harness.

As far as the original product that was being discussed, about turning a 1G alternator into a 1-wire unit using the small solid-state unit... remember that 1-wire alternators need to self-excite. This means that there needs to be circuitry in that unit to provide excite voltage without a dedicated switch (ignition) normally employed with a "conventional" alternator. I'd be interested in how they do it.... assuming there is some "static" current drain to provide power to the unit.... also, don't forget that the 1G alternator output sucks at low alternator speeds so really all you're getting from the deal is a little box to replace a bigger box and twenty bucks worth of plugs and wiring. You also will lose your alternator warning lamp or factory ammeter capability at the same time.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:05 AM
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Is it just me or does that little box look like a rework of the old "Beavco" one wire conversion thing? Which as I recall proved to not be terribly reliable on top of the ammeter and ALT light issues and thus never sold very well.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 09:27 PM
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While I'm loathe to disagree with Bart (he's typically right), I have to disagree here (to a point). If you're putting in an AAW wiring harness, I can't imagine putting the 1G alternator back in. While a 1G may theoretically be adequate, in reality...the point of the AAW harness is to allow for electrical expansion and enhancement as well as wiring simplicity. If you plan on doing anything, a 3G or GM style one-wire (blech) style alternator is pretty much required. In original configuration, the original electrical system was barely adequate, and your headlights would dim and brighten with RPM changes. If all your lights are on, and you have any sort of radio, the system will struggle.

If you were going concours, a 1G would be appropriate. But you're not, as indicated by the Update kit. A 1G conversion box is just a bandaid to fixing the real problem...which is that the 1G was barely adequate 50 years ago. With the AAW harness, you've pretty much lost your (dangerous) ammeter anyway. The alternator won't change that. And while I agree with Woodchuck 100% in theory...in reality, I can't imagine going through the trouble of an AAW harness and not converting to a 3G unit. We can debate the 3G vs GM 1-wire all day, but with your harness in mind...I would say 1G is a mistake.
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