Brake push rod help on disc conversion. - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Brake push rod help on disc conversion.

Hello friends. I have yet another question on what seems to be a never ending circus involving my brakes. If some of you have read my post in the past few weeks I did a willwood front disk brake conversion and left my rear drums. I had upgraded my master cylinder but upgraded it to the wrong one and now I have what I believe to be a correct one here is the link to it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760173/

Now Here is where the question comes in. The new master cylinder did not come with a push rod but from what I saw in the questions and comments on the master cylinder itself people said that the stock one will work. I went to install a push rod and it will not click into place like it did on the original master cylinder. Looking at the back of the units the set up is a little bit different for where the push rod goes in. The stock unit the push rod loosely goes in about an inch before it clicks into place on the new master cylinder the push rod sits right even with the outside of the master cylinder. I included a picture of the push rod sitting up against where should go in. I can only imagine that I buy something wrong or I missing some part any help would be much appreciated. The set up I have is just a front disk rear drum manual brake without a booster.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 04:26 PM
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Did you call Summit? If so, did they have answers to why.
Were they knowledgeable on your order--Did you explain your needs, or just order a part?
There is MANY variations to master/Pedals/push rods, and you, and your supplier needs to know exactly what the need is. Otherwise it is shooting in the dark, confusion, hit and miss (More miss than hit).
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:25 PM
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Chalk another one up for China!

I would just return the Master to SUMMIT....

and buy another one from www.rockauto.com...

Get a Raybestos, WAGNER, AC-DELCO, or BENDIX one...and you won't have any problems..

Use the stock numbers for a '67-'68 Disc Brake Dual Master..... and you'll be fine..

)

Tony K.



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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:40 PM
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Hello, not to hijack your thread but I have a question if you don't mind. I'm working on updating my master cylinder as well and having a tough time getting the E-Clip off the brake pedal to remove the pushrod. What did you use to get your clip off? Haven't been able to get it to pop off with a screw driver and the pliers I have won't get in there due to the limited clearance with the channel it's mounted in.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
Chalk another one up for China!

I would just return the Master to SUMMIT....

and buy another one from www.rockauto.com...

Get a Raybestos, WAGNER, AC-DELCO, or BENDIX one...and you won't have any problems..

Use the stock numbers for a '67-'68 Disc Brake Dual Master..... and you'll be fine..

)

Tony K.
No. They didn't make a '67+ with manual disc brakes. You want a Raybestos MC36440. The power brake master will not have the groove for the lock ring. It'll also be a little big in bore diameter which will get you a nice high pedal but pedal effort will be increased.

PS: There's a reason why they put that lock ring on the pushrod.... imagine a failure in the brake system that causes the master cylinder piston to return slower than the brake pedal..... "clink".

Bart

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:00 AM
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"having a tough time getting the E-Clip off the brake pedal to remove the pushrod."

To get off the clip, You just use long needlenose pliers or you can also use any tool that has a "hook" on the end....or you can just farbricate your own tool which a lot of us do.

Also, I don't really know what Woodchuck is eluding to... You can use a Power Disc Brake Master Cylinder on a Non-Power (Manual) Disc Brake system just fine.. Maybe he can elaborate what he means..

)

Tony K.



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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:11 AM
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Thanks NEFaurora, I'll have to find a stronger hook. The picks I have are bending. Of course it has been on there for 55 years so it's not giving up easily.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:23 AM
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Try one of these...It should be in everyone's tool box...
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Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
No. They didn't make a '67+ with manual disc brakes. You want a Raybestos MC36440. The power brake master will not have the groove for the lock ring. It'll also be a little big in bore diameter which will get you a nice high pedal but pedal effort will be increased.

PS: There's a reason why they put that lock ring on the pushrod.... imagine a failure in the brake system that causes the master cylinder piston to return slower than the brake pedal..... "clink".
That guy is still jacked up, by the way. (The one who got caught between the front
bumper on a GT-350 and the pit wall when the pushrod fell out of the back of the
master.... I was there walking the pits the day that happened 15 years ago)

Raybestos MC36440 is the 15/16" Granada unit. It works great on stock-style
brake front disc/rear drum vintage Mustangs. That's the bore size what we used.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
Try one of these...It should be in everyone's tool box...
Pretty sure there's one of those in my dad's tool box, thanks
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
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Pretty sure there's one of those in my dad's tool box, thanks
Just make sure you put it back when you're done with it!
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:54 AM
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This is a must-have tool to remove cir-clips. It'll be used time and time again.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Snap-R...ads-63845.html

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 11:15 AM
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Or, https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-9...72858224&psc=1 Made in M'erica and works great.

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHOCK View Post
Did you call Summit? If so, did they have answers to why.
Were they knowledgeable on your order--Did you explain your needs, or just order a part?
There is MANY variations to master/Pedals/push rods, and you, and your supplier needs to know exactly what the need is. Otherwise it is shooting in the dark, confusion, hit and miss (More miss than hit).
I figured it out. This MC can be used with or without a booster. There is an 1 1/2in space that goes in the MC when useing a booster. I am not so that space pulls out and it's the same as the stock set up.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
No. They didn't make a '67+ with manual disc brakes. You want a Raybestos MC36440. The power brake master will not have the groove for the lock ring. It'll also be a little big in bore diameter which will get you a nice high pedal but pedal effort will be increased.

PS: There's a reason why they put that lock ring on the pushrod.... imagine a failure in the brake system that causes the master cylinder piston to return slower than the brake pedal..... "clink".
YES, Yes.

No clip ring machining in the 67-72 Disc Brake master. Use these in a manual setup---Hit the brakes, let off the pedal, next stop hit the brakes/then hit the BIG tree to stop. or Might be a Semi, child on the corner, or your Mother in Law??
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