Need suggestion of loosening FLYWHEEL bolts! - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Need suggestion of loosening FLYWHEEL bolts!

Subject: Need suggestion of loosening FLYWHEEL bolts!

Ok, I just pulled my 3 speed Manual Non-Syncro Tranny today.......Yay for that....! I'm doing a 3-speed manual to C4 Conversion....

Now I need to get the (6) Flywheel bolts off...

Problem is...The bolts are on mother tight... When I try to get one of the bolts off, The Flywheel (and crankshaft) move along with it.

Any suggestion of how I can arrest the flywheel or crankshaft so that I can loosen the (6) flywheel bolts...

Looking for some suggestions on this one...

I look forward to all of your replies... Such a simple thing can be such a bear sometimes!

Thanks guys...!

)

Tony K.



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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:21 PM
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Impact...

Regards,
Patrick
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:22 PM
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If not, use a large flat breaker bar to wedge between the flywheel teeth and something on the engine to keep it stationary.

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Patrick
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:25 PM
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You need a flywheel turning tool.
Or
Some time a screw driver through one of the holes in the flywheel that will stop against the engine block.
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:26 PM
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Usually what I do with my flywheel is stick a phillips head screwdriver through one of the holes that goes all the way through the flywheel and then start turning the mounting bolts. The screwdriver eventually wedges up against something and stops the flywheel from turning. I use a screwdriver that I really don't give a darn about.
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:26 PM
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Both of those methods work. Also a tool is made for just such a job. One hand holds the tool and flywheel stationary while the other loosens the bolt.

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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:18 PM
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Considering the fact you're removing a manual flywheel, I suspect there are probably no holes to stuff the screwdriver through like others referenced, a flexplate yes no problem. Usually you can get a big screwdriver in the flywheel teeth with the shaft of the screwdriver against something solid to hold it steady . Another option may be having your wife stand at the engine and hold the belts. Once her fingers get to a pulley, the engine will stop turning.

You might need a second set of hands under the car to secure the flywheel while you crank the bolts.

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Last edited by Lightning; 06-17-2019 at 10:24 PM.
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:26 PM
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The first option offered- impact wrench -is the easiest. No need to hold the flywheel. Some of the battery powered impacts have amazing torque.
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:34 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23800-F...CV9AB7GC8RZJ0W


... or the impact as suggested. You'll need the holder to torque the bolts on the flexplate though....

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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightning View Post
Considering the fact you're removing a manual flywheel, I suspect there are probably no holes to stuff the screwdriver through like others referenced
The last two flywheels I've installed/uninstalled on my 65 have had holes going all the way through. That's how I've loosened/tightened the bolts each time. If I had to do it today, I'd probably just use an impact wrench.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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I have impact tools...probably every type of every Air tool made, but I have no air to operate them (Yes, a Good heavy duty Air Compressor has been on my hitlist for years....just haven't gotten to it yet...tisk..tisk on me...talk about slow walking that one...Geez!

Anyway, First, I'll try to jam a prybar behind the flywheel. And Yes, It's a manual flywheel, so no holes to put anything through..

At worst, I'll run out and buy or order online a good Rechargeable Impact wrench. I actually did a review of a good Milwaukee one last year....Incredible tool.....but it wasn't mine! I'll have to buy one anyway..

I'll see if I can try the jam method first and see how it goes...

Will let everyone know how it turns out..

)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
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1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:44 PM
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You can also stop the crank from turning from the front of the engine. Maybe not your wife's finger in a pulley, but a 1/4" or 3/8" socket wrench extension through the balancer. Catch it against one of the many crevices on the front of the engine. Once you get the flywheel bolts off, turn the crank in the opposite direction from the balancer nut so you can get the extension out.

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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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I could also try a deep socket wrench at the Front...and try to block it with something...That might work too...

At any rate, It will be fun...

I'll let you know what I wound up doing in the end....

Wish me Luck!

)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:10 AM
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If money isn't a pressing issue right now invest in a 3/8 Milwaukee Fuel rechargeable impact, if the stars are aligned to do so. It will easily remove those bolts in seconds. It has around 600 ft lbs of breakaway torque.
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:11 AM
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I have used a board cut to the right length to hold the damper while I torque the damper bolt down. I wedge it in against the counter weight in the back and it is cut to the right length to stop at the frame rail.


If whoever put your flywheel on is anybody like me though, they may very well have put loctite on the bolts. I always do and I use the high strength red. Zap each bolt for a few seconds with a small torch to get it hot and it sort of melts the loctite loose. The bolts come right out. If you can scotch a board up on the starter ring like I described for the damper and use the frame rail back there to brace it and stop it you might be able to hold it with that and wrench it loose.


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