My leap of faith -- CSRP discs! - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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My leap of faith -- CSRP discs!

Being ( probably ) way too cautious and a born pessimist, I've finally, after months of research and reading posts on this site and other places, seeing some solid advice -- finally ordered a manual front disc brake kit today from CSRP for Diane's old bones. It looks totally complete and I've already downloaded the install guide, read it 3 or 4 times, so I'm reasonably confident I can install it. Don't know if it'll be just a few hours or a couple days to do it; any tips would be welcomed, especially the break-in / bedding process. Wish me and Diane luck!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:03 AM
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Flush ALL the old brake fluid out while you're at it and you won't be disappointed you did. Bench-bleed the master cylinder, use a quality proportioning valve, and no need to rush. Enjoy the project ! I replaced all of my lines with stainless, new rear wheel cylinders and brake springs, and I gotta say... FRONT DISCS are the BEST mod I made to my Mustang for my own safety and enjoying driving my car. The first time I used the brakes with the same effort I used to have with 4 wheel drums, I almost hit my head on the steering wheel it stopped so much better. And I no longer was scared to drive it if it rained. WELL WORTH IT. CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS ! !
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'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •16:1 Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories
•Original Styled Steel Wheels
...my first car

'66 Emberglo / Parchment coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •16:1 Power Steering
•Dealer Air Conditioning •Console
...son's first car


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:17 AM
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Good luck. I think you'll like the kit. I did mine last winter and it wasn't difficult at all. In fact, I think you'll be surprised at how quickly it will go. Probably the best piece of advice I can give you is to be sure that your lines go in absolutely straight. The crossover lines between the calipers come pre-bent, but that doesn't mean they won't need a little tweaking to get them to go in straight.

For the bedding process, just follow the instructions included in the kit and be sure to set your proportioning valve correctly so that you rear brakes don't lock up. Otherwise, I'm sure you'll do fine.


Early 65
1998 5.0, fitech efi, holley in tank returnless pump
4R70W transmission with USShift quick 2 controller
3.00:1 8" open rear end
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:25 PM
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I found the hardest part was plumbing the proportioning valve and the new master cylinder. I also had a bad case of the might as wells, new shocks, ball joints, etc., while it's apart you might as well.
Bill
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:28 PM
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I did the same swap a while ago. Follow the instructions and take your time. If you run into problems let us know. Many people here did the swap successfully. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Follow the instructions

- Leaking lines is a common issue if you work for the first time on brakes. Make sure the lines go in straight. Don't force them in using the nut, it will not work.

- Use a flaring wrench! Don't over tight, especially at the calipers
- In case you have to re-flare, use a quality flaring tool and deburr the line
- Adjustment of the push rod is important, otherwise the brake will engage late

- Proper bench bleeding and bleeding of all lines
- There is some confusion about the direction of the rotors. Follow the instructions, they are correct. Other rotors have to be installed the other way around, but not the CSRP kit (I had many discussion with many people about this topic)
- The kit is very good, the only upgrade I made is using high quality pads (EBC red).

- Brake very gently the first 100 miles (from urban speed), increase brake pressure afterwards. After 200 miles make 10+ stops from 60 mph down to 10 mph. Let the brakes cool down before stopping the vehicle at the end.
- Adjust the proportioning valve. Very important to avoid lock of the rear brakes under hard braking. The nose of the car should dip down.

- Check regularly for leaks
- You can also go and ask a mechanic to check on your brakes afterwards if you want. Should be cheap, since he don't has much to do.



Good luck
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1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:25 PM
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I need to do a kit like this one day. Be nice to find something in Canada.

Does it work with 14" rims?

1968 Fastback, 289, 3 speed.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyd View Post
I found the hardest part was plumbing the proportioning valve and the new master cylinder. I also had a bad case of the might as wells, new shocks, ball joints, etc., while it's apart you might as well.
Bill

Everyone who's replied with advice -- THANKS And billyd -- I already have new shocks front & rear to put on but I didn't think about ball joints. Might as well. I'm guessing the kit will arrive sometime next week and I'll get busy ASAP. And I'll for certain be updating. Thanks again, all!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:11 PM
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Also, may want to a a 10lb residual valve if your MC doesn't include one in the rear brake port.
Good Luck

Ken ..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstcar66 View Post
Flush ALL the old brake fluid out while you're at it and you won't be disappointed you did. Bench-bleed the master cylinder, use a quality proportioning valve, and no need to rush. Enjoy the project ! I replaced all of my lines with stainless, new rear wheel cylinders and brake springs, and I gotta say... FRONT DISCS are the BEST mod I made to my Mustang for my own safety and enjoying driving my car. The first time I used the brakes with the same effort I used to have with 4 wheel drums, I almost hit my head on the steering wheel it stopped so much better. And I no longer was scared to drive it if it rained. WELL WORTH IT. CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS ! !
This pretty much voices everything I was going to say. Bench bleeding the MC is a must-- plug the holes and push the plunger with a screwdriver to get all the air out. Saves a lot of problems down the road. Getting a good proportioning valve from a reputable brake company like Baer is what I did, and it works fabulously. Taking your time to make sure you don't have to do it all over again is also a must, as I know from experience... I've converted to discs all around and I'm glad I did.

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
Power Steering
All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:32 PM
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And yes, fabricating new brake lines might be necessary. Use a large socket to get even bends, and make sure your line is smooth and flawless before you try to flare it.

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
Power Steering
All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:55 PM
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CSRP kits come with an adjustable proportioning valve and correct matching master. Also adjustable brake rod too. Great kit. I’ve installed several kits. They are local to me. I would also suggest new upper and lower arms, perches and springs while you are in there. And do the drop for sure.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again. I did the drop last year plus a bigger front sway bar and an export brace. I have a MC bar here that I have yet to install. As soon as it stops raining...
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangfire View Post
I need to do a kit like this one day. Be nice to find something in Canada.

Does it work with 14" rims?

It depends on the date code if you have stock rims. Look for a three digit code like 6ME. 6 means 1966, M is the plant code and E the month (May). All wheels made in years 1965 to 1972 fit over the SWAP1.3. Granada brakes might not fit.



1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
Also, may want to a a 10lb residual valve if your MC doesn't include one in the rear brake port.
Good Luck
It does.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:16 PM
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Great swap, I did mine last year. I had an issue with leaky lines, I guess I was afraid to over tighten them so I wasn't tightening them enough. I would tighten a bit then wait and just kept doing that until the leaks stopped. The only other weird issue I had was I didn't have the brake switch bushing on my pedal before the swap so I used the one that came with the kit. My brake lights wouldn't work after that, even tried a new switch with no luck. I pulled the bushing out and lights worked again. The kit is very complete though, I was very impressed with how everything just went together so easily. I've had more trouble with less complicated projects so this one blew me away. My wife would come check on me because there was no cursing coming from the garage, guess she thought the car had fallen on me.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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