I did the same swap a while ago. Follow the instructions and take your time. If you run into problems let us know. Many people here did the swap successfully. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Follow the instructions
- Leaking lines is a common issue if you work for the first time on brakes. Make sure the lines go in straight. Don't force them in using the nut, it will not work.
- Use a flaring wrench! Don't over tight, especially at the calipers
- In case you have to re-flare, use a quality flaring tool and deburr the line
- Adjustment of the push rod is important, otherwise the brake will engage late
- Proper bench bleeding and bleeding of all lines
- There is some confusion about the direction of the rotors. Follow the instructions, they are correct. Other rotors have to be installed the other way around, but not the CSRP kit (I had many discussion with many people about this topic)
- The kit is very good, the only upgrade I made is using high quality pads (EBC red).
- Brake very gently the first 100 miles (from urban speed), increase brake pressure afterwards. After 200 miles make 10+ stops from 60 mph down to 10 mph. Let the brakes cool down before stopping the vehicle at the end.
- Adjust the proportioning valve. Very important to avoid lock of the rear brakes under hard braking. The nose of the car should dip down.
- Check regularly for leaks
- You can also go and ask a mechanic to check on your brakes afterwards if you want. Should be cheap, since he don't has much to do.
1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC