Pulling Out the Engine - Vintage Mustang Forums
 5Likes
  • 2 Post By GypsyR
  • 1 Post By 69GT350H
  • 1 Post By Huskinhano
  • 1 Post By BlakeTX
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
MustangGrande302's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: California, West Coast
Posts: 137
Garage
Pulling Out the Engine

I need to pull out my 302 V8 Engine out of my Mustang for the frame to be repaired. The damage is in the front of the frame and I am confused on if to pull out the engine and the transmission or just the engine. I would think just the engine because I am not changing the transmission out and because the frame damage doesn't go all the way back to the transmission. What do you guys think I should do when pulling out the engine? When I do pull it out, I plan to give the engine a clean and replace the spark plugs. I would also like to know what I should do before pulling out the engine.

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

1970 Ford Mustang Grande 302 V8

"Lil' Red"


MustangGrande302 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:35 PM
Senior Member
 
fordguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: springhill florida
Posts: 1,602
i'd yank them out together, but that's me. if you leave the trans in, put a board across the fenders and tie the bellhousing to it with rope, wire, whatever. and towels under the board, of course

66 mustang coupe, 302 / T5-Z / 3.80 trac-lok

fordguy is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:08 PM
Senior Member
 
dzahm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
I'd pull em both-
my reasoning- its sometimes hard to line them up individually in the car
- its nice to have them out to clean up and respray engine bay-
- the car is easy to move around without engine or tranny
-you get super easy access to work on e brake cable, tranny shift linkage


You could leave tranny in- your call-

If you do decide to pull both- I like to jack up rear of vehicle- and then let air out of the tires in the front- this gives you a little nicer angle to slide things out, Oh- you might wanna drain the tranny or get one of the plastic yoke thingies- or you will drain auto trans fluid all over the place.
dzahm is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:08 PM
Senior Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 5,936
Garage
I agree with "ford guy" as to how to secure the tranny. I've used the method too. Just be diligent in steps tp protect the tops of the fenders. Am assuming you're making the repairs in your garage. Therefore, if a C4, insure the torque convertor is fully against the tranny side, if it slides forward, Just know going back in, it can be a bit fiddly getting the it fully seated on the splines.

Ken ..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
Maryland
kenash is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:17 PM
Just some guy
Supporting Member
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SC foothills, USA
Posts: 18,870
Garage
It's a personal preference thing. I've never seen a reason to remove the transmission if I only want the engine out. I tend to work alone and definitely find it easier to pull and reinstall just the engine by myself. Plus I don't have to jack the car up as high.

On the other hand, newbies often have great difficulty mating engines and transmissions back together properly when they are in the car. So if you don't separate them in the first place you can make an end run around that problem.

By the way, on a vintage Mustang forum pretty much everybody knows exactly what a "302" is. No need to add "V8" nor "engine". Not here anyways.
Huskinhano and 2nd 66 like this.
GypsyR is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:40 PM
Senior Member
 
69GT350H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 3,127
Garage
I only have a 1 ton engine lift, thats 1/4 ton fully extended. I only pull the motor and leave the trans in place. Use a floor jack with at least a 2x4 or better 2x6 under the trans pan for support while removing/installing the engine. I used a rope through the trans bolt holes and tied the bell housing up to the 4 brace holes on the firewall, braces removed. You might need to remove your radiator and hood for the engine to clear as it will need to move forward to disconnect from the trans. This si the issue when installing the engine, lining everything back up so it slides back together properly, and why some will remove both engine and transmission together.

Removing engine and transmission together requires a larger engine lift as you need to extend it all the way to have a high lift as the engine needs to be high and the transmission low to get it forward over the radiator support and out from under the firewall at the same time.


Sorry for the wrong brand/make, needed something fast.
Huskinhano likes this.

VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
69GT350H is online now  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,607
Personal preference. Personally if I yank just the motor out. To me itís more manageable. My engine lift is non folding, Iíve pulled the engine and trans together with it. I have read from a few guys with the typical folding lift it barely has enough length to lift the motor out. With the transmission attached you may not have the reach and stability needed. I think itís more going to be what your lift dictates
2nd 66 likes this.

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence

Huskinhano is online now  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:36 PM
Senior Member
 
coupster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 1,823
Garage
I would pull both. You can do it with a folding lift. I installed my 390/C6 in one shot with my folding lift with no problems at all. Besides don’t you need to haul it to frame shop? Do you want that trans flopping around during that move(s)? You will need to pull driveshaft too.

I removed the hood, jacked the rear as high as I could, and dropped it in with the exhaust manifolds installed. I did not think it would go, but it slid in pretty easily. I did scratch that new engine bay paint, but that was the least of my worries. It was a heavy load, but no issue with 1 ton folding lift lengthened to the max. I did use a load leveler too. Pretty much the same set up as pictured above by 69GT350H, except it’s a 390/C6/428 with exhaust manifolds.


65 FB 289/3sp Rangoon Red/Red interior
68 Coupe 200/6 T-5 Diamond Blue/Blue interior
68 Coupe 302/C4 Black interior
69 Coupe 250/6 C4, Blue/Black interior
70 Coupe 390/C6 Auto Gold Metallic/Ginger interior
2010 Gold V6/Auto Sunset Gold/Black interior
65 Falcon Vintage Burgundy/Palomino interior

Last edited by coupster; 06-18-2019 at 03:45 PM.
coupster is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:39 PM
Senior Member
 
MikeG69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,562
Garage
I am with the guys who would just pull the motor. Leave the trans in the car & put a couple bolts through the top 2 trans bell housing holes & run a length of chain over the shock tower to firewall braces & attach the chain to the bolts & that will support the trans.

2000 Ranger 4X4 (my DD)
1999 Explorer Sport (wife's DD)
2008 Escape (spare)
1969 Mustang Coupe (project)
2014 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom (wife's toy)
Build thread; http://www.newyorkmustangs.com/forum...cs-t15096.html
AKA; mike65, member here since 12/00.
MikeG69 is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:22 PM
Senior Member
 
2nd 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 9,307
Garage
A few pics from the OP might be helpful


Brad
2nd 66 is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:39 PM
Senior Member
 
69GT350H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 3,127
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeG69 View Post
I am with the guys who would just pull the motor. Leave the trans in the car & put a couple bolts through the top 2 trans bell housing holes & run a length of chain over the shock tower to firewall braces & attach the chain to the bolts & that will support the trans.
My car was stored and moved many times with the transmission hanging by the nylon rope and it never swung around.



Next time, I might use something stronger than that nylon rope though.

VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
69GT350H is online now  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
MustangGrande302's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: California, West Coast
Posts: 137
Garage
To be honest, I have seen all of your guy's solutions. I plan to use the method of keeping the tranmission in the car and having it hang. This way, it will be easier to get the engine back in. I also plan to clean it and replace the spark plugs in the engine while it is out. Thank you all for you answers! I am just trying to get it ready to have the frame repaired.

The more you work on something, the more familiar you become with it.

1970 Ford Mustang Grande 302 V8

"Lil' Red"


MustangGrande302 is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:29 PM
Senior Member
 
subpar63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Formerly Sioux Falls, South Dakota - Now Silverhill, Alabama USA
Posts: 1,658
Well if it was me I'd be pulling the trans with the engine. Perfect time to clean up and detail both engine and trans while you are waiting for the car to get back from the shop. Then once back, another perfect time to clean up/repaint/detail the engine bay, clean/detail the under carriage etc. . . . .

Then again that's how the "while I'm at it" syndrome starts and before you know it everything's been spruced up and your wallet is much lighter - ask me how I know

YMMV

John

John Goettsch





My First Mustang

Transformed 2017: (Thanks 22GT)
66 FB C Code Upgraded to HiPo+
Autolite 4100 1.12 - 4-Speed Toploader
3.55 True-Trac - Koni Adjustables
Z-Member - Arvinode Exhaust


66 FB C Code C4
Code U Tahoe Turquoise Metallic
White/Aqua Pony Interior

Last edited by subpar63; 06-18-2019 at 09:33 PM.
subpar63 is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:33 PM
Dimples
 
BlakeTX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 3,218
Garage
So whatís the deal with the frame? You mentioned that the alignment shop diagnosed it, but I never saw a more detailed analysis. Whereís it bent up? How bad?
kenash likes this.

The anvil of reality.
BlakeTX is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome