ACP 3 row Radiator - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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ACP 3 row Radiator

Does anyone experience with this radiator in a car with A/C?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-radi...waAh1YEALw_wcB

i currently have this northern one and on a hot day it can get very close to overheating.
https://www.northernfactory.com/Product/205030

1966 Mustang Coupe Emberglo with Dealer installed GT Options "Penny"
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:20 PM
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Iím using one of these in my 66 with a/c. Made a huge difference in how cool the engine temp is in Houston traffic with the a/c running. Iíve had it installed for about 6 months and have no complaints so far. Not a daily driver but Iíve run it with a/c in stop and go traffic and the temp has yet to climb above the mid point on my gauge.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:25 PM
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With the ACP Radiators I think that the 2-Row actually cools better than the 3-Row....

This is because the cooling tubes of the 2-Row are huge.

ACP give specs on their website...and others have said the same...

With that being said, You can't go wrong with an ACP Radiator. They look and work great...

)

Tony K.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:55 PM
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I just received an ACP Maxcore 2 row and the workmanship looks good. Still painting it so I don't have feedback whether it cools better than my 3 row copper.

1966 2+2, 289 A code, AOD AT, 3.55 Currie Traction Lock, PS, PDB, AC, Pony deluxe interior & Rally Pac
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:28 PM
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I run a Maxcore 2 row radiator in the Arizona heat and don't have any issues with it overheating. I drove through Blythe, CA last year when it was 113 degrees outside...I overheated but my car didn't. I don't have AC installed though.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:37 PM
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I run a Maxcore 2 row radiator in the Arizona heat and don't have any issues with it overheating. I drove through Blythe, CA last year when it was 113 degrees outside...I overheated but my car didn't. I don't have AC installed though.
Do you have the factory 65-66 sized Maxcore radiator or did you go larger? I just installed a factory sized Maxcore in my 64.5 and was thinking I should have went with a larger rad, but if youíre getting by with the factory size Maxcore in AZ, Iím not going to worry!
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:41 PM
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Yes, I'm running the factory 65/66 sized radiator.
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I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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What's the purpose of a 3 row, if the 2 row cools better.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by president89 View Post
What's the purpose of a 3 row, if the 2 row cools better.
A few months ago I was shopping for an ACP radiator for the 302 in my '66 and emailed them a similar question.
-----------------
Besides the lower price, any reason to go with the 3-row over the 2-row?

The most important factor these days is the total amount of surface area that can transfer heat. Our 2 rows are about 8-10% cooler than our 3 row because of the really big tubes.
Our 65-66 radiator has the exact same brackets as the OE radiator. So, you will need those four little "Z" shaped brackets/spacers for your fan shroud, just like the OE had. Stock cap will work, but you can go up to 16lbs if you wanted to.

If you are just using the car as a daily driver, the 3 row may be beneficial during "idle" times. Because the coolant will not flow as fast through the 3 rows and thus allowing the heat to dissipate a little longer.
Also, please remember that our MaxCores are thicker than OE. So, just make sure to check for overall clearance and use a fan spacer if you need to. V8s should have plenty of room. The 6 cylinders are very tight.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 12:02 AM
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I just realized there's an ACP radiator and also an ECP radiator. I run the ECP and its a real nice piece, also with a more oem looking stamped tank than most of the aftermarket aluminum radiators.

65 coupe 5.0L/5 speed
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Last edited by Lightning; 06-19-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:58 AM
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Personally I would look at other possible causes of over heating first. Your Northern has the larger tubes and I haven't seen any negative feed back on them. Just wondering, where you having over heat issues that prompted buying an aluminum rad initially?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent View Post
the 3 row may be beneficial during "idle" times. Because the coolant will not flow as fast through the 3 rows and thus allowing the heat to dissipate a little longer.
Also, please remember that our MaxCores are thicker than OE. So, just make sure to check for overall clearance and use a fan spacer if you need to.
This is kind of the opposite of what happens. Three row aluminum radiators have a ton of surface area, but because they are so thick, at idle, air has a hard time getting through. Additionally, air temps heat up as it passes by the first two rows, making it less effective as it cools the third row. Out on the road, the high air pressure as you're driving tends to force more through. But at a standstill, most cooling fans and shrouds have a harder time getting enough airflow. This can make some cars run hotter than normal.

He's right about clearances though.

Generally, it's a better idea to run 3 core brass, or 2 core aluminum radiators. (I'm sure you already know that the aluminum cores are much wider than the brass ones) If you need more cooling, go to a larger version than stock. The 20" versions usually work pretty well, but with greatly increased power and air conditioning involved, the 24" big-block radiators are sometimes better.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Personally I would look at other possible causes of over heating first. Your Northern has the larger tubes and I haven't seen any negative feed back on them. Just wondering, where you having over heat issues that prompted buying an aluminum rad initially?
Car originally did not have A/C and did not overheat. The stock radiator couldn't handle it - we knew this going in. We tried an aftermarkett 3 row - which was worse than the original radiator - poor construction - you could see the blocked tubes. I then went straight to the northern. I personally think it has to do with the stock shroud being terrible and using a clutch fan. I don't want to take this apart again. I despise removing the fan. I figured, now is a good time to do a final radiator upgrade. Everything has been replaced and flushed, water pump, thermostat, hoses(including the spring in the lower) Full engine flush including the little metal plugs in the block. Unless I get a new engine, there is no other factor besides the fan shroud and the radiator.. besides perhaps the condenser...but i can't imagine that causing the issue.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by president89 View Post
...besides perhaps the condenser...but i can't imagine that causing the issue.
Unless air isn't flowing cleanly through condenser due to dirt, bugs, parts of bugs, etc.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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This entire system has about 1500 miles on it. So i doubt it.

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