331 Stroker Suggestions PLEASE! - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:36 AM
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Dart Pro 1 heads, Scat crank, Scat I beam rods, Forged pistons unknown brand. Looks like a solid build with good parts. Cam specs Hyd roller 231 235 duration .544 .565 lift 112 LSA That will make 460 HP with a dual plane intake like the Stealth, RPM or Air Gap and a 750 carb. Anytime you buy a crate engine you are taking a chance. Does not matter if its Ford Strokers, DSS, CHP, Blueprint or ATK. They all have issues at sometime or another. I have never seen a local builder put any warranty on a performance build but if something does go wrong you can at least yell at them in person and I have done it.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:39 AM
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Something to think about before building a stroker Ford. Small Block Ford Reality
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 09:25 AM
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Is there a specific year/vehicle one should be looking for if going this route?
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 10:18 AM
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Gecko, 9.5 deck height blocks are preferable, 9.480 blocks can be used. 71-72 have beefy block and tall deck. They are all plenty strong for 600-700 hp and 7K rpm depending on stroke. If your plans are beyond that I would go with an aftermarket block and 450+ ci, in MHO, not to say that I wouldn't love to try a 289 at the track with big aluminum heads and intake turning 8-9K through 4.11 gears and a toploader.

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 11:02 AM
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Something to think about before building a stroker Ford. Small Block Ford Reality

Interesting article, thanks for sharing.



1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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So I just got off the phone with the guys at Quick Performance (they just built my 8” rear end) and they say the weak link now is my case and the u-joints. They said the rear end with all the bells and whistles I added will reliably hold 450 hp at the track and close to 500 hp on the street but wheel hop will be what breaks things. That being said I think I am back to trying to hit high 300 hp numbers.

How much hp are you guys making to your rear ends and what do you have for rears?

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 12:39 PM
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So I just got off the phone with the guys at Quick Performance (they just built my 8 rear end) and they say the weak link now is my case and the u-joints. They said the rear end with all the bells and whistles I added will reliably hold 450 hp at the track and close to 500 hp on the street but wheel hop will be what breaks things. That being said I think I am back to trying to hit high 300 hp numbers.

How much hp are you guys making to your rear ends and what do you have for rears?
Cal tracs or comp slide a links will keep the rear under control. I run Cal tracs on my Falcon with a 9" but your 8" will be just fine. No reason to change it unless something breaks. The stock axles would be the weak link if you run drag radials or slicks at the strip. Make sure to use solid u joints.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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So I just got off the phone with ATK and after the visit with QP and ATK I think I will take one step back and start looking at the HP80 with 410 hp and 415 lb ft. Should come in pretty safe with those numbers and still have plenty under the right foot.

What do you mean solid u-joint and which one do you suggest. I think i remember putting Spicers in it years ago.

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!

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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info cmefly! I know I am prob getting a little annoying.

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 01:49 PM
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Thanks for all the info cmefly! I know I am prob getting a little annoying.
No worries. everyone on this forum likes to help out. Solid u joints have no grease zerk so they are not hollow inside. Spicer makes solid u joints. if yours have a grease zerk i would replace them.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 01:57 PM
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The HP100 uses the Dart 195 head and the HP80 uses the Dart 170 head and a smaller cam. They both use the Scat crank,rods and ARP bolts with forged pistons. The HP80 will be a little milder on the street but plenty quick. https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/HP80/10002/-1
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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I agree! What trans are you guys running your strokers through? I have a T-10 steel case 4 speed. I would think that will be strong enough for street driving as long as there are no 4K rpm drops and it doesn’t go to the track.

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 02:37 PM
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The t-10 will be fine just take your foot off the gas when you shift and it will be ok. If you are not going to the track the HP80 will be the better choice.
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 04:18 PM
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So I just got off the phone with the guys at Quick Performance (they just built my 8 rear end) and they say the weak link now is my case and the u-joints. They said the rear end with all the bells and whistles I added will reliably hold 450 hp at the track and close to 500 hp on the street but wheel hop will be what breaks things. That being said I think I am back to trying to hit high 300 hp numbers.

How much hp are you guys making to your rear ends and what do you have for rears?
I just run a stock 9", with a Detroit locker, and Moser 31 spline axles. I do run a strange chromoly driveshaft, with Spicer U joints.

As mentioned, Caltracs are your friend for controlling wheel hop.
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:41 PM
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I have a T-10 steel case 4 speed.

Many T10's had a 25 spline output shaft. It won't accept any abuse.
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