331 Stroker Suggestions PLEASE! - Vintage Mustang Forums
 11Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
331 Stroker Suggestions PLEASE!

Well I think the 289 in my ‘66 might need major work. I’m gonna band aid it until this fall and look at getting something done with the old engine or order something. Problem with the current engine is, it’s not numbers matching and they want $1800 to go through it but I have to assemble the short block and while I’m at it I was going to build up the top end so an additional $2500. So I’m already over $4k and you know I will run into more stuff as I go.

I thought I might as well humor the idea of putting in a 331 since it is street driven and I would really like the lower torque curve of a stroker.

I must admit that I always wanted a stroker and maybe I’m finding a reason for one more then anything. So who would you guys pick?

Right now I’m looking at ATK HP14 and CHP street fighter with flat tops. Looks like the real difference is the heads, Dart Pro 1 versus AFR. Give me some feed back!

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!

Last edited by Sub_Elect; 06-18-2019 at 05:44 PM.
Sub_Elect is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:23 PM
Senior Member
 
cmefly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bonney Lake
Posts: 4,462
Build a 347. Seriously build a 347. No reason to go with a 331 unless you want less power.
j persons and Rebel Racing like this.
cmefly is offline  
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
Is that what you have?

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
 
post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:30 PM
Senior Member
 
cmefly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bonney Lake
Posts: 4,462
I have a 331 in my 65 Falcon and a 347 in my 65 Mustang. Both engines have the same mild cam, intake, heads and carb. My 331 made 435 HP at around 6500 rpm and 415 TQ The 347 made 460 HP at around 6,000 RPM and 440 TQ. I would take the 347 every time all things being equal. More HP and TQ at a lower RPM across the board with the 347

Last edited by cmefly; 06-18-2019 at 06:33 PM.
cmefly is offline  
post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
See this is the info I am looking for! So how about the HP100?

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:09 PM
Senior Member
 
cmefly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bonney Lake
Posts: 4,462
Looks like a decent setup for the money on a crate engine with a warranty. https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/HP100/10002/-1
What transmission and rear gear are you using?
cmefly is offline  
post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
I have a T10 wide ratio 4 speed and a 3.55 rear with an Eaton True Trac.

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
So one of my questions is at what horse power do I need to start worrying about twisting up the body?

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:46 PM
Senior Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 5,929
Garage
"Twisting up the body"? Unless you are going to drag the car and beat the "BejeeBees" out of it on the street, then, this is not an issue. I run a 331 with TFS 170 heads blue printed valve train, custom billet cam, and block assembly. Running a custom 680 Holly, this engine was once dynode at 380+ RWHP at 401 RWTQ at 4200 RWTQ. You can make plenty of power to the rear wheels with excess to keep you interested.
It's all about the details in the design and assembly.
However, many here, have found great success in adding the body stiffer kits to reduce any flex to these aging bodies to a minimum.

Ken ..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
Maryland
kenash is offline  
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
Thanks for the info guys. I always liked the idea of a stroked small block for street driving, less rpm and still plenty of grunt low in the rpms. Hope to get this all figured out soon. If anyone else has input in all ears!

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
So another question is at what point will I start having cooling issues with a 331 or 347?

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:48 PM
Senior Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 5,929
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub_Elect View Post
So another question is at what point will I start having cooling issues with a 331 or 347?
Well, I for one, haven't experienced any signs of overheating and my block is .040 over. I run a good 4 row copper RAD, a good Edlebrock W/P, and I started with an immaculate block.

Ken ..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
Maryland
kenash is offline  
post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 07:16 AM
Senior Member
 
sportsroof69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Somewhere down in Texas
Posts: 5,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub_Elect View Post
So one of my questions is at what horse power do I need to start worrying about twisting up the body?
You'll have to get it to hook up to worry about that, but a basic 347 build isn't going to make enough power to have to worry about it.
sportsroof69 is offline  
post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Sub_Elect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 35
Thanks guys.

1966 Mustang Ive had for 20 years. Mild built 289, 4-speed coupe. Runs strong but the rest of the car needs help!
Sub_Elect is offline  
post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 07:48 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: far east north corner of Texas
Posts: 6,499
Garage
On that stroke motor advertised I couldn't find out whose heads they have on it. That is something I would want to know more about I think. If they are what we commonly call Chinaheads, I might pass on it unless they took the out of the box heads and ran them back through their head shop, verified that the seats and guides are right and they don't leak. They do sometimes leak right out of the box. They might have cheap junk valves, springs, retainers and keepers and that is something you never want to cheap out on but engines like this start with a dollar figure or range of dollars they think they will sell for and engineer backwards.



Also, they claim 460 horsepower and I have limited experience with crate motors BUTT and it is a big butt. I helped drop somebodys crate engine in a fox body and it was supposed to make 400. We figured it at around 325 so its a buyer beware sort of a situation. The builder can also always say that you didn't finish it with the right stuff or something.


Warrantys are great BUTT, another butt. If something goes wrong you have to crate it back up and send it back and I know of cases where a crate motor company wouldn't make it good because they came up with all manner of excuses like you didn't run it in right or you ran it hot or ran the wrong oil in it or you spun it up way too tight or on and on. If a company wants to, they can wriggle their way out of any motor warranty easily.



I would also want to know the complete cam spec's. It appears to be either a 5.0 or 351W due to the firing order.



I would also want to know whose stroker kit is in it and what static compression it is making. Whose ring and bearing packages did they use, what vintage block is it and what machine work was done to the block.



Are these engines dyno tested? I wouldn't buy a crate motor that was not run and tested.



It is a 28 oz external package but was it professionally balanced and was it blueprinted? I wouldn't build something like this if it wasn't and I didn't. I paid to have my assembly professionally blueprinted and balanced to tighter than plain old throw the engine together specs and balance numbers. The rings are all file fitted and matched to the specific piston and cylinder they went in. All the spec's like piston to wall clearance are dead nuts on, bearing tolerances, it is zero decked which was part of the compression number I wanted to hit with it. My shop also decided to do an additional micro polish on the aftermarket crank because the manager who hovers over all my work didn't like what he saw out of the box.



There are just way too many unknowns. I would never buy a pre-packaged engine in a box. I might pay a shop to build one for me and have me involved in all the discussions and considerations on how it is going to be put together. I would also want to supply all the parts so I know what is going into it.


This is just me talking BUTT, another bigga badda butt. There are these.




https://www.trustlink.org/Reviews/A-...rica-205702895


https://www.ripoffreport.com/reports...ifornia-281289


https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...-any-good.html


https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/s...hp?tid/204421/


I found complaints going all the way back to 2008 so maybe they have cleaned up their problems or maybe not. It also was suspected in some of the discussions that ATK doesn't build their stuff. It is thought that they contract out the builds and just sell them so if that is really the case, what sort of quality are they getting and if they are not dyno tested, what are you getting?


I don't rain on stuff like this for no reason and it is not very pleasurable to do it but you have to be careful with your money and engines in a box that you know not much about are an area with a lot of potential to not get your money's worth.


It would very likely come out a lot better if you picked a verified reputable engine build shop that builds to suit the customer specifically that they are building for.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 06-19-2019 at 08:02 AM.
macstang is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome