Intake reassy, gasket questions - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Intake reassy, gasket questions

I have a few questions regarding intake manifold reassembly related to gaskets:

In the attached pic, I've placed the cork gaskets on the ends of the manifolds. Some suggest to not even use the cork, and instead use a thick bead of Ultra Black (UB - permatex). Others suggest to use the cork and make sure the corners are completed with UB. Some also suggest coating the cork with UB, while others do not. Any best method here?

Also, for the water ports on intake, some suggest a thin film of UB around each water port on each side of the gasket. Is this common practice? This will also help stabilize the gasket as the intake is put into place. They say to use rubber cement around bolt holes to stabilize also.

Finally, and Coup alluded to this in an earlier thread, do I need to seal off the interpassageway ports in the middle of the intake? My gasket set accommodates (has holes) for these ports. I'm not looking for performance.

I'm using a Felpro replacement set with printoseal embossments. Thank you.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:27 AM
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I use shellac gasket adhesive for the intake ports on both sides. Then Permatex “The Right Stuff” for the coolant passages and a big bead of it in place of the cork. I would not trust the cork either to seal or stay put. The Right Stuff is pretty amazing. Use the narrow tip for the intake gasket, then take that nozzle off and just use the “EZ Cheez”-type tip to express a big fat bead on the clean block surface.

I’ve tried all the alternative ways you mentioned and ended up with leaks. I’ll never go back to any other method now.

Also, make very sure that you are using the correct gaskets for the intake. The main difference between the early and late versions is the size of the coolant ports. If you use the wrong one, you will develop a coolant leak at the corner. They look very similar, and generally at least two different kinds ship in gasket sets.

No need to bother plugging the exhaust crossover ports. Those are there by design, although some argue they are not necessary. My understanding is that they are intended to heat the incoming fuel to better vaporize/atomize for more efficient burning.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 07:29 AM
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I've used the cork end seals and have not had an issue since I use Indian Head gasket shellac which locks them in place. I also use it for cork valve cover and oil pan gaskets. People run into issues as they think that RTV is an adhesive and it's not until it is fully cured. When it comes to the end seals, it acts like a lubricant and the seal pops out. Do put a blob in each corner where the cork meets the gasket and maybe a film around each water port. Leave the exhaust crossovers open, you're running an iron intake so there's nothing to be gained except poor driveability.

Just to be clear, the gaskets should be secured to the block and heads, not the intake, for installation. I also recommend that you make a couple dry runs without the gaskets in place so you can get the feel for putting it in place.

Make sure you torque the intake to the specs in the shop manual and follow the bolt tightening sequence.

Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 08:21 AM
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If you need any extra cork gaskets, I've probably got a box full of all the ones I refused to use....
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Great info here, thanks all. I plan to do a couple of mock dry-runs to get my motions in sync.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wilson_ View Post
Great info here, thanks all. I plan to do a couple of mock dry-runs to get my motions in sync.
Just loosly thread a long stud into each head at the corners and the intake will slide straight into the right place, hand thread a couple of bolts in the middle, back out the studs and go on with the rest.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 11:39 AM
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I have done this few times, leaked on me the first time. Got it right the second time. My tips: clean, clean, clean all surfaces. Get some threaded rods, 4-5" long and loosely put them in each corner, use them to perfectly align everything as you slide the intake down, un-screw them and replace with your intake bolts when ready to tighten it down. Follow the torq sequence and specs for your intake.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 03:02 PM
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Here’s what I did:

Stock J-code 302 engine.
(1) Threw away the cork gaskets that go on the end “china walls” and used Ultra-black instead (applied liberally).
(2) Used bolts (with heads removed) at opposite corners to line up the intake manifold for a “first time correct” installation.
(3) Cleaned all mating surfaces. Cleaned them again. Put paper or towels down in the lifter valley when cleaning the head surfaces so that dirt, etc doesn’t get into lifter bores, etc.
(4) Put a *very light* skin of RTV just around the coolant ports, both on the heads and on gasket toward the intake… just enough to fill any slight imperfections/scratches in the heads/intake that might be there.
(5) I aligned and then installed the gaskets on the heads using Permatex high-tack gasket sealer to hold them in place so they would not shift when the manifold is laid down on them.

Per a comment above: “Also, make very sure that you are using the correct gaskets for the intake. The main difference between the early and late versions is the size of the coolant ports. If you use the wrong one, you will develop a coolant leak at the corner...”

++1 on that comment. I originally bought the higher price Fel-Pro gasket (thinking expensive = better) which was made for any generic 302 engine compatible with different heads, some which have larger coolant ports. Because it allowed for larger coolant ports, there was less gasket material between the port and the corner of head. It leaked so I had to remove it and do it again… &#@(!*&&%. Second time I bought the Fel-Pro print-o-seal gasket that had the same sized coolant ports as my particular set of stock heads. Installed it exactly the same way I had the first set of gaskets. Worked perfectly.

One other suggestion. Once you’ve got the intake installed and let any RTV set up, pressure check the cooling system (eg mine is spec’ed for 13psi) and check for leaks *before* you reinstall everything else. This will save you some time. On the first gasket I put on, it started leaking at ~10psi. Second gasket was tested up to ~15psi (don’t push it any higher than than) and held pressure fine (15min was how long I checked for). Had I just re-installed everything, started the engine everything would have looked fine (even with the original “leaky” gasket). Only sometime in the future, on a hot day, when the psi > 10 would I have found the leak.

Also, here Youtube is your friend. If I recall correctly, there were some good intake installation videos from channels:
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all. I ditched the cork for the china walls and instead laid big fat beads of Ultra Black as suggested. The alignment pins were a big assist for getting intake right the first time with no movement. Used contact cement to help place intake and exhaust manifolds. Watched a few youtubes also. She went together like a champ and purrs like a kitty.

Pics and addtl info are on the thread b4 this one (Autolite 2100 Carburetor...). Smiling.
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