Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
1. Drain cooling system, remove thermostat and reconnect thermostat housing.
2. Flush with fresh tap water.
3. Fill system with tap water and add one bottle of "Shout!" laundry spot remover.
4. Run engine to operating temperature, then continue for 10-15 minutes at fast idle.
5. Drain and flush with fresh tap water.
These steps will remove any petroleum residues from the system.
6. Flush the system using Mercedes-Benz citric acid-based cooling system flush. Repeat as needed until water runs clear. Typically no more than 2 applications are needed.
7. Install new 195*F thermostat.
8. Fill system with coolant mix or, if using a concentrate, dilute only with distilled (NOT filtered or deionized) water.
This is assuming the remainder of your cooling system components are in good condition. If your water pump is leaking, rebuild or replace it. Replace any deteriorated hoses (and belts). If the radiator has "punky" fins, which are corroded or not in good contact with the tubes, recore or replace it.
My recommendations for a "heavy-duty" cooling system for a small block Ford are:
1. Three-row copper and brass radiator equal to the OE specification for "Air Conditioning" applications.
2. Milodon aluminum Performance Water Pump.
3. "RobertShaw" (now made/sold by FlowKooler.
4. Lower radiator hose with anti-suction spring.
5. Heavy-duty THERMAL fan clutch w/OE-style fan.
6. "Air Conditioning" fan shroud.
and the following:
a. Manifold vacuum source for vacuum advance or utilization of DVCV (distributor vacuum control valve) to modulate signal based on coolant temperature.
b. Hot Idle Compensator or electronic throttle "kicker" solenoid to raise idle speed based on ambient temperature (Hot Idle Compensator) or A/C compressor clutch cycling (throttle kicker).
What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman