Complete Floor Pan - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 04:30 PM
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what does "dropped shipped" mean?
It means it's shipped directly from the manufacturer/distributor right to the end user, without going through the selling dealer. Saves shipping costs.

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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 05:29 PM
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Sorry to hijack this thread. Itís easier to have big things drop shipped from their warehouse and leaves my shop open for more cars lol. I charge actual shipping and Iím doing this to help my shop customers and I offer discounts to VMF members. I can get any parts from dynacorn, just not mustang parts. Also AMK parts too.


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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 06:35 PM
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So how much should having something like this done? I don't know how to weld and if I wanted to do this I'd want to have a good shop do this.
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1966 Mustang 2-Door Coupe
Engine: 1980 302 bored 0.060, so 311 ci. 351 heads, Holley 670 cfm 4 barrel, Eldebrock Torker II 289 intake, Competition Cam 276 duration 490 lift.
Trans: 1966 C4, recently rebuilt
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:00 AM
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A lot. Mostly because you are going to find that replacing the floor just exposes the other problems a car that needs a new floor has. Wish I didn't know this.
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:06 AM
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Once you get into that, you have opened a can of worms. Iíve pieced together rails, trunk pan and floor pans before. It cheaper as far as parts at first, labor will be more. But if you get the whole assembly, more up front parts wise and less labor actually in the long run. Usually I do restomods and donít care about original metal. Iím to the point I buy the whole floor assembly anymore and start from there.


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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:50 AM
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So a lot like 5K or a lot like 10K? Or more?

1966 Mustang 2-Door Coupe
Engine: 1980 302 bored 0.060, so 311 ci. 351 heads, Holley 670 cfm 4 barrel, Eldebrock Torker II 289 intake, Competition Cam 276 duration 490 lift.
Trans: 1966 C4, recently rebuilt
Rear End: 8.8" rear end, 3.73 ratio w/ tractionlok, sourced from 91-94 explorer
Brakes: disc in front, drum in rear. Manual all around, single reservoir
Non-numbers matching

My plan is just to build a decently powerful muscle car that looks good but is a driver not a show car.
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:09 AM
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Well I can tell you if a car needs the entire bottom replaced, you will also need repairs to quarters, wheel houses and likely firewall at the very least. And if you have to pay a shop to do it, trust me...you are MUCH further ahead holding off and trying to locate another car. Now if you have oodles of spare time, a shop, welder, compressor, tools and deep pockets it can be done at home.
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:31 AM
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A lot like "good lord, what have I done".



Just replacing the floor might be like $7k if that was it. Also, depends on your shop and if somehow the rest of the car didn't need to be touched. But that is also a fairy tale that just doesn't happen. You will find spots that you didn't see before which are rotted out, or hidden by a previous owner, or just repaired terribly with bondo and fiberglass patches over rust. Then it becomes "while I am in there, I should fix that" and "its cheaper to buy a new piece of metal than pay to have it patched".

Spend an extra $10k on a car that doesn't need a floor. If you are thinking about fixing a car you already own, I'm sorry. I hope you have the money to cover the nostalgia. I feel your pain and have been there. I sat on my coupe from high school for years, saying i would fix it some day. Eventually I did after I let it rot from neglect for nearly 20 years. That is an expensive coupe, with only real value to me.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 02:11 PM
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So a lot like 5K or a lot like 10K? Or more?


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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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I would go this route in a heartbeat if I were to do another mustang.

Personally, I’d order one for a convertible gt. You’ll get the benefit of the added inner rockers and one piece seat pan and also the hangers for the dual exhaust. You’ll gain proven beam/torsional strength and the only downside being you’ll need to order convertible carpet and kick panels when you get to that point.
Yep, I already have all the metal to add in the very inner rockers and one piece seat pan. Not hard to add later!
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 01:07 PM
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Not sure if you've watched any of his videos on Youtube, but Jo Daddy's Garage installed one of these on a 65 mustang that he was restoring. Its broken into a few parts but he goes through his whole fit up and everything. He also replaced just about every piece of metal on the car by the time he's done so if you need to see any other parts might be helpful...

Here is one of the videos for the floor replacement:
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Just make sure you have all your measurements and everything braced. Keep your old stuff just in case you need some brackets that aren’t welded on the new floor. I just did this on a 67 coupe a couple of months ago. It had a lot of rust and time wise it really helped out instead of piece by piece. Like all repo parts, you have to make it fit though. Mine was really close. Also, I’m a dynacorn distributor and give forum members a discount. I can get it for you cheaper that CJ. Send me a text at 8126601062.


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What are some must brace items? I welded some 1x1 square tubing between both pillars and the wheel houses anything else?
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 06:27 PM
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I bought the one piece floor and in my opinion it actually saves work and its a much cleaner job when done. I have had mine in and out and fitted but have yet to weld it in place. I have pre drilled all mt weld holes but I choose to wait on welding it in to finish the other work I needed to do which is easier with the floor out.

I bought the regular one piece pan for my coupe and later learned of the vert mods. I will be returning my seat pans and buying the vert inner rockers and vert seat pan. I just have to bend the floor pan lip down instead of it being up like it is now.

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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:35 PM
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I bought the one piece floor and in my opinion it actually saves work and its a much cleaner job when done. I have had mine in and out and fitted but have yet to weld it in place. I have pre drilled all mt weld holes but I choose to wait on welding it in to finish the other work I needed to do which is easier with the floor out.



I bought the regular one piece pan for my coupe and later learned of the vert mods. I will be returning my seat pans and buying the vert inner rockers and vert seat pan. I just have to bend the floor pan lip down instead of it being up like it is now.


Itís easier to just cut the lip off completely and weld to the bottom of the vert inner rocker from below. No need to bend the lip down.
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I bought the one piece floor and in my opinion it actually saves work and its a much cleaner job when done. I have had mine in and out and fitted but have yet to weld it in place. I have pre drilled all mt weld holes but I choose to wait on welding it in to finish the other work I needed to do which is easier with the floor out.



I bought the regular one piece pan for my coupe and later learned of the vert mods. I will be returning my seat pans and buying the vert inner rockers and vert seat pan. I just have to bend the floor pan lip down instead of it being up like it is now.


It’s easier to just cut the lip off completely and weld to the bottom of the vert inner rocker from below. No need to bend the lip down.
Guys, how should I reinforce the car in prep for removal? I have bars going between the A pillars, the B pillars and the wheel houses. Anything else?
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