Complete Floor Pan - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 12:39 AM
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I assume you mean you have bars similar to what I have in my picture above? That was all the bracing I used, and I also had to replace most of the lower structure behind the B pillars. Just use a lot of C clamps, then sheet metal screws before you weld it.
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post #32 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 07:57 PM
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I measured everything from width to the heights from the floor to the rails. I had jack stands on the tail end of the rockers and the front frame rail where the front torque boxes would go. I also have a bottle jack under the front of the core support to hold it all in place. I had to do this because i replaced the entire rear frame rails, transition pan and trunk floor. Then worked my way to the quarter panels.


My old car. Working on a 66 coupe with my son.
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post #33 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 08:21 PM
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I have researched this endlessly as I am literally in the middle of doing this very thing, welding in a bunch of braces will make the job nearly impossible. Pull the car down to the shell and put stands under the rockers, level the car and go to work. If your car moves that much after cutting out a rusty floor then you have bigger issues IMO. My car was driven for a few years, prior to my buying it with the front floors rusted out bad and there was little to no movement in the rest of the car. Doors, fenders, etc still had decent gaps.


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post #34 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 09:18 PM
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I should add I adjusted my doors to fit perfect and kept an eye on the door gaps and front fender gaps.


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post #35 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 03:58 PM
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it's fun, really

rule #1 there is no such thing as too many measurements.
rule #2 take pictures of EVERYTHING for reference. The things in the background are as important as the original object of the picture.
rule #3 unless you have a Boss 429 you can't afford to have someone else do it. Look at it as a challenge and a learning experience. You will learn how to weld, grind, paint, measure, cut off welds, re-weld, align panels, do internet research and by the time you are done you will have immense pride and satisfaction in a completing a project most people won't have the opportunity to do.
If you are doing this to make a buck, forget it. You have to want to do it.
I just finished my 69 Mach 1 with a Thoroughbred full floor. Absolutely useless customer support. I'm not surprised they are gone. I replaced almost every piece of sheet metal except the roof, cowl and door frames but then I've had the car since "81 so i'm attached to it. I have three years in this restoration and i just fired it up last week. I did a minor restoration on it in '85.
The bracing is helpful but more than likely your body is not square anyway so count on cutting the braces off when you put it together because the object is that it will be better than it is now. The braces are more useful to keep it from collapsing than alignment.This is a big project and if you're not a mechanical person it will be hard getting started but once you get into it, it will be progressively easier as you go. it's a lot of fun in a twisted way.
If it needs a floor pan, it's going to need a lot more as you open it up. And then you will want to add better suspension, play with the motor, maybe the trans, some cool guy interior, etc.
But first you need a place to work on it for awhile.
Take pictures and post a few.
Have fun and good luck!!
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post #36 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by StangzStangz View Post
So you use plumb bobs when you donít need the tram gauge? Do you level the car first? Are you hanging them from the center of the holes, letting them settle, and then marking the floor?

Why not use a tram gauge for all the measurements??
The advantage to plum bobs is that you can let them hang in place. Mark the floor directly under them. This gives you a quick visual reference if you have to make any adjustments or if you are concerned that something has moved. You don't have to keep getting gauges and tape measure out every time you bump it. Also, if you are off, you can measure a second mark on the floor and start adjusting until the plum bob is directly over the new mark. THEN get the gauges and tapes out to verify.

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