Complete Floor Pan - Vintage Mustang Forums
 9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 7
Complete Floor Pan

Hey all,


Just joined and could use some advice.


After doing some research about replacing multiple frame parts on my 1967 coupe I decided to go with a complete floor pan. Seems like it would be easier and more accurate.


Looking at this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn...gaAuNGEALw_wcB


Has anyone here installed one of these? How was the install and what measurements were key to ensuring it was done correctly? What was your opinion of the complete floor pan?


Any tips would be great!


Thanks
StangzStangz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 09:57 AM
Senior Member
 
cobra94svt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Newburgh,IN
Posts: 1,246
Just make sure you have all your measurements and everything braced. Keep your old stuff just in case you need some brackets that arenít welded on the new floor. I just did this on a 67 coupe a couple of months ago. It had a lot of rust and time wise it really helped out instead of piece by piece. Like all repo parts, you have to make it fit though. Mine was really close. Also, Iím a dynacorn distributor and give forum members a discount. I can get it for you cheaper that CJ. Send me a text at 8126601062.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current stable
65 fastback
65 coupe
66 coupe
94 Cobra, on a rotisserie right now
cobra94svt is offline  
post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 10:01 AM
Senior Member
 
cobra94svt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Newburgh,IN
Posts: 1,246
Must people use the Liskey drawings for dimensions.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current stable
65 fastback
65 coupe
66 coupe
94 Cobra, on a rotisserie right now
cobra94svt is offline  
 
post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 02:34 PM
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 4,724
I put one in my 66. Got mine from Thoroughbred manufacturing but they have since gone out of business. Mine fit like a glove I have some pics of the install in my build thread.
Caper50 is offline  
post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caper50 View Post
I put one in my 66. Got mine from Thoroughbred manufacturing but they have since gone out of business. Mine fit like a glove I have some pics of the install in my build thread.
Would love to see the pics, so you have a link to your thread? Or how can I find it?
StangzStangz is offline  
post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 12:12 AM
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 4,724
Click on Brian's 66 hardtop build
Caper50 is offline  
post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra94svt View Post
Must people use the Liskey drawings for dimensions.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cobra,


Question about these diagrams from Liskey and Ford. Am I to use a tram gauge to verify ALL of the measurements or just the ones with a T next to them? How does one ensure they are centered in the holes? If I only use a tram gauge on some and not on others, then how I am I supposed to measure the others?


Thanks!

Last edited by StangzStangz; 07-01-2019 at 09:53 AM.
StangzStangz is offline  
post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 10:44 AM
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 838
Honestly, you are best tracing the existing floor pan before removing it...it sits on the lower firewall at the front(floor-firewall-extensions they are sometimes called...but they are part of the firewall) and on the shock mount panel at the back where it drops in a radius below the rear seat(you can see some of the details in my daily driver build thread...replaced the vast majority of my floors in various patch panels). Assuming that the replacement full floor pan is the same(and most of them probably are) you should be able to realign it off your tracing marks. The only real concern you should have is keeping the car braced while you do the surgery...pan alignment itself will be easy.

P.S. Just for reference...the back lip of the pan sitting on the shock panel ledge(minus where I cut it away to repair some rot...also a useful picture because it shows the frame rail location at the back.



What you will find is that if you verify measurements on the new vs. old pan from rocker to rocker, there is only one way it fits in width-wise...and front to back if you trace your old pan before removal and verify those measurements too, you wont have any issue, always assuming the car is well braced before removal(probably the biggest reason I chose the piecemeal approach...I was able to cut out one section at a time so I didnt have to do that...good enough for a daily driver...not ideal fort a show car unless you spend a lot of time on grinding butt welds perfectly)

Last edited by wicked93gs; 07-01-2019 at 10:54 AM.
wicked93gs is offline  
post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 11:11 AM
Senior Member
 
cobra94svt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Newburgh,IN
Posts: 1,246
I use a tram for the ones marked ďTĒ. As far as the center of the holes I just eye ball it. I use a laser, and plum bobs. Iíve built a frame jig for the cars I do. That way I can see if there is any other problems. Then I brace it, a lot. I check everything again, and start cutting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current stable
65 fastback
65 coupe
66 coupe
94 Cobra, on a rotisserie right now
cobra94svt is offline  
post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra94svt View Post
I use a tram for the ones marked “T”. As far as the center of the holes I just eye ball it. I use a laser, and plum bobs. I’ve built a frame jig for the cars I do. That way I can see if there is any other problems. Then I brace it, a lot. I check everything again, and start cutting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you use plumb bobs when you don’t need the tram gauge? Do you level the car first? Are you hanging them from the center of the holes, letting them settle, and then marking the floor?

Why not use a tram gauge for all the measurements??
StangzStangz is offline  
post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 05:48 AM
Senior Member
 
Riley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,095
I would go this route in a heartbeat if I were to do another mustang.

Personally, Iíd order one for a convertible gt. Youíll get the benefit of the added inner rockers and one piece seat pan and also the hangers for the dual exhaust. Youíll gain proven beam/torsional strength and the only downside being youíll need to order convertible carpet and kick panels when you get to that point.
Riley is offline  
post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 07:49 AM
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 4,724
Not sure where you are located but Stangaholics has a better price

https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-2419...ame-rails.html

Also I didn't use a tram gauge. The inner rocker of the new floor lined up perfectly with the outer rocker on my car. Both inner and outer rockers will have a notch to match up. Also as Riley pointed out I'd also go with the vert floor if doing another one.
Caper50 is offline  
post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 11:43 AM
Senior Member
 
BradAlbrecht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 589
Garage
I got mine from Stangaholics as well. Drop shipped, and no issues.
BradAlbrecht is offline  
post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 12:05 PM
Senior Member
 
cobra94svt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Newburgh,IN
Posts: 1,246
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradAlbrecht View Post
I got mine from Stangaholics as well. Drop shipped, and no issues.


If you need more dynacorn sheet metal let me know. I give forum members a discount on here. Can beat that price and have stuff dropped shipped from the Camarillo CA warehouse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current stable
65 fastback
65 coupe
66 coupe
94 Cobra, on a rotisserie right now
cobra94svt is offline  
post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 04:26 PM
Senior Member
Supporting Member
 
rdu_pony's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 103
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra94svt View Post
If you need more dynacorn sheet metal let me know. I give forum members a discount on here. Can beat that price and have stuff dropped shipped from the Camarillo CA warehouse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what does "dropped shipped" mean?
cobra94svt likes this.

1966 Mustang 2-Door Coupe
Engine: 1980 302 bored 0.060, so 311 ci. 351 heads, Holley 670 cfm 4 barrel, Eldebrock Torker II 289 intake, Competition Cam 276 duration 490 lift.
Trans: 1966 C4, recently rebuilt
Rear End: 8.8" rear end, 3.73 ratio w/ tractionlok, sourced from 91-94 explorer
Brakes: disc in front, drum in rear. Manual all around, single reservoir
Non-numbers matching

My plan is just to build a decently powerful muscle car that looks good but is a driver not a show car.
rdu_pony is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome