Disc conversion advise - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 02:07 AM
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I just looked at adding factory style front discs and decided not to right now. When I priced the kits and buying the parts there wasn't that much difference between buying the parts separately or buying a kit with the quality of the parts equal. I decided to get back on the road and put off the brakes until later. I'll likely get the KH kit from Chock. It's a bit more expensive but it's reproduction of the original. I've already got modern springs and shocks and want to keep the rest of it as period correct, looking anyway, as I can.

@malstrom if you get your drum brake setup adjusted properly with working parts you'll be OK as a cruiser even with manual brakes. It's not going to stop like a disc setup in a modern car but if you change your braking style and expectations you'll be OK.

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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by malstrom View Post
Mustang 4

thanks that's very nice offer. Do you run 14 inch 1967 style steel wheels?

Lawrence

I have 66 steel wheels (see pictures). If you want to swing by shoot me a PM, I live in Mountain View.
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1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 03:39 AM
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I have run KH setup on our 66 over ten year no issues.
But whatever setup you decide on, if disc up front and drums out back a prpprtion valve is a must.
Disc need 900psi while drums only 300 or so psi.
In the past power booster/Raul reservoir MC was a figment issue on 65 or 66’s. Shock tower interference. But many more options available today, PB are handy imho.

Good luck.
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
For a '66?

Raybestos MC36440 disc/drum master cylinder (dual bowl), using original pushrod.
Generic in-line 10# residual valve for rear circuit. Install at master cylinder port.
*Generic adjustable proportioning valve in rear circuit.
*Generic brass "tee" for front circuit.

* In lieu of these a GM-style combination valve with brake system warning lamp can be used.

OE-style Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston calipers, mounts and rotors.

My recommendation would also be Chockostang.

Hey Bart

Thanks again for the help. I guess what I'm going to do now that I have new dot5 and two new wheel cylinders, is do a master upgrade with the four drums. . I might as well do the brake bleed just once. So I like your part reference on price and design. But I was thinking of buying a power booster with it. What kind of clearance problems do you think I will have ?
what part can you recommend.
Enclosed is a cute combo.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-c...CABEgK6LPD_BwE

66 Fastback

289 Auto C4 "C" code with added 4 bbl


We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 66_72stanger View Post
I have run KH setup on our 66 over ten year no issues.
But whatever setup you decide on, if disc up front and drums out back a prpprtion valve is a must.
Disc need 900psi while drums only 300 or so psi.
In the past power booster/Raul reservoir MC was a figment issue on 65 or 66’s. Shock tower interference. But many more options available today, PB are handy imho.

Good luck.
Hey "stanger"

thats a lot of psi pressure. Is a Power booster required . I have seen discs running with just the old beer can single resoviour.

Thx

Lawrence

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289 Auto C4 "C" code with added 4 bbl


We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:14 PM
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I went with SSBC for rear disc conversion (I had factory front discs) and had a pretty poor experience. I've done some business with Chock recently (he rebuilt a P/S pump and steering box for me) and they were returned set to factory specifications, painted and all. He's a great guy and he'll take good care of you, and we've all heard great things about his disc brake conversions. If I had to do it again, I would go with Chock!

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
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All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:26 PM
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Hey Bart

Thanks again for the help. I guess what I'm going to do now that I have new dot5 and two new wheel cylinders, is do a master upgrade with the four drums. . I might as well do the brake bleed just once. So I like your part reference on price and design. But I was thinking of buying a power booster with it. What kind of clearance problems do you think I will have ?
what part can you recommend.
Enclosed is a cute combo.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-c...CABEgK6LPD_BwE
I'm not a big fan of power brake boosters on "early" cars, especially with the short distance between the firewall and shock tower... On the other hand, if you have a bum leg then you might find one worthwhile. FWIW, it won't make you stop any better, quicker, straighter.... Anyhow, check the specs thoroughly.... many can't be used with manual transmissions due to interference with the clutch linkage, etc. Do you homework.

Now, my $0.02 on DOT5 brake fluid. You have to THOROUGHLY flush the entire system, lines, hoses, EVERYTHING before adding DOT5 fluid. Also, DOT5 easily aerates so if you're out on the track you can expect the pedal to get a bit spongy. Lastly, DOT5 will NOT absorb moisture. Because of this it is IMPERATIVE that you flush your brake system ANNUALLY, preferably right before end of season storage. If you don't, any moisture that has entered the system will settle to the lowest point and start rusting steel/iron. That's one of the "good" things about DOT3/DOT4... it absorbs water so when you flush the system the water gets flushed, too.

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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 09:42 AM
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Hey Bart

Thanks again for the help. I guess what I'm going to do now that I have new dot5 and two new wheel cylinders, is do a master upgrade with the four drums. . I might as well do the brake bleed just once. So I like your part reference on price and design. But I was thinking of buying a power booster with it. What kind of clearance problems do you think I will have ?
what part can you recommend.
Enclosed is a cute combo.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-c...CABEgK6LPD_BwE
That one should work as long as you don't have a Borgeson power steering box. It wouldn't fit in my '66 with that box. But if you want power steering, I'd recommend getting a master cylinder with booster. Hopefully the booster pin length will already be adjusted as it was in the Master Power Brakes kit I got from CJP.

And as has probably already been mentioned, a booster only makes it easier to apply the brakes. It has no effect on the fluid pressure, which can exceed 1000psi.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 10:00 AM
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@malstrom if you get your drum brake setup adjusted properly with working parts you'll be OK as a cruiser even with manual brakes. It's not going to stop like a disc setup in a modern car but if you change your braking style and expectations you'll be OK.
When I bought my Mustang I had to do the brakes. Small blocks use a 2.25” wide shoe and big blocks used a 2.50” wide shoe. I noticed when buying new front drums which were finned that there was only 1 drum listed for both small and big block cars. So I installed big block 2.50” shoes and hold down kit on my 66. They worked very well! I don’t ever recall and issues with them fading. When I installed disc brakes I was disappointed. I was expecting a big difference, didn’t notice much of anything. In the days before disc brakes, drum brakes were radially drilled to aid cooling in Indy cars.
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
I'm not a big fan of power brake boosters on "early" cars, especially with the short distance between the firewall and shock tower... On the other hand, if you have a bum leg then you might find one worthwhile. FWIW, it won't make you stop any better, quicker, straighter.... Anyhow, check the specs thoroughly.... many can't be used with manual transmissions due to interference with the clutch linkage, etc. Do you homework.

Now, my $0.02 on DOT5 brake fluid. You have to THOROUGHLY flush the entire system, lines, hoses, EVERYTHING before adding DOT5 fluid. Also, DOT5 easily aerates so if you're out on the track you can expect the pedal to get a bit spongy. Lastly, DOT5 will NOT absorb moisture. Because of this it is IMPERATIVE that you flush your brake system ANNUALLY, preferably right before end of season storage. If you don't, any moisture that has entered the system will settle to the lowest point and start rusting steel/iron. That's one of the "good" things about DOT3/DOT4... it absorbs water so when you flush the system the water gets flushed, too.
DOT 3 is a Phenolic based fluid. What about DOT 4?

66 Fastback

289 Auto C4 "C" code with added 4 bbl


We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by reevescajr View Post
That one should work as long as you don't have a Borgeson power steering box. It wouldn't fit in my '66 with that box. But if you want power steering, I'd recommend getting a master cylinder with booster. Hopefully the booster pin length will already be adjusted as it was in the Master Power Brakes kit I got from CJP.

And as has probably already been mentioned, a booster only makes it easier to apply the brakes. It has no effect on the fluid pressure, which can exceed 1000psi.

Hi

As I look again at the CJP photo those idiots flopped the image . I dont know of any master that has port access on the inner fender side. Unless its built for an Australian car.

Any how. I have auto transmission and OEM power steering now. Did you notice a n improved difference making the conversion?

66 Fastback

289 Auto C4 "C" code with added 4 bbl


We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Now, my $0.02 on DOT5 brake fluid. You have to THOROUGHLY flush the entire system, lines, hoses, EVERYTHING before adding DOT5 fluid. Also, DOT5 easily aerates so if you're out on the track you can expect the pedal to get a bit spongy. Lastly, DOT5 will NOT absorb moisture. Because of this it is IMPERATIVE that you flush your brake system ANNUALLY, preferably right before end of season storage. If you don't, any moisture that has entered the system will settle to the lowest point and start rusting steel/iron. That's one of the "good" things about DOT3/DOT4... it absorbs water so when you flush the system the water gets flushed, too.
As my buddy who tracks his car semi-regularly told me, when that moisture in the Dot 4 gets hot, it turns to steam, and causes major problems with brakes fading. Which is why he switched to Dot 5, and gets to finish his runs without losing brakes.
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 07:18 PM
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Dot 5 is fine in racing applications where it gets regular flushing. Left long term in a street car application were often times nothing is ever done for fluid service its my experience it slowly turns to nasty gel like gunk.

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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 04:55 PM
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I just bought and installed a standard drum to power disc conversion kit made by SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Company) and sold by CJ Pony Parts. A stiff warning here, don’t expect any customer service or good advice from either of these terrible companies.

My kit was complete and very easy to install...but when I went to bleed the new calipers the left one would not bleed. Assuming some manufacturing defect I contacted CJ who immediately told me to call SSBC as they are the warrantor. SSBC would not return my calls, and I tried for about a week to reach someone, I believe his name was Tony—still no call back. Making a long story short, I disassembled the caliper myself, found some foreign matter that blocked the passageway to the bleeder screw and now it works just fine.

My warning to all is that SSBC is NOT a reputable company and couldn’t give a damn about customer service. As for CJ Pony, they were of no help and will never see my business again. Please be careful when dealing with either of these loser companies.
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Neils289gt View Post
I just bought and installed a standard drum to power disc conversion kit made by SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Company) and sold by CJ Pony Parts. A stiff warning here, don’t expect any customer service or good advice from either of these terrible companies.

My kit was complete and very easy to install...but when I went to bleed the new calipers the left one would not bleed. Assuming some manufacturing defect I contacted CJ who immediately told me to call SSBC as they are the warrantor. SSBC would not return my calls, and I tried for about a week to reach someone, I believe his name was Tony—still no call back. Making a long story short, I disassembled the caliper myself, found some foreign matter that blocked the passageway to the bleeder screw and now it works just fine.

My warning to all is that SSBC is NOT a reputable company and couldn’t give a damn about customer service. As for CJ Pony, they were of no help and will never see my business again. Please be careful when dealing with either of these loser companies.
Thank you Neil

I have had the same experience with CJ pony. Thansk you or the head up. I will buy elsewhere mostly with chockostang I'm guessing.

66 Fastback

289 Auto C4 "C" code with added 4 bbl


We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
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