Best options on a new engine? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Best options on a new engine?

I have a 65 mustang with an engine that is making some noise in the bottom end (never get another man's project and assume they are telling you everything about the car..my fault -lesson learned).



What are my best options on putting a rebuilt engine in? I have access to a 289 ci engine - long block I'm currently running a 71 302. Problem is I don't have the space or time to build it myself and no real experience either.



I can either buy a rebuilt engine or have the 289 rebuilt or the 302 (which will take longer - it will have to be pulled - but will have to pulled sometime). I called a couple of places that I know build engines but I haven't heard back as yet. Better to buy outright?

I would like a little more power - say around 300/325 hp - maybe a 331 or 347? I would like to keep the costs to a reasonable level - say $3.5K?


Any advice? Thanks!

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:25 PM
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What’s the details on the 302 and 289? Have either been rebuilt before? If so how much was it bored over? Pulling an engine doesn’t take that long. If it’s never been rebuilt I’d pull the 302 and go that route

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:41 PM
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Have the 289 rebuilt, then do the quick change.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:46 PM
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Explorer GT40P swap
Used GT40P can be had for less than 500 bucks from salvage yards or ebay. Mine had 118k on on it and looked new inside factory cross hatching and no cylinder ridge. Several of us have made the swap and I doubt any of us would look back with regret. And you won't have to play the what oil /zddp game
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...g-my-66-a.html
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Explorer GT40P swap
Used GT40P can be had for less than 500 bucks from salvage yards or ebay. Mine had 118k on on it and looked new inside factory cross hatching and no cylinder ridge. Several of us have made the swap and I doubt any of us would look back with regret. And you won't have to play the what oil /zddp game
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...g-my-66-a.html

Thanks guys for the info I'll check out the thread. I just got a quote from a machine shop for $3,300 for a straight stock build. I'd like to do a little more and use the 289 while I drive the the 302.


Oh yeh I don't know the conditions of either engines...

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..

Last edited by 69RR; 07-06-2019 at 05:03 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Explorer GT40P swap
Used GT40P can be had for less than 500 bucks from salvage yards or ebay. Mine had 118k on on it and looked new inside factory cross hatching and no cylinder ridge. Several of us have made the swap and I doubt any of us would look back with regret. And you won't have to play the what oil /zddp game
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...g-my-66-a.html

+1 on this. Just picked up a 98 Explorer motor with 106k mi. Same as 2nd 66 and others, inside is like new.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 09:50 PM
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I found a 351W about a mile away from my house. Mechanic who owns the business built the engine for himself but never put it in anything. My son delivered a pizza there and mentioned I was looking for an engine, and there it was: long block, decked heads, .030 bore, forged pistons, E-brock 351W intake, Performer Plus cam, and roller rockers. $1500.00.
Check your local garages and even the local Ford dealers. You never know what they've got in storage.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 07:31 AM
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If originality is not a concern, just get a reman longblock 302 from Rock auto. Option #2 for $1433.79 has the correct 28OZ imbalance of the pre-81 302 engine. Just swap all the parts from your existing 302 onto it and put it in.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ong+block,5240

If you decide to go the GT40 Explorer route, remans are available for not much more than they charge for engines around here.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ong+block,5240
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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If originality is not a concern, just get a reman longblock 302 from Rock auto. Option #2 for $1433.79 has the correct 28OZ imbalance of the pre-81 302 engine. Just swap all the parts from your existing 302 onto it and put it in.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ong+block,5240

If you decide to go the GT40 Explorer route, remans are available for not much more than they charge for engines around here.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ong+block,5240

Thanks - HK - That's definitely something I will consider. What is offered is better by half than a local machine shop can do.

Got my hands on the wheel, foot to the pedal, gonna drive this car till the tires turn to metal - gonna sleep when I'm dead and laugh at the devil..
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 09:44 AM
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I would stick with a production shop for rebuilt engines. Generally fewer issues than with small machine shops doing one off engines here and there. Also check to see if any shops near you are Jasper dealers as they might be able to give you a good price on an engine. They do a good quality product and was AGAPs only competitor at the time.

I will say that the prices I see on the net quoted for "machine shops" to rebuild engines are exorbitantly high which explains the prices of crate engine prices from the big 3...

Not too long ago long blocks for most common engines were around $500. 350s and 454s were only a few $ apart in cost as the parts cost was almost the same and machining is machining. It's the oddball engines that get expensive because you have to stop production of a common engine and set up for one odd engine. The exception to the pricing was the ford modular engine which was a horrible engine. When my dad was running AGAP they did quite a few of them and they were very expensive because most all the parts had to be bought from ford as the aftermarket took a very long time to make even gaskets for them.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:10 AM
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one of the Nice things about GT40P engines is you know they haven't been "raced hard" . at 118k Mine still had the factory cross hatch in the cylinders and no ridge. using a Used roller cam is a non issue and you don't need to play the what oil/ZDDP to use


Brad

Last edited by 2nd 66; 07-07-2019 at 10:12 AM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:16 AM
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Just pulled my motor by myself. First time ever doing it. It wasn't difficult. If you have the tools and a hoist, or borrow/rent one. Power tools made it alot easier.

Tons of good points from the guys here on the thread I started. By pulling it myself I can take my time and repaint my engine bay before deciding what motor to get. There is a book online on how to rebuild a 289, I started reading that yesterday and it would be a good place to start before pulling it.

If I were rebuilding I would follow some of the suggestions from this article
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...nce-v8-upgrade

Last edited by gen3; 07-07-2019 at 10:19 AM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:22 AM
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I'm doing the GT40P but one thing to think about is being realistic about how many miles you'll actually be putting on the car. If you're only going to do a couple of thousand a year and you're not going to hot-rod the thing, there's not much point in spending big bucks on a replacement engine. And cheap reliable small blocks are very available.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:32 AM
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Thanks - HK - That's definitely something I will consider. What is offered is better by half than a local machine shop can do.
Interesting price, I would probably pull the pan and re-torque the rods and mains as this is a production house. Would also re-torque the heads. I would definitely consider this route...

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:34 AM
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I'm doing the GT40P but one thing to think about is being realistic about how many miles you'll actually be putting on the car. If you're only going to do a couple of thousand a year and you're not going to hot-rod the thing, there's not much point in spending big bucks on a replacement engine. And cheap reliable small blocks are very available.

This is exactly why I did my GT40P swap. First off you know who built the motor and that theyíll last 300K miles. Even a 200k mike motor has a lot of life left. Is it the perfect swap, no but under the right conditions a killer swap! I paid $450 for the motor, trans and all the efi stuff. Sold off what I didnít want for $175. Used 5.0 cam $60, used Wieand Stealth USA made too $80, used Edelbrock 600 $125. Thereís a lot of cheap used 5.0 parts on the market. There is no issue putting in a used cam with roller tappets, no break in or wearing together. A cam swap can actually work out to be a lot cheaper then a flat tappet cam swap. Yes you will need to buy a swap balancer and flywheel but these are probably worn out and need to be replaced anyway.

Donít jump into this blindly but understanding whatís involved and benefits may work.
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