Got Real Hot But Luckily 302 Didn't Overheat - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 13Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Quicksilver66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Strange.... Ford sold a TON of 'em....
Likely before our traffic turned into one of the worst in the country... Today it took me 19 minutes to go two miles!

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9Ē rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

Follow me on Instacart

Last edited by Quicksilver66; 07-03-2019 at 09:32 PM.
Quicksilver66 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:31 PM
Senior Member
 
Quicksilver66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsbenami View Post
@Quicksilver66.....Mine is probably as bad or worse. I live in Alexandria and drive up to Ft. Meade 3 days a week. But never use the Mustang to commute, just on account of the (not converted yet) drum brakes and other obvious things. I take it up there to the base auto shop on weekends to do major work on it.

But this particular trip was from my father's garage in Silver Spring to a body shop in Pasadena, MD. Thought I left early enough to avoid the insaneballs traffic of the Baltimore and Montgomery County a construction mess plus holiday traffic caused a nasty jam on RT 100 near Glen Burnie. Hell traffic even by our standards. It was about 95F out. I'm impressed it ran smoothly through the grind....but that guage gave me some unwelcome stress and it was toasty without any A/C in that black interior.
Sorry, that could have been a nice drive if not for the traffic. Iíve definitely had those moments where the stress kicks in. Takes some of the fun out of driving. Sounds like the car didnít do too bad. I often say the car handles the traffic way better than I do. What are you having done at the body shop?

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9Ē rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

Follow me on Instacart
Quicksilver66 is offline  
post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
jsbenami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 135
Garage
@Woodchuck....Even when I was graduating highschool in the late 90's it was nothing like this in VA & MD. He's probably referring to the fact that our whacked out traffic is nothing like what Ford designed these cars for in the 60s. No offense, but I drove around parts of NH and VT when I was looking at Stang's this winter. There is probably nothing close to our traffic (or heat + humidity) here and that's a very good thing! Enjoy your open roads I can't wait until my Stang is fit enough to go and drive out in the mountains and countryside.
jsbenami is offline  
 
post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:45 PM
Senior Member
 
Woodchuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Vermont
Posts: 33,168
Send a message via Yahoo to Woodchuck
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsbenami View Post
@Woodchuck....Even when I was graduating highschool in the late 90's it was nothing like this in VA & MD. He's probably referring to the fact that our whacked out traffic is nothing like what Ford designed these cars for in the 60s. No offense, but I drove around parts of NH and VT when I was looking at Stang's this winter. There is probably nothing close to our traffic (or heat + humidity) here and that's a very good thing! Enjoy your open roads I can't wait until my Stang is fit enough to go and drive out in the mountains and countryside.
Well, I grew up in Philly in the sixties... many days of 90+F and 90+ relative humidity and bumper-to-bumper hold-ups on the "Surekill" Expressway... Even our old aluminum-block Buick didn't overheat. Cousins lived in Arizona... cars didn't overheat. Tons and Tons of Mustangs sold in SoCal... didn't overheat. It's not global warming, it's not the design or engineering... in many, many cases it's "tune", maintenance and poorly made replacement components.
DonP, 68Hildago and jsbenami like this.

Bart

What, me worry?
- Alfred E. Neuman

Woodchuck is online now  
post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
jsbenami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 135
Garage
@Quicksilver66 - Driver rear quarter small but growing rust growing rust by the edge, fix weld and match paint. A tiny spot starting on the RR frame rail. Only major rust spots on the car....rear window and trunk seals, also having him repaint a replacement front (mostly under front bumper) valance, and do an all-around paint chip fill/fix + buff job of the whole shabang to bring out the paint as much as it can shine. It is in descent shape but faded. That was going to run about 1,500 ish.

Was going to have him strip and repaint the inside doors (I took apart all door panels, seals and the vent windows) and rear inside covers but he now wants more than 2x what was being done above. $55 x 18 hours for the inside strip and paint. I'll probably just do it myself along with all the seals. He definitely started smelling money and Mustang passion after I agreed to the first set of work.

Saw some threads about people taking the door paint off w/a citrus stripper I've used on metal and wood before and repainting with the NPD rattle cans and primer with excellent results. I think I'll go that approach.
jsbenami is offline  
post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Quicksilver66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Well, I grew up in Philly in the sixties... many days of 90+F and 90+ relative humidity and bumper-to-bumper hold-ups on the "Surekill" Expressway... Even our old aluminum-block Buick didn't overheat. Cousins lived in Arizona... cars didn't overheat. Tons and Tons of Mustangs sold in SoCal... didn't overheat. It's not global warming, it's not the design or engineering... in many, many cases it's "tune", maintenance and poorly made replacement components.
Arizona is a dry heat, so....Iím kidding. Perhaps my anxiety over sitting in traffic in my mustang is unwarranted. The carís never shown any hint of overheating. Me on the other hand........

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9Ē rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

Follow me on Instacart
Quicksilver66 is offline  
post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:10 PM
Senior Member
 
Quicksilver66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsbenami View Post
@Quicksilver66 - Driver rear quarter small but growing rust growing rust by the edge, fix weld and match paint. A tiny spot starting on the RR frame rail. Only major rust spots on the car....rear window and trunk seals, also having him repaint a replacement front (mostly under front bumper) valance, and do an all-around paint chip fill/fix + buff job of the whole shabang to bring out the paint as much as it can shine. It is in descent shape but faded. That was going to run about 1,500 ish.

Was going to have him strip and repaint the inside doors (I took apart all door panels, seals and the vent windows) and rear inside covers but he now wants more than 2x what was being done above. $55 x 18 hours for the inside strip and paint. I'll probably just do it myself along with all the seals. He definitely started smelling money and Mustang passion after I agreed to the first set of work.

Saw some threads about people taking the door paint off w/a citrus stripper I've used on metal and wood before and repainting with the NPD rattle cans and primer with excellent results. I think I'll go that approach.
Doesnít seem like a bad price for that work. Good to get it taken care of. Too bad he canít do the doors for you too. How long will it take? Do you bring the car to Katieís? My guy in Virginia, near Fredericksburg is $45 an hour. He does fabrication and body work but not paint.

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9Ē rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

Follow me on Instacart
Quicksilver66 is offline  
post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:26 PM
Senior Member
 
LeeFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,444
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilver66 View Post
Today it took me 19 minutes to go two miles!
In my younger days, my training runs were faster than that!
New2me and Quicksilver66 like this.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
LeeFred is offline  
post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
jsbenami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 135
Garage
I’m in my 40s and my training runs, they still are 😜 much faster! If I take 10 minutes per mile I’d truly feel like a turtle. Not uncommon in the District itself to take an hour to go a few miles by car. Many bike, metro or walk. I have yet to truly feel brake fade even in hot traffic but the stopping curve is ‘very linear’. Hopping into to the 68 Mustang from late model cars has truly re-taught me the art of patience, distance and not driving like a douche all over again 😁 I truly realize that no one is getting anywhere any faster and this makes me a better and kinder driver even in my modern performance machine.
jsbenami is offline  
post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
jsbenami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 135
Garage
@Quicksilver66.... nope a guy in Pasadena MD not too far from Ft. Meade by work. Shane Hamilton of Hamilton Auto Restoration. So far so good. Probably done in 2-3 weeks. He has allot of business booked which is a good sign.
jsbenami is offline  
post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 04:54 PM
Senior Member
 
GT289's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 8,253
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsbenami View Post
@GT289....did not go with the 24" because I was told by numerous folks including the NPD guys at Michigan (best of their stores for knowledge) and Rick here on the Forum that buying a 24" was an overkill for my stock-ish rebuilt 302 even with an aftermarket A/C (which has not yet been reinstalled). If the guys who sell you a rad aren't saying you need the pricer one then it's probably not necessary. The 20" with the thick core 1.25" 2 row aluminum tubing vs old Copper Brass w/3 row .25" core is supposedly vastly better at cooling. With my 3-core copper/brass it would not overheat but was running hotter in cool weather so I decided to chuck it. When it was in use it had the non-clutched fan and I still wonder how much better of a job at idle the non-clutch fan would do.
You do what you think is best (obviously). I trust a local shop I've been calling on in the automotive industry for the last 24 years
called Griffith Radiator. They've been in business since 1921. If Roger told me a pink elephant just flew through his shop, then
I guess Dumbo does exist.
I also learned a lot of stuff from Delco Harrison working for GM back in the day. I don't like aluminum radiators. They aren't used
at the OE level for their superior cooling capabilities..... that's for sure. Aftermarket aluminum is a little different, depending upon
the core design. I still don't care for aluminum radiators though.
68Hildago likes this.

As the drill sergeant said, "I taught you everything you know. I didn't teach you everything I know."

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
GT289 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome