Rough Idle - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Removed the temp oil pressure gauge I installed yesterday and put the oil switch back in. I put a 4in standoff in the block so I can get to it easier. I dug my gauges out of the attic yesterday, I have Autometer American Muscle oil, water and volt gauges. I think I will run the oil and water gauges in a pod on the steering column. I will tee the standoff for the sending unit and I think I saw a plug in the block I can use for the temp gauge.

I turned the idle screw in a 1/2 turn. At temp the car idles rough and the alt light comes on. Now I get a nice black slick out of the exhaust when I start the car. I still have a rough idle, but it doesnt die at a stoplight. I pretty sure the carb is the issue.

I was all set to order a Summit 500 cfm carb, I thought they were back in stock, but the ship date is Aug 8. Thats the carb I really want but Im getting tired of waiting, so now Im thinking a Edlebrock 1403 or AVS2 instead.


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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:37 PM
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Why not just rebuild your existing carb?

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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2100s are 50+ years old, they can only be rebuilt so many times, plus I want to go from a 2V to a 4V.


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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:46 PM
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I just went through a bunch of this. I just got schooled on how to set up a holley carb (the analog way) from an old school hot rodding guy. He went for a ride in my car, and told me instantly the carb was not set up right and had a vacuum leak.

I think I just now "got it" after all these years and have started to learn how to set up a carb properly.

So after my experience I'd say that there could be a number of things causing issues.
You can check for a vacuum leak with propane, or starter fluid.

If it started runny crappy spontaneously and nothing is wrong with the engine;
Could be the carb is all gummed up with contaminants from gas (varnish etc) or has failed components inside.
Could be a vacuum leak
Could be a bad PCV
Could be that it was never set up right, and now that the engine is more seasoned, the bad setup is causing issues.

To tune properly, you'll need a vacuum gauge.
To set up your carb properly, you should have an O2 meter


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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcgc View Post
2100s are 50+ years old, they can only be rebuilt so many times, plus I want to go from a 2V to a 4V.
OK, sounds sounds more like you want a 4V. What intake are your considering?

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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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I have a bone stock 289 with 10k on a rebuild that was done 10 years ago.

stock heads, stock exhaust manifolds, stock dizzy, a really well done 2.25in welded dual exhaust system.

Im planning on a Weiand Street Warrior intake, Summit 500 cfm carb on a 1in phenolic spacer under a stock air cleaner if it all fits under the hood.


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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcgc View Post
I have a bone stock 289 with 10k on a rebuild that was done 10 years ago.

stock heads, stock exhaust manifolds, stock dizzy, a really well done 2.25in welded dual exhaust system.

Im planning on a Weiand Street Warrior intake, Summit 500 cfm carb on a 1in phenolic spacer under a stock air cleaner if it all fits under the hood.
Although a nice combo, that 1" spacer might be a stretch. Perhaps others running the same combo will chime in. I'm not familiar wth the dimensions of hat intake. But, a dual plane intake and, later, down the road, adding a set of repo GT exhaust manifolds would be a nice improvement and still keep her looking stock'ish.
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64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
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