68 Mustang Power steering vs Manual??? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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Old 07-17-2019, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankieThe69Kid View Post
Something else... tire pressure. 27 PSI means 27 PSI. Doesn't matter what tires you buy. For a number of years I've been using the "emergency vehicle" rule: Recommended pressure on the door jamb sticker, max pressure on the tire, set it halfway between. When I got the car back from the alignment shop I was amazed how well it handled. Got it back home and adjusted the pressure to the affore-stated specs and the car handled like crap. So, lesson learned: 27=27, so 27 it's been ever since.
Apologies to the OP for the departure from your P/S dilemma, but I wanted to discuss...

I don't follow the door sticker recommendations for tire pressure..... pretty much ever.
The tires on my Hyundai today are NOTHING like the tire construction of the 2007 OE
donuts that came on it. That's probably the closest thing to "stock" I own in the
suspension department. (Has Koni front and rear though) The ride is interesting at
the factory suggested tire pressures.... it doesn't get quite right until it's about 12
psi higher per corner. I am, however, somewhat compensating for leaving the
factory springs in place. Upgraded springs may actually lessen the tire pressure
increase necessity.

At the other end of the spectrum is my '66 GT where NOTHING is stock in the
suspension. Bridgestone Potenza's with stiff sidewalls are way different than
50 year old bias ply 14 technology. Tire pressure are nowhere near what the
Ford shop manual suggests.

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Old 07-17-2019, 01:04 PM
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Here are pictures of proper valve install.
There will be 2-3 threads showing at the end of the valve--NOT SCREWED on all the way.
A properly install valve will not cause loose steering. If you have two threads showing--Leave it alone.

It is more than likely a worn out box. Adjustment helped---Be careful there. You pop the ball in the box not knowing where you are on high center setup, Drive it, box locks up on a nice curve at 60--Not pretty.
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Last edited by CHOCK; 07-17-2019 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:40 PM
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Check your front wheel bearing to make sure they are not loose?
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:41 AM
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I've had plenty of Power Steering on Classic 60's-'70's Fords and GM products. The GM Power Steering units and design were far superior to Ford's. The Ford units were "OK"... The GM's units were Excellent. With a Ford, I choose not to have Power Steering if I have the choice....if it happens to be there...then that's OK too..

Curious though, I've never driven one of the newer Borgson Power Steering units that they now sell as Power Steering "Add-ons". I'm curious as to how they would feel. They have to be superior to the original Ford PS units...That much is for sure.

)

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Old 07-18-2019, 05:04 AM
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I will be having Dan at Mustang Barn do a Borgeson conversion on a freshly reconditioned 66 GT in just a couple of weeks. I will check back to the thread after that to give an opinion on the difference and changes from a manual system.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I am showing 8 1/2 threads on the drag link left, I tried to post a picture but could not get it to work properly, the end of the drag link should be up against the ball socket inside the valve where the ball/stud is in order to keep the stud from moving back and forth too much before engaging the actual valving , this is the reason for making sure it goes back in the same place when removing to rebuild correct?? If someone else did NOT screw the control valve back where it is supposed to be or did not take a measurement before installing a new one then the adjustment would not be proper allowing excessive play. Does this sound reasonable?? Unfortunately I cannot find anyone that knows anything about these other than taking one off and installing it back to where it was in the first place. https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/a...715764&thumb=1
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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After watching the CJ Pony video on this valve R&R much of my previous thinking is incorrect, the inner sleeve has nubbs on the inside to keep the ball socket in place on the drag link side, just going to order a new control valve and quit screwing around.
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