Brake pedal support question. - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:12 AM
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As noted, all 65-66 pedal supports the same auto or manual. Roller kit while out is most practical upgrade imho, takes little time to do.
Brake pedal pad will need to be cut down on the left side for clutch pedal clearance.
If you are going an original style, “3 fingered” , clutch set up you need the clutch pedal spring assembly which is easer to install while car is apart. The spring assembly should not be employed with a modern diaphragm clutch setup and thus you could install later without much of an issue.
If you are buying a complete pedal support assembly for your 66, note there is a difference in how the brake light switch is mounted. A 65 unit will work in a 66 but will need some modification.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneckgearhead View Post
Pull and it and add the roller bearing kit.
Agreed. Very good mod.

https://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 02:11 PM
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good to know

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Originally Posted by BlakeTX View Post
I have a brake/clutch assembly I bought years ago at the Charlotte swap meet at the speedway. I need to get some bearings and put in it before I forget and install it.

Get off my back, get out of my pocket....

1965 2+2 painted (66) Vintage Burgundy, 1998 roller 5.0 with GT40P heads, plans are for Sniper, T5 and 3:55 rear.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 02:18 PM
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'65 and '66 used the same exact Brake pedal Supports.....obviously just the pedals were different and the manual brake pedal setup had a few things added.. but the main support is the same and you can use it for either setup...


PS: I was thinking about doing the roller bushing setup on both of my cars... Is the Scott Drake kit the best one out there to use...or are better ones available??

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
'65 and '66 used the same exact Brake pedal Supports.....obviously just the pedals were different and the manual brake pedal setup had a few things added.. but the main support is the same and you can use it for either setup...





PS: I was thinking about doing the roller bushing setup on both of my cars... Is the Scott Drake kit the best one out there to use...or are better ones available??



)



Tony K.


I can’t say about Scott drake, I did the mustang Steve kit when I converted to the T5 and used his cable clutch kit too. I loved it, little welding involved, but very easy to install. Love the smoother and easier pedal.


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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
I was thinking about doing the roller bushing setup on both of my cars... Is the Scott Drake kit the best one out there to use...or are better ones available??
The Mustang Steve kit uses sealed bearings, but requires welding, and comes at higher cost. The Drake kit uses unsealed rollers, which should actually last forever, since the bearing rotates at extremely low rate, and not exposed to road dirt. I have even installed the Drake kit without removing the pedal support. As the Drake kit uses the clutch pedal shaft as the inner race of the bearing, it must be perfectly smooth. They do have a version of the kit that includes a new pedal shaft.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 03:57 PM
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Great, another decision I need to make.....

Get off my back, get out of my pocket....

1965 2+2 painted (66) Vintage Burgundy, 1998 roller 5.0 with GT40P heads, plans are for Sniper, T5 and 3:55 rear.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 06:23 PM
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 12:51 PM
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You've seen this clutch pedal add on kit for auto to manual conversions right? I second the weld-in big sealed bearings clutch pivot like Mustang Steve or Opentracker racing.

Dynacorn Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly 1965-1966 Mustang | Clutch Pedal & Rod | Pedal to Clutch Linkage | Drivetrain | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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I plan on adding roller bearings as well...and a hydraulic clutch for that matter(though none of that Modern Driveline nonsense, far easier and better for me to build my own system) but the roller bearings add more delay...so the brake support goes back in temporarily(at least until the cowl is back in place)
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fishfreq View Post
You've seen this clutch pedal add on kit for auto to manual conversions right? I second the weld-in big sealed bearings clutch pivot like Mustang Steve or Opentracker racing.

Dynacorn Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly 1965-1966 Mustang | Clutch Pedal & Rod | Pedal to Clutch Linkage | Drivetrain | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com

Yes...that would be ideal...except for the fact its out of stock. Hopefully it will be back in stock by the time I am ready.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:46 PM
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Yes...that would be ideal...except for the fact its out of stock. Hopefully it will be back in stock by the time I am ready.
CJ PP's has em too. I haven't done the sealed bearing pivot yet but it's on my short list. SOO sick of squeaky clutch pedal pivots...

Why is it that a pedal with a diaphragm clutch SHOULD NOT have a return spring? I don't get it? I like to feel the pedal lift up and release the t/o bearing completely.

I've heard guys say with a diaphragm clutch the t/o bearing should have a little 'preload', in other words, ride, and even put pressure on the fingers?? How can that work over the long run? Not getting full clamp pressure? Not enough throw in the hydro slave?? WTH?
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishfreq View Post
CJ PP's has em too. I haven't done the sealed bearing pivot yet but it's on my short list. SOO sick of squeaky clutch pedal pivots...

Why is it that a pedal with a diaphragm clutch SHOULD NOT have a return spring? I don't get it? I like to feel the pedal lift up and release the t/o bearing completely.

I've heard guys say with a diaphragm clutch the t/o bearing should have a little 'preload', in other words, ride, and even put pressure on the fingers?? How can that work over the long run? Not getting full clamp pressure? Not enough throw in the hydro slave?? WTH?
I dont actually know. I do know that every time I have converted to a hydraulic clutch in a vehicle I haven't used a return spring though, never had an issue from it...maybe the TOBs are designed to use the preload as a lubrication method?
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fishfreq View Post
Why is it that a pedal with a diaphragm clutch SHOULD NOT have a return spring?
The clutch pedal spring is not a return spring. It is an assist spring. Once the pedal passes the apex, it helps pull the pedal down, making it easier to press the clutch on the old mechanical z-bar setup. Hydraulic doesn't need the help.

At least this is how I understand it.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:37 AM
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I used the Mustang Steve kit, and god God what a difference!
It's easy to install and the directions are very good.
My pedal assembly is out of the car, and it's so smooth you won't believe it!
Money well spent.
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