Engine and Car Vibration About To Do Me In! - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Engine and Car Vibration About To Do Me In!

At my wits end right now...

Here's the story... 1967 Mercury (basically mustang) Cougar.

Frame off restoration, 12,000 miles on it.
Very mild build 302, 280HP.
New/Stock suspension, all disc brakes (SSBC).
C4, 3.55 rear.
Had some mild vibrations and certain RPMs, but was somewhat bearable.


So I decided to go with the T5 swap and upgrade manual brakes to disc brakes.
Went with Modern Driveline, hydraulic clutch, lines, master, flywheel, etc.
New driveshaft built by local reputable drive shop. Balanced it as well.

Did the swap, did the brakes, all is working.

Yet now, I have a pretty good shudder at 4,000 rpms and up and it's not fun.
It seems to be there when in neutral and revving, but hard to tell.
When driving under load, very obvious, and when push in clutch at that time, it's still is there, but can't quite be felt nearly as much.
Can feel is in floor boards, through pedals, and ***.
Driving around mildly, not there.

I tried disconnecting the new power brake booster, no change.
Checked timing, messed with it, etc., no change.
I did find two male plugs going into the dizzy cap that were bad and cracked. Fixed them and it runs better, but no change to shudder.
Swapped out old harmonic balancer for new, no change.

I'm now at a loss. Talked to Modern Driveline, they said to check u-joints being in straightly, they are.
I thought it was only engine as it seems to be there when revving, but not noticeable if it is, yet it's not there is under load (which it is present when under loan) and it lessens dramatically when pushing clutch in.

With rear jacked up, and revving up, not as noticeable, but still there.

Differential angle or drive train angle?
Bad plugs or wires?
?

'65 Mustang Coupe (Restored years ago..._
'05 Factory Five Racing Roadster (C*bra Replica)
'67 Cougar (Work in progress)
And multiple other ford projects...

Last edited by Brian F; 07-09-2019 at 09:04 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:15 PM
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Pinion angle ?wrong flywheel ?
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:16 PM
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Do you have the correct flywheel?

69 Mach One, 428CJ, 5 Speed, 3.91's.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:03 PM
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Sounds like pinion angle/alignment but are you absolutely positive the driveshaft yokes are correctly phased?

Bart

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 10:21 PM
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Trans mount?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 11:43 PM
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My two cents. I think it has something to do with when you did the clutch conversion. Throw out bearing? Flywheel?

And then my "out in left field" question....motor mounts ok?
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:52 AM
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I currently have a vibration in a 68 coupe,

Only on acceleration and not deceleration. Let off gas pedal and it stops.

Suggestions from my trans guy (who could have just said, "send it to me to rebuild" : (its a C4 BTW)
1) Trans mount
2) something contacting frame or other body part on the car
3) flexplate/flywheel incorrect style

He was sure mine was not trans related. hope that helps in some way.

Best of luck with your search for a solution
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Sounds like pinion angle/alignment but are you absolutely positive the driveshaft yokes are correctly phased?
How do I check that they are phased correctly?

'65 Mustang Coupe (Restored years ago..._
'05 Factory Five Racing Roadster (C*bra Replica)
'67 Cougar (Work in progress)
And multiple other ford projects...
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Pinion angle ?wrong flywheel ?
Pretty certain it’s the correct flywheel from Modern Driveline.
I’ll go check engine code again and give them a call.

'65 Mustang Coupe (Restored years ago..._
'05 Factory Five Racing Roadster (C*bra Replica)
'67 Cougar (Work in progress)
And multiple other ford projects...
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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I checked engine mounts and they were good.

Can’t see anything contacting the frame or tunnel, but will triple check.

It doesn’t seem to lose power when it happens.

I’ll definitely check pinion angle if I can remember how to do it...

The trans mount is the conversion from Modern Driveline.

I’m pretty sure throw out and clutch is in there correctly, but will have a trans shop I know take a look if possible.

'65 Mustang Coupe (Restored years ago..._
'05 Factory Five Racing Roadster (C*bra Replica)
'67 Cougar (Work in progress)
And multiple other ford projects...
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM
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So I decided to go with the T5 swap
?
There is your answer, this happened after this change, no?...driveline and/or pinion angle. It doesnt matter how reputable a company is...I have found out the hard way that even if they swear up and down a crossmember was made for the application that "should" put the output shaft art the correct angle doesn't mean it does. There are other factors involved such as transmission mounts, motor mounts, who knows what else. The first thing I would doe is slap an angle finder on the rear pinion flange and on the output shaft of the transmission and see what you are really looking at. I once received a swap crossmember that was so completely wrong that I just built my own from scratch to ensure the correct angle(or at least be close enough to be able to shim as needed.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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The first thing I would doe is slap an angle finder on the rear pinion flange and on the output shaft of the transmission and see what you are really looking at.
Car has to level for this... what's best way without lift? Jack up front/rear equally? I've done this before, but it was for a vehicle without a shell on it, easy to access the rear diff and output then.

'65 Mustang Coupe (Restored years ago..._
'05 Factory Five Racing Roadster (C*bra Replica)
'67 Cougar (Work in progress)
And multiple other ford projects...
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:16 PM
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without a lift? Personally I just crawl under there and remove the driveshaft...you are able to reach what you need without lifting the car up at all. If you feel you need more room and need to lift it, jack it up and put it on 4 jack ramps...or if you have a buddy with a drive on lift, borrow it for about an hour.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:05 PM
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Check that the rear ujoint is properly seated in the 3rd member yoke tabs on the side and that the ujoint cups are the correct size for the yoke cups. The car doesn't have to be level, just sitting on the suspension as you are measuring the angle between the trans output shaft and the rear end yoke. You could be on a hill for all it matters. A quick easy thing to do is loosen the trans mount and shove some thick body shims in between the trans and the mount, take it for a drive to see if that makes it better, worse, or the same. That may help you correct a driveline angle issue.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked93gs View Post
without a lift? Personally I just crawl under there and remove the driveshaft...you are able to reach what you need without lifting the car up at all. If you feel you need more room and need to lift it, jack it up and put it on 4 jack ramps...or if you have a buddy with a drive on lift, borrow it for about an hour.
depends on ride height and how ,um ,er much belly is in the way not happening with me and my car.
I normally put the front wheels on ramps and jack up the back by the diff


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