1966 Coupe Restomod - Vintage Mustang Forums
 6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
1966 Coupe Restomod

So I posted other threads where replys provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe
289 swapped for a 302
3-speed swapped for a C4
Edlebrock performer manifold
Edlebrock 1406 carb
Stock exhaust manifolds
Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!)
15" US Mags
Probably 3-4 paint jobs
Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there)
Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.)
Interior pretty thrashed

I'll probably add other items to the list as the thread progresses.

So here's a question to start this thread off...

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?
1966Stangman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 12:23 PM
Dimples
 
BlakeTX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 3,327
Garage
For seats, you're going to have to check the usual places for used parts. Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, swap meets. Maybe ebay, but shipping would probably be tough on those.

The anvil of reality.
BlakeTX is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 02:51 PM
Senior Member
 
BigKoppa's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Saint Louis
Posts: 240
I have a driver's side seat bottom that I replaced last year. My understanding is that the PO swapped seats between my car and a K code that the prior PO had driven 'enthusiastically'.

The frame where the seatback adjuster screw was is a bit out of shape.

PM me if you're interested.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Seat bottom 1.jpg (25.3 KB, 209 views)
File Type: jpg Seat bottom 2.jpg (22.3 KB, 209 views)

1966 Sprint 200
Mostly stock

BigKoppa is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
So I'm starting to make a list of stuff I'll need for the restomod. Its getting pretty long. One question is the differential. According to the data plate I have code 6 rear axle, which is 2.80 open diff. Looking at different vendors I haven't been able to find ring and pinion gear sets for a 2.80. Are there vendors out there that I haven't found that offer this ring and pinion gear ratio set or do I need to go to a different ratio? Should I go to a different ratio? I don't plan on street racing it but I would like it to be a little quicker off the line but also with a decent RPM at cruising speed. All advice is welcomed and appreciated!!
1966Stangman is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 10:14 PM
Senior Member
 
myfirstcar66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Auburn University, Alabama
Posts: 1,341
Garage
I have 3 cars with the 2.80 rear and even with that it would be nice to have overdrive at 70-plus mph. Since the 1st gear on the C4 is steep enough, they get off the line okay, pass well, cruise great and they don't kill me in gasoline $ .
I am thinking about swapping one to a 3.00:1 locker I have.

My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Dealer A/C • Console
•Dual Exhaust • Power Steering

Younger son's 1st car...
'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory A/C •Console
WAITING FOR RESTORATION

myfirstcar66 is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
so...looking at suspension and steering replacement what is the consensus on Grab-a-Trac from Mustang Plus? I'm looking at their Front sus kit, spring kit, and steering kit. Combining those kits is the ceapest I could find. Any other thoughts and/or suggestions??
1966Stangman is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Grabber70Mach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 1,996
I would talk to and consider Opentracker (John or Sherri) or Street or Track (Shaun). They both deal in quality products that are a couple of notches above what the others sell.
Opentracker and Badbenz94 like this.
Grabber70Mach is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:33 PM
Senior Member
 
New2me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 526
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966Stangman View Post
so...looking at suspension and steering replacement what is the consensus on Grab-a-Trac from Mustang Plus? I'm looking at their Front sus kit, spring kit, and steering kit. Combining those kits is the ceapest I could find. Any other thoughts and/or suggestions??
I think the Grab-a-trak stuff is ok. I'm currently using their UCAs, LCAs, gt coils, and sway bar. They've probably been on for about ten years and probably 10k miles and I don't have any complaints with them. I don't know what brand of steering stuff they use but I went with Moog and Mcquay/Norris tie rod ends and a roller idler arm from opentracker when I rebuilt my steering. All together the suspension and steering stuff seem to work well.
Opentracker likes this.


Early 65
1998 5.0, fitech efi, holley in tank returnless pump
4R70W transmission with USShift quick 2 controller
3.00:1 8" open rear end
New2me is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:40 PM
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 860
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966Stangman View Post
So I'm starting to make a list of stuff I'll need for the restomod. Its getting pretty long. One question is the differential. According to the data plate I have code 6 rear axle, which is 2.80 open diff. Looking at different vendors I haven't been able to find ring and pinion gear sets for a 2.80. Are there vendors out there that I haven't found that offer this ring and pinion gear ratio set or do I need to go to a different ratio? Should I go to a different ratio? I don't plan on street racing it but I would like it to be a little quicker off the line but also with a decent RPM at cruising speed. All advice is welcomed and appreciated!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966Stangman View Post
So I posted other threads where replys provided me with great advice! But I want to begin using a single thread so I can easily find suggestions and solutions to my questions as I begin the process of the restomod of my Mustang. I've recieved advice on headliner, leaking exhaust/noisy lifter, getting it running, engine and tranny ID, etc. Thanks to those who assisted!

Some facts about my car:
1966 coupe
289 swapped for a 302
3-speed swapped for a C4
Edlebrock performer manifold
Edlebrock 1406 carb
Stock exhaust manifolds
Pretty poor dual exhaust system that ends at the mufflers right under the back seat (cough, cough!!)
15" US Mags
Probably 3-4 paint jobs
Pretty solid body with very little rust (floor pans are good except for bend where driver side floor board meets firewall - a little light showing through there)
Pieces missing (emblems, trim, antenna, etc.)
Interior pretty thrashed

I'll probably add other items to the list as the thread progresses.

So here's a question to start this thread off...

The seats are not original seats (newly discovered and maybe why they don't function properly). When I redo interior I want to put original seats back in. I know you can get kits to rebuild them but where is the best source to get original frames that won't cost me an arm and a leg?. Also - I ordered the seat extenders from Rebal Racing. Will they work on non-original seats? Should I wait to use them on original seats that will eventually go in?

Before getting ahead of yourself...a couple of questions:

1. Why do you think the seats are not original? The rails have studs that fit through the floor right? I mean, I have 67 cougar seats...they arent original, but the frames are identical and the can be re-foamed and re-covered to be original. Your seats may not be original, but that is fine as far as seat extenders go if they use rails with studs...but chances are your seats dont work right because the tracks/rails are in need of restoration.

2. You say the car has a 302 swap...are you sure you even have the 6 cyl 7" rear end? 95% of the time people will swap to a 8" rear when swapping to a v8 because even a stock v8 will eat a 7" in no time at all.

Last edited by wicked93gs; 08-17-2019 at 08:42 PM.
wicked93gs is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked93gs View Post
Before getting ahead of yourself...a couple of questions:

2. You say the car has a 302 swap...are you sure you even have the 6 cyl 7" rear end? 95% of the time people will swap to a 8" rear when swapping to a v8 because even a stock v8 will eat a 7" in no time at all.
The axle code on the door tag is 6 which I believe is a 2.80 open. The car didn't come with a 6 cylinder, it originally came with a 289/2v. Is code 6 axle a 7" or 8" rear end?
1966Stangman is offline  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 12:30 PM
Senior Member
 
wicked93gs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 860
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966Stangman View Post
The axle code on the door tag is 6 which I believe is a 2.80 open. The car didn't come with a 6 cylinder, it originally came with a 289/2v. Is code 6 axle a 7" or 8" rear end?
my bad, I read your post incorrectly and thought you said 6 cylinder rear end...not code 6. As to your question...I myself would go with a lower ratio...maybe 3.23-ish or 3.55-ish...but that is also dependent on the use of the car. I plan on going 3.73-ish on mine(I say ish because I can never remember all the ratios for the different rear ends..I think you cant get 3.73 for an 8"...its something like 3.8x if I remember correctly), its a daily driver...but since I rarely drive on the highway anymore and will have a T5 with a good overdrive ratio, I can get away with that without absolutely killing fuel mileage.
wicked93gs is offline  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: St Louis
Posts: 532
Garage
Suspension...do you intend to stick to straight lines or are you a spirited corner carver? If you stick with straight lines, stock UCA/LCA with roller perch and pivots along with GT spec springs is fine. I would also do yourself / alignment guy a favor and get adjustable strut rods. It makes adjusting castor easy.
If you're the former you may get a little more benefit from a coil over conversion. I have SoT's stock style tubular roller front suspension and while it does a great job, I do wish i'd spent the extra money on the coilovers. In fact, the front suspension in my coupe will get moved to my convertible and i'll be putting the coilover in the coupe this winter. Two different machines with two very different purposes.

For your trans / driveline questions...are you married to the C4 or do you plan to upgrade to an AOD or manual. If you stick with the c4, I'd go 3.23 depending on your tire size. It wont bump your RPM's much at cruising and will get you a little more scoot. You might also consider a traclok or trutrac. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
This is also the part where someone asks about your engine combination but, in looking at it from a high level, you're not going for balls out performance. Now, if you decide to rebuild the engine for more juice; gearing, transmission, tire size will play more of a roll. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
Verify if you have an 8" btw. If you do not, it's time to upgrade that. Either way, you can find 8.8's in salvage yards pretty close to run ready...might even come with discs.

You didnt mention what you intend to do about the chassis. I would add torque boxes to the front and subframe connectors. Cheap, fairly easy, and get a noticeable difference in chassis feel.

Lastly, have you thought about brakes? Disc brakes > drums. You can get a pretty reasonably priced kit from CSRP. Dont worry about discs on the rear.

Doing the above would make a pretty fun little driver imo and not 'break the bank'...depending on the size of the bank that is.
chaser012001 is offline  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
Suspension...do you intend to stick to straight lines or are you a spirited corner carver? If you stick with straight lines, stock UCA/LCA with roller perch and pivots along with GT spec springs is fine. I would also do yourself / alignment guy a favor and get adjustable strut rods. It makes adjusting castor easy.
If you're the former you may get a little more benefit from a coil over conversion. I have SoT's stock style tubular roller front suspension and while it does a great job, I do wish i'd spent the extra money on the coilovers. In fact, the front suspension in my coupe will get moved to my convertible and i'll be putting the coilover in the coupe this winter. Two different machines with two very different purposes.

For your trans / driveline questions...are you married to the C4 or do you plan to upgrade to an AOD or manual. If you stick with the c4, I'd go 3.23 depending on your tire size. It wont bump your RPM's much at cruising and will get you a little more scoot. You might also consider a traclok or trutrac. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
This is also the part where someone asks about your engine combination but, in looking at it from a high level, you're not going for balls out performance. Now, if you decide to rebuild the engine for more juice; gearing, transmission, tire size will play more of a roll. If AOD / 5 speed, go 3.70.
Verify if you have an 8" btw. If you do not, it's time to upgrade that. Either way, you can find 8.8's in salvage yards pretty close to run ready...might even come with discs.

You didnt mention what you intend to do about the chassis. I would add torque boxes to the front and subframe connectors. Cheap, fairly easy, and get a noticeable difference in chassis feel.

Lastly, have you thought about brakes? Disc brakes > drums. You can get a pretty reasonably priced kit from CSRP. Dont worry about discs on the rear.

Doing the above would make a pretty fun little driver imo and not 'break the bank'...depending on the size of the bank that is.

Excuse my ignorance, being new to the Mustang world, but am I to assume AOD means "automatic overdrive" or does it mean something else? How can I verify if my diff is an 8" or 7". I don't see a tag on the axle (i'll take a closer look today). Torque boxes and subframe connectors sound good - I can see where to order them but what about installation (I'm not a welder). I have disc in the front already but it is using the original MC. Is there something I can add to the MC to increase efficiency?
1966Stangman is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:52 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: St Louis
Posts: 532
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966Stangman View Post
Excuse my ignorance, being new to the Mustang world, but am I to assume AOD means "automatic overdrive" or does it mean something else? How can I verify if my diff is an 8" or 7". I don't see a tag on the axle (i'll take a closer look today). Torque boxes and subframe connectors sound good - I can see where to order them but what about installation (I'm not a welder). I have disc in the front already but it is using the original MC. Is there something I can add to the MC to increase efficiency?
Nothing to excuse at all! We all started somewhere.
The AOD is a later model trans that has overdrive. Really helps bring the RPM's down at freeway speeds over the c4 which is a 1:1 gear map at the top gear.
If memory serves, there are 2 dimples (one on the left, one on the right) on the rear housing if it's an 8.

Subframe connectors come in either bolt or weld in i think. Weld in would be better. The torqueboxes would need welded but, imo, they are well worth the cost. I do not know what a shop would charge to put them in but, if you have someone do it, weld in the subframe connectors as well.

For your mastercylinder, there's not really anything to increase the efficiency outside of messing with bores and strokes which i do not recommend. If you have a single bowl MC, I would recommend switching it to a dual bowl. With the single bowl, if you have a leak and run out of fluid you also run out of brakes. With the dual bowl, if you loose rear brakes the fronts would still work and vice versa.
Grabber70Mach likes this.
chaser012001 is offline  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
Member
Supporting Member
 
1966Stangman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
Posts: 61
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
Nothing to excuse at all! We all started somewhere.
The AOD is a later model trans that has overdrive. Really helps bring the RPM's down at freeway speeds over the c4 which is a 1:1 gear map at the top gear.
If memory serves, there are 2 dimples (one on the left, one on the right) on the rear housing if it's an 8.

Subframe connectors come in either bolt or weld in i think. Weld in would be better. The torqueboxes would need welded but, imo, they are well worth the cost. I do not know what a shop would charge to put them in but, if you have someone do it, weld in the subframe connectors as well.

For your mastercylinder, there's not really anything to increase the efficiency outside of messing with bores and strokes which i do not recommend. If you have a single bowl MC, I would recommend switching it to a dual bowl. With the single bowl, if you have a leak and run out of fluid you also run out of brakes. With the dual bowl, if you loose rear brakes the fronts would still work and vice versa.
Thanks Chaser!
1966Stangman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome