Sway Bar Questions - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Klutch,

Any thoughts on any of those manufacturers and the bushing linked to?

The Raybestos are in a closeout status which if I remember correctly the poly bushings and mounting brackets were something like sub $3. Total was $7 with shipping.

I know Raybestos is a good brake company and that's all I have experience with prior.

1965 Fastback Mustang
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289ci V8, 4-speed Toploader

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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I just decided to go with the Raybestos 1" bushings & new brackets from RockAuto. Figured it met the needs of what I was looking for. They'll be in mid-week next week and I'll try to get them installed the weekend they arrive. When I do, I'll take some follow-up pictures and post here as a comparison.

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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 05:46 PM
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One more thing to check... Are the bolts for your shock tower tops (and shocks) tight? If not, you will hear similar noises going in and out of the driveway.

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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garth66 View Post
One more thing to check... Are the bolts for your shock tower tops (and shocks) tight? If not, you will hear similar noises going in and out of the driveway.
Garth66, can you or anyone else for that matter provide reference points (visually) for me to know where these bolts are to check?

Do the bolts have a specific ft lbs to torque to?

Should the car be under load, as in, should the car be on the ground so that the suspension is under load to check?

Sounds simple enough to validate given I know which bolts I'm looking for.

Thanks!
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:20 AM
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I think he's refering to the shock absorber upper mounting bracket. The shock bolts to it and then it bolts to the shock tower.

Per the 67 shop manual the shock absorber to the bracket should be 10-15ft-lbs and the bracket to body should be 8-16ft-lbs.

Here's a picture from the shop manual of removing the bracket and shock to show what it looks like:
67-shock-bracket.jpg
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Did I mark the diagram correctly?

Did I mark the areas correctly?

Are these the suggested bolts & torque's that I should be checking against?

Thank you!
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File Type: jpg 67-shock-bracket_edited.jpg (52.4 KB, 116 views)

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:16 AM
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The upper ball joints are the "load bearing" joints...the lowers are sort of "just along for the ride". Agree with Klutch about popping noises usually associated with a worn ball joint(s). Sway bar bushings typically squeak and your photos look good. I'd check the upper ball joints for play... remember, you want to jack the car by the SUBFRAME, not the lower control arm, to take the weight off the suspension. Do this for greasing the joint(s), too.

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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 10:48 AM
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Yup, these are the points I was referring to!


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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
The upper ball joints are the "load bearing" joints...the lowers are sort of "just along for the ride". Agree with Klutch about popping noises usually associated with a worn ball joint(s). Sway bar bushings typically squeak and your photos look good. I'd check the upper ball joints for play... remember, you want to jack the car by the SUBFRAME, not the lower control arm, to take the weight off the suspension. Do this for greasing the joint(s), too.
what is a good test for the upper ball joints? the car is already jacked up and supported by the sub-frame. I know the pictures may not show it well but it is.
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ricer333 View Post
what is a good test for the upper ball joints? the car is already jacked up and supported by the sub-frame. I know the pictures may not show it well but it is.
Raise the wheel about 4-6 inches off the ground and place a large pry bar under the tire. Pry up and observe movement at the joint. Horizontal movement must not exceed .25" as measured using a ball joint checking tool.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 01:06 PM
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Little late, but I used open end wrenches to determine the diameter of my sway bar. The correct size will fit snug with no rattle.

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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
Raise the wheel about 4-6 inches off the ground and place a large pry bar under the tire. Pry up and observe movement at the joint. Horizontal movement must not exceed .25" as measured using a ball joint checking tool.
Been awhile since I've seen that spec.
1/16 caused us to consider a conversation with the customer. 1/8 was too much no matter what (in our world)....
it was universal automatic replacement time. 1/4" would have been considered component failure. That's a big number.

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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GT289 View Post
Been awhile since I've seen that spec.
1/16 caused us to consider a conversation with the customer. 1/8 was too much no matter what (in our world)....
it was universal automatic replacement time. 1/4" would have been considered component failure. That's a big number.

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So I just looked back at my records, when the mechanic did the shelby 1" drop he replaced the upper ball joints as well as replacing the lower control arms that have the lower ball joints part of that assembly.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus View Post
I think he's refering to the shock absorber upper mounting bracket. The shock bolts to it and then it bolts to the shock tower.

Per the 67 shop manual the shock absorber to the bracket should be 10-15ft-lbs and the bracket to body should be 8-16ft-lbs.

Here's a picture from the shop manual of removing the bracket and shock to show what it looks like:
Attachment 715844
I have a Newton Meter torque wrench. I set it to 14.7 NM which by the conversion is 10.84 ft-lbs. Three of the four strut to bracket bolts seem to tighten up but one on the driver's side just spins (the back one towards the firewall). As for the bolts that hold the bracket to the shock tower, two of those on the same driver's side won't tighten up.

The car is up on jack stands with the tires off the ground. Should this be done when the suspension is under load?

If not, sounds like I need to look into replacing (at a minimum) the driver's side strut bracket and bolts

1965 Fastback Mustang
Rangoon Red
289ci V8, 4-speed Toploader

Last edited by ricer333; 07-21-2019 at 08:59 AM.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 09:08 AM
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Usually bad ball joints show themselves when you hit potholes, you get a clunk. Looks like you need sway bar mounts, Also, if you set the right socket on the ledge under the upper control arm and lift the car just enough to unload the spring but just before tire lifts of the ground you can wiggle the tire and feel the ball joint. They all look new to me, I would focus on the sway bar mounts.



You can try loading the suspension to see if it seats the bolts that spin but its likely they need replacement. Sometimes you can wedge a screwdriver under the bold and pry upwards to hold the bolt while you tighten the nut.



Good luck,


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