Pricing Guidance - 1965 GT A-Code Coupe - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Pricing Guidance - 1965 GT A-Code Coupe

All,

Was wondering if you call could help me. I have a 1965 GT A Code Coupe with a 289, four speed, and disc brakes on the front. For the most part this car is stock and, according to receipts from the previous owner, he restored it many years ago. I purchased the car about three years ago with the intention of doing some light restoration, but family and work obligations currently have all my time. The car runs well and looks great, minus a unpainted hood scoop the owner put on. The most major issue with the car is typical Mustang rust in the seat pans. The trunk is clear of rust as are the quarters. In order to sell this car honestly, I took out all the carpets to take pictures and then put them back in.

So my question to all you is, if you could help, what is a fair price to list this car to move with relative ease and to find it a good home and owner? Moderators, if I am violating any terms of the site, please let me know and I will remove.

Thank you.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Some more, just to show the full scope of the floors. Thank you again.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 08:58 PM
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Would have to see more pics of the underside of the car...



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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 09:01 PM
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I'll bet $10K if it's a factory GT. That's probably the selling price for it out here.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 09:01 PM
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I would treat the floor pans with ospho after scraping the loose rust and let dry and then paint with rustoleum and make it look a lot better with min effort. Then advertise on ebay with min price of 15k and see where it goes. Wes
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 09:12 PM
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You didnt mention the cowl, thats a high dollar repair if needed.

When looking for the value of a specific model such as your A-code GT with a 4 speed, much of the value over or under a typical car of the same year and condition will be how much of it is original and what factory options are on the car.

Is the engine and all associated parts original to the car, including the transmission?

What options are on the car? Are the disc brakes factory or aftermarket?

Seems to me prices are all over the place lately. The economy is doing well and that increases prices. Around here that car would be advertised at 25k. Now what it will sell for is a different story, but I have seen many cars similar to yours for that asking price. They have also been advertised for months, so no takers.

One thing for sure on a vintage Mustang in any condition, if the price is right it sells overnight.


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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 12:03 AM
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I'll be an optimist and say I could make that a $30K car for a couple grand in parts + paint.
What its worth and what you can sell it for divided by the time factor, minus repairs -2,500 to undo the scoops, + 7-10K for being a GT+$12% for 4spd+ 8% for being White/red=

A case of the double edged sword of a desirable car. Its been modded so those that will pay extra for a GT don't wanna pay for the stripes, scoop, boy pedal covers and holes in the hood so subtract for that.
You get a bonus for being in the NE and only showing that much rust since it gets eaten at from both sides. I assume the cowl leaks some just because....Run a hose in the cowl and be honest, does it gush and flood the floors, sprinkle or just seep? $2-5K difference if the buyer actually checks.

I wouldn't start less than $20K. At Gateway or Streetside that would list for $25K+ even as is. If you need it CL for $17.5K FIRM to sell it this week.

Tell them if they want a White GT 4spd with red interior for less go buy that other one for sale! Which other one? Exactly! Fuggedaboutit!

You might even add a few K on top of that for the close to NY tax. Just remember its pretty hard to ask for more than advertised after a buyer wants it.

GL, hope you find a dreamer that only sees what it will eventually be.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 12:48 AM
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15k+ all day compared to what I’ve seen local coupes selling for in worse condition and not GTs

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 01:39 AM
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Here's my valuation and rationale:


I'm starting this value out as a solid #3 car, and working backwards - $25,000. Now for the demerits:


1) Floors, as you show, need work and they are in a state that will almost certainly suggest the car was rusty elsewhere, and was fixed - maybe fixed properly, maybe not. Unless you have receipts for body work, as a buyer I'd suspect the body has been repaired and the car probably had the usual rust issues at some point. The concerning part is that the floors were allowed to get so bad, meanwhile the body shell looks pretty good - that suggests a previous owner that may have cut corners for the sake of "the image" while not really paying attention to the needs of the car. -$4000. It may seem like a large discount, but:


A) Body work scares people, especially when you have parts that ought to be rusty, but look perfect, right alongside other parts that are in dire need of rust repair -its a weird dichotomy that's going to drive the price down, even if the body work was done 100% correct. You can add about $2,000 back if you have full receipts for the body work AND it was done by a shop....I don't mean receipts for filler, sheet metal and a DA sander.

B) Body work, welding / structural replacement is not in every buyer's wheelhouse, if fact I'd say most buyers wont have the skills or experience to weld up a floor, assuming they even have a welder and know which end gets hot. Its one of those things where there are fewer buyers able to do the work themselves, which means its also one of those things that buyers will outsource, and will factor those costs into their offer. Even if your buyer does have the skills (like someone on this board perhaps) they also know that is a scary floor to a lot of people, and so again, it gives them bargaining leverage.


2) Non-original parts. Its a weird thing, most of us will put aftermarket parts on a car - electronic ignition here, headers there, etc, but its another story when a nameless previous owner has done the work and made the decisions. I note older headers, some sort of electronic ignition, aftermarket valve covers, what looks to be an electric choke Edlebrock carburetor. Wiring and hose routing is a little chaotic - not the cleanest installation and again suggests non-standard components and perhaps not a lot of attention to detail upon installation. Collectively - this devalues the car on two fronts. First, the non-standard parts and typical replacements detract from the car's value in a general sense, you may find a buyer that wants a "hot rod" and originality will matter less, but even those buyers often prefer to do the hot-rodding themselves, as opposed to inheriting another owner's decisions. Second, the installation and wiring / line / hose clutter in the engine bay again suggests a previous owner that just wanted to add parts, and didn't really spend the time to do the work with care and attention to presentation. This would reinforce the idea that the previous owner was more interested in the image and cut corners for the sake of expediency. -$2000


3 - Brakes - You mention disk brakes, but that master cylinder does not look like a disk / drum master. It looks like the stock single reservoir drum/drum unit with a single line out. This is where my lack of mustang knowledge will be an issue, because for all I know, Mustangs with disks in '65 used the same master as the Drum/Drum system, but I've never seen that on any car, ever. If its supposed to be that way, ok. BUT, if its not, and indeed that is the stock single reservoir unit for drum / drum brakes, then 2 things are a problem 1) The disks are not stock, they are aftermarket, so the question becomes - which kit, who did the work, do you have receipts...and 2) They are not installed correctly - might even be dangerous, frankly. If I were the buyer, and if that master truly is the drum/drum version, that would be an issue....- $1000

4) Looks like the car lacks power steering and no power brakes. Not the end of the world, but buyers have gotten awfully used to their power everything, cup holders, voice command, nav systems, etc. Lacking these power assists may limit your market a bit - some people wont buy a car that doesn't have those things. Others will, knowing they can add them, but then factor that into their offer. Obviously a third set will be just fine with manual brakes and steering, so it wont matter. Still, 2/3rds of your buyers will either care and not be interested, or reduce their offer to compensate -$500

So, where do we end up: $17,500. Valuation assumes paint presents well from 20 feet, seals and weather stripping are present and in good order (not new, but good) tires are fair and the car and its systems are operational - all gauges, fuel sender operates, lights, heat, radio if equipped, no funky noises or weird "quirks" you need to explain....such as


- "yeah, it does that on left hand turns" or " The wipers work, but only when you keep the switched pushed in" or "Its always made that horrible noise, I just drive it".


Allan.

Last edited by Treozen; 07-15-2019 at 01:41 AM.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 09:20 AM
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If you are going to sell the car as a GT, assuming it is...be sure to take pictures of all items that document it as a legitimate GT and/or provide paperwork proving itís prominence.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 10:31 AM
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4 called me out...provenance is probably a better term used there, but you get the idea.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Treozen View Post
3 - Brakes - You mention disk brakes, but that master cylinder does not look like a disk / drum master. It looks like the stock single reservoir drum/drum unit with a single line out. This is where my lack of mustang knowledge will be an issue, because for all I know, Mustangs with disks in '65 used the same master as the Drum/Drum system, but I've never seen that on any car, ever. If its supposed to be that way, ok. BUT, if its not, and indeed that is the stock single reservoir unit for drum / drum brakes, then 2 things are a problem 1) The disks are not stock, they are aftermarket, so the question becomes - which kit, who did the work, do you have receipts...and 2) They are not installed correctly - might even be dangerous, frankly. If I were the buyer, and if that master truly is the drum/drum version, that would be an issue....- $1000
I have a '66 factory GT "A" code FB ( Wimbledon White w/ dark red interior ). That is the correct master cylinder, which would not have been power -- not available until '67 as an option. Dean

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treozen View Post
3 - Brakes - You mention disk brakes, but that master cylinder does not look like a disk / drum master. It looks like the stock single reservoir drum/drum unit with a single line out. This is where my lack of mustang knowledge will be an issue, because for all I know, Mustangs with disks in '65 used the same master as the Drum/Drum system, but I've never seen that on any car, ever.

Allan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66sprint200 View Post
I have a '66 factory GT "A" code FB ( Wimbledon White w/ dark red interior ). That is the correct master cylinder, which would not have been power -- not available until '67 as an option. Dean
To expound a bit further, both the drum/drum and disc/drum had the single reservoir master cylinder, however, the disk/drum master cylinder was larger.

Allen

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 66sprint200 View Post
I have a '66 factory GT "A" code FB ( Wimbledon White w/ dark red interior ). That is the correct master cylinder, which would not have been power -- not available until '67 as an option. Dean
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Originally Posted by Turnall View Post
To expound a bit further, both the drum/drum and disc/drum had the single reservoir master cylinder, however, the disk/drum master cylinder was larger.

Allen

Thank you both for the correction, learned something new.



Allan.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 10:16 PM
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Thank you both for the correction, learned something new.



Allan.
The larger single reservoir master cylinder for the disc (not disk as I typed earlier)/drum on the GT is one of the things to check for to see if it's a real GT. One of the easiest to fake as well...

I continue to learn as well, it's fun to me...

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