Pressure Plate Mounting - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Pressure Plate Mounting

Hello all, I have something of a dilemma. Iím trying to get my pressure plate mounted on the back of my 289 so I can put my T-10 in, and had some questions about the hardware.

IMG_5296.jpg
IMG_5297.jpg

The dirty bolt is the old one, obviously. The hardware store didnít have exactly the right thing, so I got two options. My questions are:

1. Which would you use and why?
2. How important is the unthreaded part at the top of the bolt?

I could cut the longer one and file it to the right size, but the unthreaded part is slightly longer than the original, which worries me slightly. However, if the unthreaded part is important, I donít want to use the bolts without one.

All input helps!

Thanks, Alex


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 03:46 PM
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Alex a auto parts store would be more in line with your needs. There are specific grade 5 or 8 ? bolts for this job. Brian
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File Type: jpg 65 Clutch Install 10.JPG (241.9 KB, 8 views)

5R09A 4 Speed GT Built 5/29/65
9T02R 4 Speed SCJ Built 9/19/68
Owner Driver Mechanic

Last edited by Brian Conway; 07-19-2019 at 03:57 PM.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Alex a auto parts store would be more in line with your needs. There are specific grade 5 or 8 ? bolts for this job. Brian
Mister Brian, I checked at two local auto parts stores before heading to the specialty hardware store. No luck! Thanks for pitching in.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Bump... hoping to get this thing done today.

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
Power Steering
All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:18 PM
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I would use the originals before a generic Grade 5/8 bolt. Flywheel/clutch bolts are a fairly high stress application. Also note that it's the correct length, so the pressure plate bears on the un-threaded portion of the bolt shank. You never want a sheer load bearing directly on the bolt threads.

'65 A-code coupe, T-10 4-speed, 8" 3.25 limited slip

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen_wilson View Post
I would use the originals before a generic Grade 5/8 bolt. Flywheel/clutch bolts are a fairly high stress application.
I agree, but I also forgot to mention.

Five of the six bolts I pulled off the pressure plate were normal, but one of them was threaded all the way to the top, like the new bolt in the pictures. When I pulled the transmission out, there was a broken lock washer in the bellhousing. I'm not sure where it was from. I'm just wondering if I can use the bolts that are threaded the entire length of the shaft.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:30 PM
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Well, I guess that depends on how great your need to get it together. Ideally get the proper bolts, you could probably get them in 2 days shopping online. If you have to throw it together, I'd at least use the 5 original bolts you have.

'65 A-code coupe, T-10 4-speed, 8" 3.25 limited slip
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:39 PM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...-size/4-7l-289

They have an option for next day Saturday delivery...

If you wait until Friday afternoon to have to have something, it cost more...ask me how I know.

The only other option is to rob from another engine if you have one or if a buddy has one, local machine shop maybe, etc...

Allen
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:45 PM
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Definitely would be worth the wait or reuse your old bolts.



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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 06:32 PM
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Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallguy View Post
Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.
Agree! My link is to the same bolt kit that @macstang posted and new is definitely preferred especially since I know this is a new rebuild...

Allen

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallguy View Post
Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.
Not turned, the bolt is Forged that way, or more accurately, the threads are rolled into the blank bolt shank. Turning on a lathe causes many micro-tears, which cause stress risers, weakening the bolt.

'65 A-code coupe, T-10 4-speed, 8" 3.25 limited slip
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:24 PM
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You need the bolts with the shoulder......

69 Mach One, 428CJ, 5 Speed, 3.91's.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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I did some wider searching and found a kit locally.

Yes, I drove 45 minutes each way and paid $13 for it Ah, the things we do for our cars.

289
4 speed
Rally-Pac
Bench Seat
Power Steering
All-around discs
Aftermarket A/C

And not nearly enough time

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by alex1965 View Post
I did some wider searching and found a kit locally.

Yes, I drove 45 minutes each way and paid $13 for it Ah, the things we do for our cars.
Beats overnight Saturday delivery cost!!

Allen

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My go fast build thread: Go Fast Build Thread
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