Carb Heat soak/ Vapor Lock - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Carb Heat soak/ Vapor Lock

Went on a cruise today with the Orange County Mustang Club to Arrowhead, CA. (5000 ft.) All went well until I decided to stop for gas before we started up the hill. Filled up and she re-fired fine, but after I pulled out of the driveway (in the middle of the street) she died. (not the first time it has done this) Wouldn't re-fire. Pushed it back in the driveway. I t hink it was flooded. Kept trying no luck. And ended up letting it sit for five minutes, and it FINALLY sputtered to life, coughing smoking, and running like hell.

Started up the hill and had no issues until we got to town and pulled into the parking lot, and then she dies again! Pushed it into a spot and left it till after lunch. Hour later, try to start, and almost gave up, because my battery was almost done. And she FINALLY fires again. Let run for a few minutes and then pullout.

Go MAYBE a half mile. Stop at a stop sign. And...she dies again. Battery is done. Someone stops and gives me a jump. And she fires again. Barely. I turned the idle up so that it won't die on stops. And we make it home. (after I turn down the idle once we get off the hill)

So I THINK its heat soak or Vapor lock (same thing) and probably the altitude to add to it.

My thoughts on a cure
1. Get carb checked ( I think the floats need adjusting. She will also Die on hard braking)
2. And extra gasket on the carb spacer?
3. Heat shield wrap on the fuel line.

Any other ideas?
Clothes pins? :0

sorry for the long post

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 10:38 PM
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How about a non-metallic carb spacer?

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT View Post
How about a non-metallic carb spacer?
not Facotry correct! ha ha
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 11:03 PM
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Non-ethanol fuel helps.
Having the correct steel line instead of rubber helps.
Making sure timing is right, and yes carb tuning helps.
I never found a phenolic spacer with a PCV port but my stock 4V spacer has been fine.
What kind of carb are you running?
A rebuilt Autolite 4100 solved my 20+ years of 4 barrel carb issues as soon as I bolted it on my stock iron manifold.
Also, choosing an intake gasket with metal that blocks the exhaust crossover or filling those on the intake helps.
How is your cooling system health? Automatic transmission coolers independent of the one inside the lower radiator tank remove that heat from.your coolant, too. And if your engine bay is really nice, you can pop that hood open for an impromptu car show when you stop, it lets some of the heat out and the people come like moths to a flame haha ! ! ! You can just watch from inside the watering hole in the AC
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstcar66 View Post
Non-ethanol fuel helps.
Having the correct steel line instead of rubber helps.
Making sure timing is right, and yes carb tuning helps.
I never found a phenolic spacer with a PCV port but my stock 4V spacer has been fine.
What kind of carb are you running?
A rebuilt Autolite 4100 solved my 20+ years of 4 barrel carb issues as soon as I bolted it on my stock iron manifold.
Also, choosing an intake gasket with metal that blocks the exhaust crossover or filling those on the intake helps.
How is your cooling system health? Automatic transmission coolers independent of the one inside the lower radiator tank remove that heat from.your coolant, too. And if your engine bay is really nice, you can pop that hood open for an impromptu car show when you stop, it lets some of the heat out and the people come like moths to a flame haha ! ! ! You can just watch from inside the watering hole in the AC
It is an autolite 4100, stock set up. With spacer.

Lines are factory stock, steel, except the small piece by the pump.

She didn't really get hot temputature wise all day, even in traffic
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 12:12 AM
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Any possibility there's junk in the carb and or a filter is clogged?

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Could be? I doubt the filter is clogged, it's not that old, and the original filters are so big! Could be junk in the carb, but it runs so well in every other situation.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:13 AM
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Is it possible that the problem isn't with the carb overheating, but maybe the coil or something electrical overheating?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:55 AM
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Altitude does make a difference. I had a similar problem when I lived in Boulder, went away when I moved to NY. I have an electric fuel pump so all I had to do was turn it off and the car would start again. The fuel would boil and flood the engine once I turned the engine off or it also happened on the track when I would run it hard sometimes. I would have to turn the fuel pump off for a second and the motor would stop trying to die. Phenolic carb spacer is the answer and in my mind the trade-off is simple.



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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 04:48 PM
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Make sure the fuel filter is after the mechanical fuel pump rather than before it. That seems to lessen the chances of vapor lock.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 04:53 PM
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My vote is fuel filter
Maybe you kicked something up or got bad gas when you filled up.

Cheap and easy to try.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 05:57 PM
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Perhaps add a fuel return line. I just finished doing this myself this weekend. I used a Wix fuel filter #33054 near the carb to provide the nipple for a fuel return line. I added a 1/4" nipple to my stock fuel tank to give a place to connect the return line in the rear. Here's two videos you can use to begin your research into this approach:




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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstcar66 View Post
I never found a phenolic spacer with a PCV port but my stock 4V spacer has been fine.
I use this spacer, stock Ford for a 428, on my 390 with stock iron intake under an Eddy 1906. I has the rear facing PCV tube. But a bit pricey. Don't see why it wouldn't work for a SB with the same carb bolt pattern.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spac...0001%26year%3D
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 07:03 PM
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As stated before altitude will impact you particularly when you go from basically sea level to 5000 feet. It may just need to be leaned out to balance for combination high/low altitude driving. If it's driving fine when you get it back home with no adjustments that's likely the culprit.

When was the last time that carb was rebuilt? I had that same issue a year ago including under braking but at a constant altitude of about 2100 ft. I rebuilt the carb and all is well. I can drive it at will in 110* desert heat. The spacer should help but I don't have one and haven't had an issue since the rebuild. I also had an issue with a worn dashpot that would abruptly allow dump fuel into the chamber when I let off the gas. See how it runs at home before you play parts darts.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkutz View Post
Could be? I doubt the filter is clogged, it's not that old, and the original filters are so big! Could be junk in the carb, but it runs so well in every other situation.
I had the same issues and it turned out it was the filter (it was also newer). When I cut it open it had super fine black particles that turned out to be from the fuel line, like i took a big shot of ethanol and it just had a chemical incompatibility with the rubber lines i was running. I ended up replacing all the rubber lines and the filter and never had another issue with that car.
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