Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
Do you have the shock tower braces? Is your lower crossmember tight? Without good support, everything in the front of these Mustangs can get pretty floppy, and that makes it really hard to get any good handling.
Above and beyond all that - do not use the original factory specs for alignment. They were for skinny bias-ply tires. Modern low-profile radial tires will show off any deficiencies in alignment. You want them very close to straight up and down, with less than one degree of negative (tops lean in) camber (1/2 or less would be much better for a street driven car). No positive camber. For manual steering, about 3-4 degrees of positive caster to help with high-speed stability and return-to-center. More will make your car harder to turn, as it'll want to go in a straight line. With power steering, run more. It'll also add a little bit of camber in turns, helping to brace and keep your tread flatter on the road. With insufficient caster, your car will be as wild as a shopping cart with two bent front wheels.
Toe in should be about 1/16-1/8", so when you are driving and all the slack is taken up, your tires are 'zeroed out' and perfectly parallel going down the road.
If you get the chance, do the Shelby/Arning drop. It is free, but it also corrects your steering geometry, reducing body roll, understeer, and improving handling significantly, all for a little bit of work with no new parts involved.
"No matter what you are, be the best one you can." -Abraham Lincoln
Last edited by Grimbrand; 07-23-2019 at 12:34 AM.