Can you use an accel coil with a Pertronix 1? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Can you use an accel coil with a Pertronix 1?

Furthering the saga, there is an Accel Super Stock coil (oreilly part 8140C) available to me. Can i use this successfully with my Pertronix 1 ignition? I will pick up a Pertronix Flamethrower coil in a larger city, but if this could get me back on the road that would be great.


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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:55 PM
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Depends on the coil's resistance. IIRC it should have 1.5 ohms resistance. Even a 3 ohm coil may work temporarily.

Accel 8140c has primary resistance of 1.4 ohms...should work ok.


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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:59 PM
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It should work fine. Basically all the Pertronix I is nothing more then a electronic version of mechanical points. As long as you use a ballast resistor you'll be fine with the Accel coil and no need to replace it.

Tom

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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have a resistor wire, if that's what you mean by ballast resistor?


Calamity Jane 1966 Modified Fastback - Driven semi-daily!
Wrecked and rebuilt even better
289 v8, 4-speed, 3.25 9" rear, goodies and stuff.

See my travel blog here for my adventures: http://mapandamustang.blogspot.com/
Over 50,000 miles of North American roads driven on road trips since 2014. More always in the works - stay tuned!

When I show up at a car show and my car is covered in mud, it's probably because I drove 2000 miles to get there
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:07 AM
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I don't have a resistor wire, if that's what you mean by ballast resistor?

Same thing basically. Some cars such as Chrysler's used a external resistor while others such as Ford used a resistor wire. Accomplishes the same thing. Running without the resistor will cause the coil to run hotter. Iti not going to adversely effect spark quality except if the coil fails from the heat but that will probably be quite aways off.
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:24 AM
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Kelly,

From Accel’s tech page

Excellent high performance replacement for import and domestic vehicles with canister type oil filled coil. Re-engineered windings for even higher energy output resulting in quicker starting improved throttle response and more high RPM power. Designed to work with Points style and Breakerless electronic ignition systems. Heavy duty black Alkyd tower provides in flashover in protection to primary terminals. ACCEL Yellow can. 42000 volts effective up to 6500 RPM 1.4 ohms on the primary

It doesn’t say if it runs on a full 12V or the 9V from the resistor wire. Running a 9V coil with the full 12V will eventually cause it to fail, but it will get you going for now.

Just found a pic of the coil and it has 12 Volt printed on the side. I think you’ll be just fine with it.

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:33 AM
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Alternatively, get a ballast resistor from the same oreilley's and wire it in. Nothing to it.
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4R70W transmission with USShift quick 2 controller
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:37 AM
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Kelly,

From Accel’s tech page

Excellent high performance replacement for import and domestic vehicles with canister type oil filled coil. Re-engineered windings for even higher energy output resulting in quicker starting improved throttle response and more high RPM power. Designed to work with Points style and Breakerless electronic ignition systems. Heavy duty black Alkyd tower provides in flashover in protection to primary terminals. ACCEL Yellow can. 42000 volts effective up to 6500 RPM 1.4 ohms on the primary

It doesn’t say if it runs on a full 12V or the 9V from the resistor wire. Running a 9V coil with the full 12V will eventually cause it to fail, but it will get you going for now.

The 1.4 ohms is going to reduce the voltage to safe levels for the coil for durability. Even if you added more resistance, it won't effect life adversely. Less resistance equals more heat which will kill the coil.

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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, well hopefully I can get this coil and get on the road, then detour over to Albuquerque which is apparently the location of the nearest available Flame Thrower coil. I don't remember what witchery was needed to make the Pertronix I and AAW harness happy so I prefer to go back with what I know works (or worked, rather).


Calamity Jane 1966 Modified Fastback - Driven semi-daily!
Wrecked and rebuilt even better
289 v8, 4-speed, 3.25 9" rear, goodies and stuff.

See my travel blog here for my adventures: http://mapandamustang.blogspot.com/
Over 50,000 miles of North American roads driven on road trips since 2014. More always in the works - stay tuned!

When I show up at a car show and my car is covered in mud, it's probably because I drove 2000 miles to get there
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2me View Post
Depends on the coil's resistance. IIRC it should have 1.5 ohms resistance. Even a 3 ohm coil may work temporarily.

Accel 8140c has primary resistance of 1.4 ohms...should work ok.
+1

From the 1281 ignitor1 instructions:
"The Ignitor ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 1.5 ohms of primary resistance on eight cylinder engines..."

Details:
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...s/pnx-1281.pdf
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 09:13 AM
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Kelly,
Get rid of the oil filled round coil and get a Ford e-coil for a 1985 Mustang 5.0. I'm using a stock Ford one but you can get an Accel 140012. It has flat spade terminals instead of studs. No resistor required.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 09:23 AM
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Yes, but use a ballast resistor (you can easily affix it to the coil mounting bracket).

If your original coil was an OEM unit or aftermarket unit using 1.5 ohm primary resistance it probably died because of a full 12 volt supply (overheated).

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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, but use a ballast resistor (you can easily affix it to the coil mounting bracket).

If your original coil was an OEM unit or aftermarket unit using 1.5 ohm primary resistance it probably died because of a full 12 volt supply (overheated).
The coil I was using was a Pertronix Flamethrower, which specifically states that it wants a full 12v without the ballast wire.

I doubt it died from overheating as it has been in my car for five or more years now! It has definitely seen many worse drives. However, I'm paranoid that the new Holley system managed to kill it somehow. But even that doesn't really make sense since I had driven 580 miles on the same day before it died. I'm hoping it just gave up.
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Calamity Jane 1966 Modified Fastback - Driven semi-daily!
Wrecked and rebuilt even better
289 v8, 4-speed, 3.25 9" rear, goodies and stuff.

See my travel blog here for my adventures: http://mapandamustang.blogspot.com/
Over 50,000 miles of North American roads driven on road trips since 2014. More always in the works - stay tuned!

When I show up at a car show and my car is covered in mud, it's probably because I drove 2000 miles to get there
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly_H View Post
The coil I was using was a Pertronix Flamethrower, which specifically states that it wants a full 12v without the ballast wire.

I doubt it died from overheating as it has been in my car for five or more years now! It has definitely seen many worse drives. However, I'm paranoid that the new Holley system managed to kill it somehow. But even that doesn't really make sense since I had driven 580 miles on the same day before it died. I'm hoping it just gave up.
Ummm, note the instruction sheet where it says to NOT remove the ballast or resistance wire if the primary resistance is lower than specified. With the ballast resistor/resistance wire the primary resistance should be at or near 1.5 ohms. Without the resistance wire your primary resistance is going to be at or near 0.1 ohm.

I don't think Pertronix is very clear about this value NOT including the internal resistance of the coil itself. The total primary circuit resistance, measured from the ignition switch "C" terminal to ground, with the points or trigger closed (coil being charged) should be around 3.0 ohms.

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly_H View Post
The coil I was using was a Pertronix Flamethrower, which specifically states that it wants a full 12v without the ballast wire.

I doubt it died from overheating as it has been in my car for five or more years now! It has definitely seen many worse drives. However, I'm paranoid that the new Holley system managed to kill it somehow. But even that doesn't really make sense since I had driven 580 miles on the same day before it died. I'm hoping it just gave up.
Ummm, note the instruction sheet where it says to NOT remove the ballast or resistance wire if the primary resistance is lower than specified. With the ballast resistor/resistance wire the primary resistance should be at or near 1.5 ohms. Without the resistance wire your primary resistance is going to be at or near 0.1 ohm.

I don't think Pertronix is very clear about this value NOT including the internal resistance of the coil itself. The total primary circuit resistance, measured from the ignition switch "C" terminal to ground, with the points or trigger closed (coil being charged) should be around 3.0 ohms.
But if you use the resistor wire you aren't getting the full 12 volts to the coil and ignition like the pertronix needs.
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