Oil Pan Gasket HELP - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Pan Gasket HELP

Hey all. Well I FINALLY got the trans pulled (blew out FMX, going to C4) out of my 69 Coupe 302, and much to my delight the small oil leak I was accumulating on the ground was from the oil pan and NOT the Rear Main

So obviously while I am here I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. When I bought the car it came with a full set of Fel-Pro gaskets, for the oil pan it has a the 4 piece (sides are cork, front/back are rubber) is this gasket ok to use? It currently has a fel-pro one piece blue one it it thats leaking... Should I be looking at a different one? Also I see people talking about using some sealant or silicone Where should I be applying this and which one should I use, there are so many choices haha! Thanks

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 01:38 PM
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Do you know the history of the oil pan? I replaced a couple of gaskets on my oil pan due to leaks, and then finally realized the the curves on the oil pan that go around the seal on the timing cover and the rear bearing cap weren't centered on the pan. I used both cork/rubber and the one piece Fel-Pro (which I really like) until I found the problem.

From what I understand, use the sealant/silicone in the areas where the gaskets transition from the rounded areas on the timing cover/bearing cap to the flat sides where the pan meets up with the block. What you choose to use is your preference.



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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 01:53 PM
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Hey all. Well I FINALLY got the trans pulled (blew out FMX, going to C4) out of my 69 Coupe 302, and much to my delight the small oil leak I was accumulating on the ground was from the oil pan and NOT the Rear Main

So obviously while I am here I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. When I bought the car it came with a full set of Fel-Pro gaskets, for the oil pan it has a the 4 piece (sides are cork, front/back are rubber) is this gasket ok to use? It currently has a fel-pro one piece blue one it it thats leaking... Should I be looking at a different one? Also I see people talking about using some sealant or silicone Where should I be applying this and which one should I use, there are so many choices haha! Thanks
I am not a big fan of cork gaskets, if cork is the only option for a gasket I will put on a pair of rubber gloves an use Ultra Black RTV or equivalent an try to push it into the pores of the cork an smear a thin layer all over the gasket, making it look like a rubber gasket once I'm done. Then I'll let it cure overnight and put the gasket in place. I have been doing this for years with really good results.

I like the style of gasket you mention and have had good luck with Fel-Pro so it's odd that it's leaking, I am more inclined to think the failure is from incorrect surface prep or operator error.

I would do the following.

1. Clean an scuff the block area an make sure it is 100% clean, scuffed with Emery Cloth, sand paper, etc., then degreased with brake clean on a rag an wiped on the surface, and wiped dry after that.

2. You didn't mention the type or age of your oil pan, but the sheet metal pans are notoriously over torqued an get warped. So take a straight edge an lay it lengthways along the flange that contacts the block, then take a feeler gauge an see if you can get any feelers to slide in any spots under the straight edge. I have had a lot of oil pans an valve covers that you could see daylight under the straight edge-no feeler gauge needed! If you find it warped you'll have to tweak, bend, pound, hammer an dolley, etc; till it's straight again.

3. Do the same surface prep to the pan mounting flange as you did the block. If it's painted or chrome I like to scuff up that surface till I see scratches in it, otherwise it seems like paint or chrome is to slippery an it makes the gasket squish in or out to much.

4. Some of the new gaskets have inserts so you don't over torque the pan an smush the gasket out, but others do not-so correct torque and the torque pattern is very important to prevent the gasket from being squeezed out of place and/or warping the pan.


5. I like to use a dab of RTV in the corners or seams of where two gaskets meet, or a drastic change in angle occur, such as where the main caps an block mate together. As far as brand of RTV, I like the Ultra Black and Right Stuff. There are other good brands out there as well, I prefer black over colored kinds. Seeing red or blue RTV I think just looks tacky in my opinion, and you can wipe off any excess black RTV an not even see it after your done. Anyway, I'll put a dab of RTV on the surface of those seams or drastic angle spots, then put the gasket in place, once the gasket is in place I'll then put a dab of RTV on top of the gasket above where I applied RTV under the gasket. Not alot is needed, usually a dab about the size of a pencil eraser is sufficient.

6. Before tightening I apply blue Loctite to the bolts, then torque to the correct amount and pattern.


Let us know what you find when you inspect it.

Last edited by teteacher101; 08-03-2019 at 01:58 PM.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 05:48 PM
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I like the felpro one piece.
Take a good look at where the leak is. It’s common for some oil to leak past the threads at the 4 larger corner bolts. Some thread sealer there will help.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the help! I guess I will grab another 1 piece and make sure the prep and pan are right! I’m betting that’s the issue.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well I picked up a new 1 piece gasket and some Ultra Black. Just finished buttoning back up and will check for leaks when I can fire it up!
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 09:05 PM
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Well I picked up a new 1 piece gasket and some Ultra Black. Just finished buttoning back up and will check for leaks when I can fire it up!
How did the gasket surfaces look when you took it apart and any warping on the pan mounting flange?
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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How did the gasket surfaces look when you took it apart and any warping on the pan mounting flange?
Surfaces were ok, I think the main issue was the pan. It was warped on the "back" side, right where the leak was of course! I got it lined up and I think sealed tight...

I did take some brake cleaner, a rag, and some 240 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the mating surfaces. So hopefully that helps!

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 07:15 PM
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How did the gasket surfaces look when you took it apart and any warping on the pan mounting flange?
Surfaces were ok, I think the main issue was the pan. It was warped on the "back" side, right where the leak was of course! I got it lined up and I think sealed tight...

I did take some brake cleaner, a rag, and some 240 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the mating surfaces. So hopefully that helps!
As long as you got it tweaked back into place that should do it!
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Well I guess I failed in this endeavor. I have about 60 mins of run time and 15 mins of drive time this past weekend and now I have leaks at the front and at the back... I am dropping the pan this week and will try again. If it fails again I think I am going to order a new pan and just eliminate that issue all together. Super frustrating...

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:15 PM
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I don't use a gasket. Permatex Right stuff and let it sit overnight. Been using that for a while (351C) but same type gasket you have. If something is tweaked it will make up for it. All the new cars use it.

Had the pan off a couple of times and it's not hard to remove, trick is drive a scraper in and apply slow steady pressure.

Larry
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:24 PM
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No oil leaks...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-88-600

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:45 PM
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I'm the "old school" guy.... if it worked for the factory then it should continue to work for me. Cork and rubber. Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to "glue" the rubber seals to the timing cover and the #5 main cap, and for the gasket to the pan and a "daub" where the rubber will contact the cork, let it set up, then more F-A-G between gasket and block and install. Don't overtighten the bolts.

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:52 PM
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My problem with the cork gaskets has always been torquing the bolts. When I have torqued them to spec, they have always split or squeezed out so much it created a leak. The Canton composite gaskets donít have that problem.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 11:19 PM
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UPDATE: Well I guess I failed in this endeavor. I have about 60 mins of run time and 15 mins of drive time this past weekend and now I have leaks at the front and at the back... I am dropping the pan this week and will try again. If it fails again I think I am going to order a new pan and just eliminate that issue all together. Super frustrating...
Well that's beyond frustrating! Double check it again with a straight edge, it must be tweaked still. Keep us posted.
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