Hey all. Well I FINALLY got the trans pulled (blew out FMX, going to C4) out of my 69 Coupe 302, and much to my delight the small oil leak I was accumulating on the ground was from the oil pan and NOT the Rear Main
So obviously while I am here I'm replacing the oil pan gasket. When I bought the car it came with a full set of Fel-Pro gaskets, for the oil pan it has a the 4 piece (sides are cork, front/back are rubber) is this gasket ok to use? It currently has a fel-pro one piece blue one it it thats leaking... Should I be looking at a different one? Also I see people talking about using some sealant or silicone
Where should I be applying this and which one should I use, there are so many choices haha! Thanks
I am not a big fan of cork gaskets, if cork is the only option for a gasket I will put on a pair of rubber gloves an use Ultra Black RTV or equivalent an try to push it into the pores of the cork an smear a thin layer all over the gasket, making it look like a rubber gasket once I'm done. Then I'll let it cure overnight and put the gasket in place. I have been doing this for years with really good results.
I like the style of gasket you mention and have had good luck with Fel-Pro so it's odd that it's leaking, I am more inclined to think the failure is from incorrect surface prep or operator error.
I would do the following.
1. Clean an scuff the block area an make sure it is 100% clean, scuffed with Emery Cloth, sand paper, etc., then degreased with brake clean on a rag an wiped on the surface, and wiped dry after that.
2. You didn't mention the type or age of your oil pan, but the sheet metal pans are notoriously over torqued an get warped. So take a straight edge an lay it lengthways along the flange that contacts the block, then take a feeler gauge an see if you can get any feelers to slide in any spots under the straight edge. I have had a lot of oil pans an valve covers that you could see daylight under the straight edge-no feeler gauge needed! If you find it warped you'll have to tweak, bend, pound, hammer an dolley, etc; till it's straight again.
3. Do the same surface prep to the pan mounting flange as you did the block. If it's painted or chrome I like to scuff up that surface till I see scratches in it, otherwise it seems like paint or chrome is to slippery an it makes the gasket squish in or out to much.
4. Some of the new gaskets have inserts so you don't over torque the pan an smush the gasket out, but others do not-so correct torque and the torque pattern is very important to prevent the gasket from being squeezed out of place and/or warping the pan.
5. I like to use a dab of RTV in the corners or seams of where two gaskets meet, or a drastic change in angle occur, such as where the main caps an block mate together. As far as brand of RTV, I like the Ultra Black and Right Stuff. There are other good brands out there as well, I prefer black over colored kinds. Seeing red or blue RTV I think just looks tacky in my opinion, and you can wipe off any excess black RTV an not even see it after your done. Anyway, I'll put a dab of RTV on the surface of those seams or drastic angle spots, then put the gasket in place, once the gasket is in place I'll then put a dab of RTV on top of the gasket above where I applied RTV under the gasket. Not alot is needed, usually a dab about the size of a pencil eraser is sufficient.
6. Before tightening I apply blue Loctite to the bolts, then torque to the correct amount and pattern.
Let us know what you find when you inspect it.