Z-bar, cable or hydraulic clutch. - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Z-bar, cable or hydraulic clutch.

Roller 5.0 going in, some version of T-5. Was 289 and C-4, so itís a blank slate. Most likely long tubes. So whatíre the quick plus and minuses?

Get off my back, get out of my pocket....

1965 2+2 painted (66) Vintage Burgundy, 1998 roller 5.0 with GT40P heads, plans are for Sniper, T5 and 3:55 rear.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:25 PM
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My 2 cents...
First, money was never an object in either that I chose.

I looked at the cable system, but, shy-ed away due to dealing with the routing, so as, to prevent it from getting burned by the headers. Besides, wouldn't look "right" to my thinking.

The hydraulic system although solving the "burn" potential, needed available space and mounting locations.

In the end, I chose a roller-ized version of "Z" bar for simplicity, the "KISS" premise, and more commensurate with a vintage look. There are HD units in the market that are very robust that, unlike the OEMs, tended to bend/break.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:09 PM
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FPA long tubes and cable actuated clutches go together like peas and carrots.


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'68 Mustang
347ci that has a lot of neat stuff in it
T5 manual trans, alum driveshaft, 9" w/3.70 gears
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
My 2 cents...
First, money was never an object in either that I chose.

I looked at the cable system, but, shy-ed away due to dealing with the routing, so as, to prevent it from getting burned by the headers. Besides, wouldn't look "right" to my thinking.

The hydraulic system although solving the "burn" potential, needed available space and mounting locations.

In the end, I chose a roller-ized version of "Z" bar for simplicity, the "KISS" premise, and more commensurate with a vintage look. There are HD units in the market that are very robust that, unlike the OEMs, tended to bend/break.
I agree, rollerizing the pedal shaft is important, but other than that a stock linkage will bolt in easily, work well in daily service for years. Far an away most headers are routed to deal with the stock linkage, and the roller pedal makes it much easier than in stock form. The Drake kit is the easiest, and woks very well. Steve's sealed bearing kit requires removing and welding the pedal bracket, but is even better.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by blueovalfan68 View Post
FPA long tubes and cable actuated clutches go together like peas and carrots.

FPA long tubes and Z-bar actuated clutches go together like peanut butter and jelly.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 07:06 PM
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z-bar

I just finished the installing JBA shorty header. I tried to using the stock style z bar with no success. I bought the JBA modified z-bar and it worked. The clearance on the JBA was measured in millimeters. you know what the say , clearance is clearance. I have heard that there has been good success using stock z-bar with some major brand headers. Sorry no experience with cable or hydraulic. I do know as mentioned above once you start changing from original it just snow balls.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 07:47 PM
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 08:03 PM
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Iím running jba headers and a cable clutch no problems 302 roller and a t5


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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 08:10 PM
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FPA Headers work with pretty much anything. I went with the modern driveline hydraulic clutch and itís as smooth as the clutch in my bmw. That said, if I had to do it over again, iíd Probably go with the cable for the sake of simplicity.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 08:51 PM
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I’m switching from C4 to T5 also.
Because I have never seen a complete installed z bar setup, I have zero idea how all those parts fit together.
Once I got my long tube headers installed and saw how impossibly close they would be to a clutch cable, I decided to go with hydraulic.
I chose the Daze hydraulic setup.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 10:24 PM
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My cable works like bacon and eggs... but I don't have headers. IMO, a cable would be easier to route around things you don't want it to touch.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Good info so far, pretty similar to when I did searches on this and got a message saying, "Stand by while we download the Internet". I do have a clutch/pedal assembly that I picked up at a Charlotte Speedway meet a couple decades ago, so I'll definitely rollerize it. I'm leaning towards a modernized Z-bar, just not very familiar with them and didn't know if the roller block had any quirks associated with them. What I'm really looking for is the setup that goes together like eggs over easy with ham and grits.....

Get off my back, get out of my pocket....

1965 2+2 painted (66) Vintage Burgundy, 1998 roller 5.0 with GT40P heads, plans are for Sniper, T5 and 3:55 rear.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFlash View Post
Because I have never seen a complete installed z bar setup, I have zero idea how all those parts fit together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russstang View Post
I'm leaning towards a modernized Z-bar, just not very familiar with them and didn't know if the roller block had any quirks associated with them. What I'm really looking for is the setup that goes together like eggs over easy with ham and grits.....
Now you're making me hungry.

The equalizer system is actually pretty simple. I could put it together in my sleep.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 09:00 AM
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 09:13 AM
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Be aware, If you have a roller 5.0 you most likely don't have the zbar pivot on the block and will need to buy an adapter. I have a 66 k code FB project I'm working on that I just installed a roller-ized Z bar from Barillaro Speed. With the zbar adapter installed, it does move the block pivot slightly closer to the frame rail, enough so in my case I had to pre-assemble the zbar with both the frame rail support and block pivot adapter on it and then install it as a complete assembly. I did invent some curse words but it all worked out. Also, if you use tri-y headers (which I am using), the lower arm on the zbar that operates the clutch fork will most likely hit one of the header tubes so some adjustment will be needed.
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