Grinding sound light dim when trying to start - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Grinding sound light dim when trying to start

The joys of buying a classic, (1965 Mustang Convertible inline 6) to the point that I am starting to regret the purchase which if very sad!

Now the car will not even start. there is a grinding noise, doesn't even attempt to turn over. the ALt light on dash dims, as do headlights, interior light (door open). The starter is brand new and the alternator looks new as well.

Is there a chance it could be the battery?
Thank you yet again!
G
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 10:10 AM
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Yes, I think the battery would be number 1 on my list of suspects. Always a good place to start. Put some jumper cables on and see if that wakes it up.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 10:57 AM
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Lessons Learned....Heed my advice...

For starters, With a Classic Ford, You NEED to start with these 3 basics, or your car will put you in the looney bin trying to diagnose it.


1. Make sure that you have a good Interstate or Exide made Battery or (Optima Red or Yellow if you want to spend the cash)....and quality Battery cables with clean connections.

2. Make sure that you have one of these for your Voltage Regulator......A High Quality Motorcraft or Standard Motor Parts Solid State Voltage Regulator. This will keep your car and your Alternator charging at its most op[timal level...all the time and is die-hard reliable....No archaic points used. Leave points for the distributor!

Buy one of these below...

https://www.npdlink.com/product/volt...0001%26year%3D

or

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mo...regulator,4884

3. Make sure that you have a Quality Starter solenoid. IMHO, This is one of the biggest woes of new Classic Ford owners... Using a Brand-X or other brand Solenoid (They are all trash) other than a Motorcraft, Standard Motor Parts or Original OEM Autolite starter solenoid will leave you stranded on the road somewhere or in your own driveway in no time flat. DO NOT use Repro Solenoids either (Also Trash). Classic cases of one of these starter solenoids going bad is the car still runs with the ignition key removed, or just does not start at all, or even worse, The starter stays engaged while the car is still running! I've seen that one too. So get a good one....Buy the one below..

https://www.npdlink.com/product/star...%3D1%26year%3D


Once you've done all three things above, You are NOW ready to diagnose your car. You say that you have a grinding noise. That could be the Flywheel and Torque Converter scraping up against each other.....or your starter solenoid is so cheaply made that its "crapping out" on you causing one of the conditions that I mentioned above.

The exact car that you own is a pleasure to drive and die-hard reliable if you do the right things and use the correct parts. I can vouch for that as I have two of them....A 1965 Convertible I6 and a 1966 Convertible I6.

Also, Do yourself a favor and pick up one of these too while you are at it.... It's always good to know that your car is charging...and/or Battery is good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-Volts-...IAAOSwRmNdQI87


Keep us advised on how its going....We're here to help. You could not have landed at a better place. The best advice anywhere! and it's 100% FREE!.....LOL!


)

Tony K.
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Tony Kovar
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1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
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Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-05-2019 at 11:11 AM.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 11:29 AM
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Also, Don't be dissuaded by your Classic car purchase, You could not have bought a better car/make/year. IMHO, Your Classic car over time will give you less problems than a newer car....and be a lot cheaper to maintain too. You just have to square things away on the car first. Don't fret, You'll get there. We have quite a few female Classic Mustang Owners on this forum and they all started out just like you when they started....and now they're pros!....lol...


)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001

Getting Ready for the 2020 Melbourne, FL MCA Nationals!

Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-05-2019 at 11:42 AM.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Tony,


Thank you for the awesome advice! This has always been my dream car and I have faith
I will look at those parts tonight when I get home and let you know what is currently installed. I don't mind spending more to ensure safety and longevity! I will take your advice and buy the battery as well just for piece of mind. Do you happen to have link to which battery is right for the car?
Many thanks and keep you posted! Loving this community here!
Gloria
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Is the Red or Yellow the best?
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 12:01 PM
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Gloria, Your Battery size is 24F. Without spending a million bucks, and getting a good battery for the car, Try and buy an Interstate 24F Size Top Post Battery at any local Interstate Batteries dealer near you. You don't need an Optima Battery...That is reserved for Heavy Duty High Compression engines...and drag racers!..It would be way overkill for your needs.

An "Interstate 24F Size Top Post Battery" will more than fulfill your needs...and should last you a good 6-8 years as well. Average price..$110-$130.00 It's prorated if anything ever goes wrong with the battery. Also, Please fill out the Area, State and location fields in your VMF profile.. Thanks!

Below, You can see where your nearest Interstate Batteries Dealer is located.

https://interstatebatteries.com/


PS: Just to answer your first question, Yellow.

)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001

Getting Ready for the 2020 Melbourne, FL MCA Nationals!

Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-05-2019 at 12:06 PM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Tried a jump start and nothing. Talked to seller and he says battery only year old. Either way for sanity I am going to replace the parts you suggested. The battery cables look rough so going to change those as well. Nod has heavy duty and economy version which would you suggest?

Many thanks again,
Gloria
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 09:37 PM
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It's possible that the starter isn't the right one for the car. Even though it's new that might be your only problem. Since you're getting a grinding noise that makes me think the starter is turning, it's just not turning the engine over. So it's possible you might just need a different new starter.

If you pull the starter out take a look at the flywheel gears that it engages with. It could also be that the gears are worn out, but it's more likely just a bad new starter.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 01:04 AM
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Sounds like a voltage issue considering all your lights go dim when trying to start. If the voltage is too low the starter solenoid (which is the plunger mounted on the starter that engages the starter drive into the flywheel, not to be confused with the starter relay that is mounted near the battery that sends current to the solenoid) won't fully engage making the starter just spin slow and grind.

Battery cables is probably going to be the best place to start and a easy way to double check would be with your jumper cables (assuming they are a quality heavy gauge set) try hooking the negative cable to the engine block somewhere and if that doesn't work, leave it there and then hook the positive direct to the square 4 post starter relay that is mounted on the inner fender right behind the battery. Hook it on the big post that the positive battery cable goes to. Doing those 2 things will pretty much bypass a bad connection at the battery. As mentioned above the relay itself can also be faulty. Might be further along the circuit than that, but it is an easy place to start. If they look bad they need replaced anyway.

Last edited by Matter; 08-06-2019 at 01:14 AM.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 01:26 AM
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If you are going to buy Battery cables, You might has well buy the correct ones for the car...

Buy these..

https://www.npdlink.com/product/batt...1965&year=1965

and the bolt kit for it as well...

https://www.npdlink.com/product/bolt...1965&year=1965


The complete, correct battery cable set is $60.00 from NPD.. You'll get it in a few days..

)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001

Getting Ready for the 2020 Melbourne, FL MCA Nationals!

Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-06-2019 at 01:30 AM.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you! Parts ordered...once they come in I will install and cross my fingers that its not the "starter" for that means it needs to be towed for not sure just jacking it up there would be ample room to remove and replace the starter.

Gloria
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Gloria Pearce View Post
cross my fingers that its not the "starter" for that means it needs to be towed for not sure just jacking it up there would be ample room to remove and replace the starter.

The starter on an I6 should be easy to change from the top side. The V8 starter requires you to go underneath with a ratchet, a couple of extensions and a 9/16" socket. Be sure to disconnect the battery first! The cable from the solenoid to the starter should be dead but why take a chance?
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 11:54 AM
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"The starter on an I6 should be easy to change from the top side."

I can verify that! Had one "short-circuit" on me me in a 7-11 Parking lot 20 years ago.... I was close to my house, so I walked home, Took another car, went back removed the old starter and installed the new one....never having even gone underneath the car... Piece of cake.. 3-bolts.....2 nuts...and its out!

Did a Post Mortem on the starter later on and one of the leads broke loose and shorted out the side of the starter.

)

Tony K.



Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001

Getting Ready for the 2020 Melbourne, FL MCA Nationals!
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Tony, Yah I was looking at the starter last night, looks pretty simple though not sure about lining up the new one and bolting it in So i have been reading that there are starters with X amount of teeth, if I did have to get one can you recommend one. I will receive the other parts tomorrow and will get them installed on Friday, will let you know how that goes. Thanks again, Gloria
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