1965 Alternator Upgrade. - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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1965 Alternator Upgrade.

I’ve recently started having a low voltage reading at night while at idle with the lights on. I have an electric fan, retro sound stereo and the Dakota digital dash. If I turn the heater on with the fan going, lights on, stopped at idle my volt reading drops to 10.9 and starts blinking. Jumps right back up while driving. I installed new battery, new belts, and a new stock alternator from autozone. Also put in a new solid state voltage regulator. Question is, would getting a higher amp alternator like a 100 amp boost up the volts at idle? Or running a smaller pulley on the alternator? If so do you guys know where I can get a higher amp 3 wire alternator or smaller V pulley for the alternator.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:59 PM
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I haven't installed it yet, but I bought this one a week ago: https://www.paperformance.com/95a-3g-alternator-1614e/

I also purchased this conversion kit: https://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 03:39 PM
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What diameter is your alt pulley?


1965 Mustang Coupe 289/C4
1967 Mustang Coupe 200/C4
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:56 PM
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Since you are already using Dakota Digital, I would upgrade to a 150amp one-wire internally regulated alternator. Simple to install, and you get rid of the external regulator and wiring. I just did this upgrade and it works like a champ. I also run Dakota Digital dash, electric fan, fuel injection and a small stereo. At idle, I am between 13.8- 14.0 volts.

Tim
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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I currently have a 2 3/4 pulley that came stock on the alternator.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:13 PM
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It's probably not your alternator, but your Voltage Regulator making you experience "Voltage drops". If you are still going with an OEM Points type unit...That's why. You need a "Solid State" Motorcraft unit...like below...

https://www.npdlink.com/product/volt...0001%26year%3D

or this one..

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mo...regulator,4884


They are the way to go.... Try one first before you start swapping out alternators..

)

Tony K.



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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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I had that exact one installed and replaced it for another new one to make sure it wasn’t bad.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 08:00 PM
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You may want to consider a 1-wire w/internal regulator. You would have to make some wire changes. I picked up a GM model 100 amp alternator. See Photo. I had to dill-out the the tab and make a spacer. Still have to install.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Alternator 1 wire.jpg (333.9 KB, 1 views)

SEH
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:26 PM
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If you decide to go with a 3G alternator and you want a less expensive way to get one, search on eBay for "Alt-1807". This should return a 95amp 3G alternator with a double v pulley. I have an Alt-1807 installed and it is working very well.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNA...kAAOSwPrtdMW7f
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:30 PM
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I would switch to a more modern Ford 3G alternator, small case at 130 amps should fit the bill. Would stick with a "3 wire" (output, exciter, ground) which makes for an easy hook up while still retaining your original alternator warning lamp, if used.

Bart

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 01:18 AM
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Another vote for 1 wire here. I went that route and never looked back. The most important part is to size the charge wire correctly. I found a 6awg "lawnmower power wire" at the parts store. It has eyes on both ends.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
I would switch to a more modern Ford 3G alternator, small case at 130 amps should fit the bill. Would stick with a "3 wire" (output, exciter, ground) which makes for an easy hook up while still retaining your original alternator warning lamp, if used.
Gotta agree with Woodchuck .... mostly.
One thing a 3g does well, is sensing voltage needs at idle. it does this best when the sense wire is run to the solenoid, instead of looping to the output. I saw a .5 volt difference.
So I guess a 4 wire hookup. I needed a ground also, probably cos I ceramic coated the case and brackets.

Last edited by 289vert; Today at 02:45 AM.
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