Pulling an FE 390 Engine w/C6 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Pulling an FE 390 Engine w/C6

I am looking for ideas.


My engine is frozen and have not been able to turn the crank to get to the torque converter bolts. I have pulled the intake exhaust manifolds and heads; and have been soaking cylinders with ATF/acetone (and a variety of other solutions) over the past several weeks...to no avail.


I plan on rebuilding (if not replacing) the engine and the tranny. Can I just pull the engine with the torque converter attached to the flexplate? I do have a hoist with a leveler. If I can go this route, what would you suggest as mounting points for the hoist now that the heads and manifolds are off? Or should I put the heads back on?


Any other ideas on freeing up the engine?


Thanks!
Bill

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:21 AM
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I have pulled and reinstalled my FE in my 67 a few times now in a variety of configurations (fully assembled with and w/o trans, no top end with trans, etc.) If the engine is locked up I am not sure you'l be able to release the torque converter from the trans input shaft, I think they lock on? (I don't have much experience with auto trans) Since you plan to pull the trans and rebuild, I would just pull them both together. When removing and installing the engine with the trans I have always jacked up the rear end of the car and put it on jack stands.

As for mounting locations for the leveler, since the heads are off I would use the head bolt locations. I did this with no issues.


Definitely remove the radiator if you have not already done so.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:33 AM
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fill the bores with evaporust. lowes has it.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I am learning as I go.

I bought the car as a complete restoration project and knew the engine and tranny were both going to be rebuilt or replaced. The PO indicated the tranny was locked and some of the linkage was disconnected so it would roll.

Radiator has been removed, along with oil pan, crank pulley, water pump, fuel pump, timing cover and drive shaft. Ideally I would like to remove the engine without removing any of the cross members for structural integrity. If I have to pull the tranny with the engine, I will have to remove that cross member...I am sure it will be fine, but there is a lot of rot under there and the gaps all look good now, so I want to take a ton of measurements before I remove too much structure.

Is it possible a locked up tranny would keep the engine from turning? Any expert advice on pulling engine with torque converter on a C6?
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:52 AM
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I wont say it's impossible for the transmission to lock up, but in almost 30 years working on cars, I have never heard of it. You can pull the motor out with the TC on (it only slides into the transmission), but I would be afraid of damaging the input shaft or TC in the process. If you get the car up enough the motor and tranny will come out together.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 12:10 PM
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You shouldn't need to remove any of the crossmembers to pull the engine and trans together. Just unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM4401 View Post
You shouldn't need to remove any of the crossmembers to pull the engine and trans together. Just unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount.

You need to remove the transmission crossmember. The one under the engine can stay.


I'd pull the whole mess together, it's alot easier to work on it on the garage floor, than under the car. Keep in mind that the center of gravity on the assembly will be much further back without the heads and intake in place. Make sure the hoist has enough reach get it where it's somewhat leveled. Since you say it's a complete resto project, probably woudn't be a bad idea to remove the bumper, valance and grille to give you more room.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:45 PM
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IF you end up pulling the engine with torque converter attached, remember the converter has trans fluid in it and the mess on the floor when it pours out can be a mess. Plug it or put a diaper on it.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Fortunately it froze with the drain plug accessible, so I have drained a lot of it...plus what was in the pan.

So, it sounds like I COULD try to remove with the torque converter, but risk damaging it. This may be acceptable given the fact the C6 is already damaged. If I go this route, do I just remove the bell housing bolts, get the weight off the engine using the hoist and slide the engine straight forward? What can I do to best avoid damaging?

As for the Evaporust, I am a huge advocate of that process, but have never tried it to loosen bonded parts. In order to”fill” the bores, I need to get the engine on a stand so I can turn it to get the cylinders vertical.

Thanks for all the input!
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 04:50 PM
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What's damaged on the c6?

Scott

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 05:31 PM
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Yes, you can remove the trans and leave the converter bolted to the flexplate.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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What's damaged on the c6?
To be honest, the extent of the damage is uncertain until I get it out and clean it up. But, it almost looks like the car was bottomed out, or at least hit something, and shaved/broke off the bottom of the bell housing. I really haven’t spent too much time looking at it, as my initial task was to get the engine out.

The one benefit of a dirty, grimy, leaky engine...most of the bolts are coming out pretty easy. I suspect the suspension, especially rear, is going to be a different story.

Fortunately I started this endeavor with the expectation it was going to take a lot of time, space and money. My goal is to drive a basket case “I” restored. For me, the restoration process and learning is the goal. I already have a car someone else restored.

Thanks again,
Bill
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 07:17 PM
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I am looking for ideas.


My engine is frozen and have not been able to turn the crank to get to the torque converter bolts. I have pulled the intake exhaust manifolds and heads; and have been soaking cylinders with ATF/acetone (and a variety of other solutions) over the past several weeks...to no avail.


I plan on rebuilding (if not replacing) the engine and the tranny. Can I just pull the engine with the torque converter attached to the flexplate? I do have a hoist with a leveler. If I can go this route, what would you suggest as mounting points for the hoist now that the heads and manifolds are off? Or should I put the heads back on?


Any other ideas on freeing up the engine?


Thanks!
Bill
I second most of the ideas here already. I would pull the combo out together, then pull the tranny off the engine leaving the torque converter on the flywheel. Have lots of floor dry an rags handy as it usually makes a mess!

Try whatever concoction you want in the cylinders, pop the oil pan off, crack all the rods an mains loose an see if you can get it to turn over.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:50 AM
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The engine and transmission can be removed and installed as a single unit as long as you have a load leveler attachment to your engine hoist. The front of the engine needs to be tilted up while the rear of the trans is tilted down. Putting the rear axle on jack stands gives you added clearance from the ground/floor. Since you are removing the engine with the torque converter still attached and not the entire trans/bell-housing assembly, you should have plenty of room. At some point the torque converter will need to come off for refurbishing/replacement if you plan to reuse the existing parts. While it is possible to do this single handed, it is much easier with an extra pair or two of hands.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone, for the input!

Hopefully I will have time to head to the shop to further assess. The car is on a lift and I also have 2 rolling jack trays....should be able to get plenty of room under it.

The engine hoist can handle up to 2 tons, and at the 1 ton setting, the swing of the arm is pretty wide...so should be able to get everything high enough to clear the radiator support. The hood, bumper, radiator, grill are all of the car.

I’ll let you know how it turned out...or, more likely, if I have other questions.
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